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Got locked out of car with keys in the ignition,started to overheat after 20 min idle

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Old 11-04-04, 11:07 PM
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Got locked out of car with keys in the ignition,started to overheat after 20 min idle

aight guys title says it all. I was making the housings for my new sleek light kiit and I had the hood popped open and reinstalled the stock lights and figured I would leave the hood open because chances are the car might be flooded and why get out and pop the hood twice if I dont have to. Well prior to starting the car i filled the coolant resevoir with water and water thru the coolant cap on the radiator hose as I have a coolant leak around the housing between the water pump and block. I replaced the water pump a month ago along with the thermostat and just put RTV sealant without the gasket. It is leaking from the top part behing the whole pump housing, not the part where the fan is where you would normally bolt the pump.

Me being mister brainchild thought the whole entire thing had to be removed in order to replace the waterpump which was coming in the next day, I didnt know it was simply that front peice. Needless to say i never put a gasket in a I have known for the last few weeks that I have had a leak and every few days I put more water in it but it never heats up. Anyhow when the car started just fine i proceeded to shut the hood because I didnt need to unflood it. Well I have this new and wonderful alarm and power locks recently installed that automatically lock when the car is started. Well wonderful thing is that when the door is open it still locks and i shut it behind me when i went to shut the hood and the keys were locked in the car while it was still running. I let it sit there for about 20 minutes aware that water was drip dripping from the bottom of the car forming a nice puddle, next to the previous puddle I had before I had put coolant in the car.

After about 20 minutes someone from the house had the other alarm activator and i tried to open the car with no avail. Turns out the alarm is completely deactivated while the ignition is in the on position. So my motherhappend to mention the coolant smell which I knew was from the leak but i check the temp gauge and it was 3/4s the way up, maybe a lil closer, and it was enough to scare me. So i jumped under the car with wreckless abandon like a skinny mother saving her child from a house fire and from the bottom of the car and started pulling anything i could grab from around the hood release area and got the hood to pop up and ripped the fuses out immediately and shut the bastard off. Anyhow I could see the overflow tank beginning to bubble.

Anyways I had to leave very quickly because we were in a huge rush but now I am curious as to what caused my car to heat up again. It is a new thermostat and pump. Could the ghetto RTV job/leak be causing air in the system affecting the flow ir is it possible that I keep leaking water from the block and refilling it from the resevoir and the radiator just isnt cutting it and slowly leaking over 20 minutes of idling was enough to get it warm because the rpm was contant and low? What do you guys think. I think I may have just found the solution. Anyhow lemme know what you think. Anyhow I am very tired therefore I apologize for saying Anyhow too many times. Anyhow, good night.
Old 11-04-04, 11:21 PM
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All I can say is...WOW.
Old 11-04-04, 11:25 PM
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dude! its so easy to break into FCs. anything flat and stiff will do the trick! so far the dumbest thing i've used is the cardboard backing of a notepad. other than that, i've used a saw and a license plate on other occasions. never locked myself out while it was running. seriously, it takes 5 seconds to get into the car without a key.
Old 11-04-04, 11:26 PM
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I need to break into my car (keys locked in the ignition with car running)

aight guys I already killed the car, now i just need to get into the thing. Any ideas??
Old 11-04-04, 11:30 PM
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btw one of the hatch releases is open
Old 11-04-04, 11:31 PM
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still looking

 
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all i can say is STOP USING MY SCREEN NAME WHEN YOU TYPE RECKLESS
"wreckless" is a not a real word. if it were it would mean to be without wrecks aka crashes.


not true in my case, but it is still my SN. if you people don't stop i'm gonna start requesting royalties.

Last edited by wreckless; 11-04-04 at 11:34 PM.
Old 11-04-04, 11:31 PM
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k cool. I just need to know why my car was overheating. Lack of water in the blook from it leaking?
Old 11-04-04, 11:35 PM
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Old 11-04-04, 11:46 PM
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bubbles man, it's all about the bubbles. that, and you used RTV...
Old 11-05-04, 12:03 AM
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What's wrong with RTV? I know wayne will come and defend RTV to the death. It hasnt failed me yet.
Old 11-05-04, 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by wreckless
all i can say is STOP USING MY SCREEN NAME WHEN YOU TYPE RECKLESS
"wreckless" is a not a real word. if it were it would mean to be without wrecks aka crashes.


not true in my case, but it is still my SN. if you people don't stop i'm gonna start requesting royalties.
Why do you care if we used a typo that happened to be your screen name???

