OK, I am going to buy an '88 se for $800, everything has checked out good except that when idling it will cut off after a few sec, but if rev'd countinously a little bit it will stay on. I drove it around like this and it ran fine, very strong. It only does this when at a stop or in neutral. Im hoping that it is just that it needs a new fuel filter. But I think that it could be that the injectors are clogged. What could be the problem? I am also buying a jdm engine from a friend for $300 his said that he thinks its and s5 motor (out of an 89, thats a s5 right?), but he is not sure. Can I tell just by looking at the engine? How?

 

The s5 engine will not have a radiator cap on the waterneck. Also, the s5 will have 2 electrical harnesses going to the OMP that connect right behind the alternator.

 

anymore help???

 

the UIM looks different, radiator are different, that is all i think of on top of my head

 

here is the pics of the two different UIM
http://homepage.mac.com/carldavis/intake.html

 

the electric omp is the biggest give away look behing the crank(eccentric shaft) pulley. also the s5 has an electric boost controller on it i believe. Your car is an s4 you should read on doing this swap it is always covered people turn away from it and like to stay in the series. like s4 s4....your 88 is an s4 and yes 91 is an s5. the ecu will need to be changed the harness, little things like i said just read. But if your getting an s5 motor for 300 dollars i would defintly jump on it, if not hook someone up because thats a damn good price for the motor.....is it the full motor?

 

the S5 aluminum housings have threaded holes above the sparkplugs for the knock sensors the S4 does not... the S5 has a double plunger style TPS the S4 has a single plunger TPS. The S5 has newer style wireharness connectors

 

thank you guys a lot! You have help'd me so much.

 

....and if all you see is a bare block without accessories, sensors, etc the biggest giveaway is the center (cast iron) housing, which has a large diameter port and two small diameter holes at the very top which interface with the EGR valve on S4s and is completely blocked off and flat on S5s.

 

any suggestions on the idle problem?

 

idle problems like that are usually related to vacuum leaks... they can be kind of hard to find.. especially when you have all the factory emissions stuff... i use a can of brake cleaner with the little plastic tube connected... 1st you will need to set your idle so it will at least maintain a constant RPM even if it is 12-15 hundred RPM... using the brake clean start squirting the vacuum lines... you know you have the leak when the idle changes... it will either sputter and die or rise...

on another note, if the car has been sitting for a long time then you may just need to flush the gas

 

the car has been sitting for like 5-6 months.

The engine is just the block...so with that in mind I have decide to do a n/a build. Im not to in to drag, but my target 1/4 time would be low 13's. I would like to get in the high 200's as far as horse power. If I could see 300 that would be awsome. Now I am just a bar going college student...so I dont have a lot of money to put down. But I have all the time in the world as of now. I am in no hurry to complete the project. Can I get some advice on parts that I should look into? Maybe if someone has a similar project (complete or in the process) they can help me out. I have t2 rotors, I can swap those out right?

 

actually im gonna start a new thread for this one