yea so i picked up my block today..
i spun it by hand and the front blew a good pff of air, but the rear is almost nonexistent.
is it safe to assume blown seal?

 

so it would sound....
is it a fresh rebuild?

 

ut oh....

where'd you get it from?

 

Was it told to have good compression... where did you get it... it aint sounding that good eeek a compression test would tell you more info

 

maybe drop a little oil into the chambers and spin it some more. oil is what helps the seals hold compression.

 

i got it from a dude on this forum.. i got it for 150$ so i wasnt expecting much.
after dropping oil into the motor, it now compresses on one stroke on the rear, i can hear weak compression on the other faces.. but i was pretty sure that its not really possible to be sure till the motors been run at at least 250 rpm.
the motor came from a car with 80k

 

$150???? I am glad your expectations aren't very high. Just hope that all the apex seals are still in place. You can make some good money with that block if they are. Crack it open....cal in sick and crack it open!! Don't eat now, crack it open!!! I know the kids are crying, they;ll stop eventually, crack it open!!!

 

Maybe, maybe not. Look in the exhaust ports and check for any obvious seal trama.

If the engine has been sitting, the apex seals can get stuck in the rotor. You can often free them by spraying with penetrating oil through the exhaust ports.

Or, it's dead.

 

so i got ancy and i cracked it open. how do i measure seals? with a dial caliper i got 8.2 mm in height, i didnt know stock mazda was a 3pc.
unfortunatley, i did find some rust on the rear housing. im assuming this isnt repairable. front looks good though, im still breaking things down and cleaning up.
at the least i plan on replacing the seal springs, plus the internal gaskets of course.
damn that flywheel put up a fight.
questions though:
whats the best way to clean rotors.. and when removing side/cornerseals, what care should i take to ensure that they can be reinstalled without problem?
how do i go about doing a light secondary/primary port. do i really need a template from mazdatrix if i want to increase intake cycle slightly?

 

B4 you take the rotors apart you need to stamp the cornes "A" "B" and "C" Then you need to make a diagram and keep up with which spring/seal/o-ring went where. In other words draw a picture of the rotor (side view)on a piece of 8.5x11 paper and keep everything sorted so it goes back in the same slot it came out of.

Whats this mm crap?? How many 1000s of an inch?? .322"?

The new stock Mazdas aren't three piece. They'll actually be in one piece until you turn the motor over a few times and they break apart.

Only plan to replace the o-rings and Apex seals. If the other chingaderos are in spec save yourself a buck.

after you take apart your rotors (and have all the pieces laying on the correct diagram, IN a place where they are safe) drop your rotors into a bucket with Carb cleaner. let em sit for about two days to get all the carbon to disolve.

Let me know if you need the special tools. I am close you can borrow them.

 

Huh?! Everything on these cars are measured in MM's!

 

for the last couple years mazda has gone back to 2 piece oem seals. they look like one piece since the triangle assist piece is superglued on to help installation, but will seperate off when the engine is torqued to spec. you don't want to reuse apex seals, they are one of the seals that actually sees wear and tear, even if not blown. problem is they are $55 each and you need 6. the other brands are cheaper, but i would probably go with mazda 2 piecers.

 

These are 2-piecers and are only $39.95 a piece

http://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/cu...78&cat=0&page=

 

Seems their pulling us into that damn metric system inch at a time!!

It was just a joke.

 

yea. motors apart. side seals really didnt want to come out.. had to spray them with all kinds of crap.
yea these seals are toast 6.45mm.. .05 below min spec. that wont do. im going to use some parts from my running motor, because the rear housing had rust on it. after removing the rust, it looks like the chrome coating is gone below it. im going to soak the rotors in simple green tonight and probably tomorrow.

 

I don't know if I'd use simple green. I thought it eats certain metals.

I can't wait to get my own little project block to rip apart. How much did it cost to ship it?

 

i heard simple green is good.
im using it on just the rotors for now.
cost 170$ to ship

 

use carb cleaner. for your rotors
ARe you in OC California??
Mazdatrix has a lot of good used rotor housings. there in the front lobby when you go in.

 

im using the housing from my car, as well as one of the rotors....
the rear rotor and housing are completely shot. i broke 2 sideseals trying to move them...... and a corner seal.

as for irons..... is it possible to buff out corrosion on the surface?

 

I'm confused. Do you have the motor out of your car right now??? If so, you now have two motors broken down. And your mixing parts to make one good one. If os you don't need any rotor housings? Correct?

 

no, my motors still in my car. the new one is in peices. im not going to mess with my running motor until i have all the parts i need in my hot little hands.