And, no, it's not a real word...
http://dictionary.reference.com/search?q=wreckless

At minimum, it is a very distant link to the thread, and it's not helpful to the thread or the original poster.


-Ted
Old 11-05-04, 12:13 AM
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Rotors still spinning

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For future reference, it is almost faster to break into a 2nd gen than it is to actually use the key! If you take something flat and thin like the above mentioned saw blade or a slim jim, directly above the door handle insert it in the window groove. Push straight down aiming at the front center of the top of the door handle. You will push the locking mechanism straight down and the door handle will pop up, opening the door. It is quite scary how easy it is. If the car is off, the factory alarm will sound the horn. This will go away when you get your keys back and insert them in the lock to turn it off.
Old 11-05-04, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by RETed
Why do you care if we used a typo that happened to be your screen name???

And, no, it's not a real word...
http://dictionary.reference.com/search?q=wreckless

At minimum, it is a very distant link to the thread, and it's not helpful to the thread or the original poster.


-Ted
And this is?
Old 11-05-04, 12:15 AM
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I R SAD PANDA W/O BAW

 
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Yea the first day I owned my old 91 NA I locked myself out and had a buddy bring a slim jim over and it took all of 5 seconds. I'm sure you have some scrap metal laying around you could use.
Old 11-05-04, 12:30 AM
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ok so just push down right above the door handle...cool...what about my overheating problem
Old 11-05-04, 12:33 AM
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is it the air from the obvious leak or that I have lost soo much coolant from the block that filling the radiator and the resevior do no good. I need to fill it from the block right?
Old 11-05-04, 12:37 AM
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Rotors still spinning

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The first thing I'd do if I were you is to get those new gaskets installed. At least that way you can eliminate that as a problem. It is possible that there is an issue with the thermostat. You also may have an air bubble trapped inside the engine somewhere in the coolant system. Get the obvious fixed first. Narrow it down one at a time.
Old 11-05-04, 12:38 AM
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thermostat is brand new and has been working great. I think I will take your advice tho.
Old 11-05-04, 09:58 AM
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aight guys i am going to give this a shot to get her open. And i think i figured why it was getting hot at idle. With idle the car never goes above a certain rpm and the water flow stays constant. Also when I put coolant into the car before when replacing the thermostat and water pump I never bled the air out of the system. D'oh. I guess maybe thats why it was overheating??
Old 11-05-04, 10:39 AM
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well I got it open, i was checking my thermostat to see if the block was full but apparently because of the leak i am getting air in the system and it needs to be bled and thats why it was heating at idle. I also stripped the bolt that goes in where the thermostat goes so now I have to go buy a rethreader.
Old 11-05-04, 10:47 AM
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No more 7 or 8

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asuming all is correct but the leak, this would be your problem. when water is not compressed it boils at somthing like 220 degrees (unsure of exact temp as it changes with altitude)
under pressue like your cooling system is supposed to be, water boils at something more like 300 degrees.
if you have a leak:
1: your not going to be fully under correct pressure
2: the loss of water allows air into the system, air is not really that good for pulling heat out of the system, hence the reason we use water in our radiators.
3: if you used WAY to much RTV, then yes mabe when you put it all together it went inside the enige and radiator causeing blockage. but you really owuld have had to use way to much
4 another sugestion, is to make sure you dont have any air bubles. this will cause an inaccurate reading. (and since you are leaking water out, (pulling water in) this will cause air in the system)

anyways, the first thing to do is fix your leak, then start replacing and check thing is order. like the thermostat, they are cheap, and if it has not been replaced, you might want to start there if it is still over heating. if you have access to a spare radiator, try replacing it if nothing else fixes it.

ok ok ok, long enough post, you get the point.

Last edited by speeddemon32; 11-05-04 at 10:49 AM.
Old 11-05-04, 10:48 AM
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No more 7 or 8

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...... ok...... and i see you found the problem while i was typing that big huse post.....
Wish i would have known that while i was typing it.
:-D

he he he, all well.
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