2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Goopy street motor build and R&D

Old Feb 16, 2011 | 04:36 PM
  #151  
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I just received my RA adaptor very quick shipping
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 06:22 PM
  #152  
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installed all of my OMP system need to figure a way to connect the OMP to the throttlebody again for now it will be fixed slightly open while I continue to premix
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 08:38 PM
  #153  
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Why did you go for the aluminum pan? Why didn't you switch from oil pan bolts to oil pan studs?
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 09:32 AM
  #154  
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I choose it for a few reasons its baffled on top and aroung the pickup, oringed to help seal, the bolting flange is 3/8 thick doubles as a engine brace, has two drain plugs to get all the oil out, the bottom is slotted for better cooling, it holds another quart, and to be honest looks alot prettier then my stock be up pan. Whats the benifiet of the studs aside from looks? I was provided all new hardware with oil pan. I could spend money elsewhere.
Heres the RA adaptor and lines I tried to clean out best I could.
Attached Thumbnails Goopy street motor build and R&D-ra-001.jpg   Goopy street motor build and R&D-ra-002.jpg   Goopy street motor build and R&D-ra-003.jpg  
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 11:09 AM
  #155  
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Studs aren't for looks at all. Specifically with aluminum a stud is far superior to a bolt for fastening. They are far less prone to pulling the threads out of the rotor housings...


Did that RX-8 front cover gasket require any modification to use?
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 11:19 AM
  #156  
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Originally Posted by K-Tune
Studs aren't for looks at all. Specifically with aluminum a stud is far superior to a bolt for fastening. They are far less prone to pulling the threads out of the rotor housings...


Did that RX-8 front cover gasket require any modification to use?

I did not have to modify anything to use the RX8 front gasket, although I also used the o-ring and its nylon ring as well

Studs are not nec superior or less prone to pulling (having dealt with pulled studs a fair amount in Porsches) but they are sometimes more preferable into an aluminum casting where the part may need to be taken apart or serviced often, as repeatedly threading and unthreading a bolt into aluminum will wear the threads themselves and of course increases the risk of cross threading a bolt into the housing.
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 03:04 PM
  #157  
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I did put a little hylomar on the surfaces that the front cover and the waterpump housing seals on I also used the oring, hylomar'd down.
Attached Thumbnails Goopy street motor build and R&D-alt-001.jpg   Goopy street motor build and R&D-alt-003.jpg   Goopy street motor build and R&D-alt-004.jpg  
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 07:22 PM
  #158  
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i may get me that RA adapter as well.but i gotta get the omp injectors and lines again
can i use the s4 omp on s5 tb?
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 08:58 PM
  #159  
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if u get the arm on the s4 tb that adjusts the omp linkage it should work
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 09:08 PM
  #160  
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where u get lines?
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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 09:26 AM
  #161  
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I have lines and injectors and the omp rod from tb-omp
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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 09:32 AM
  #162  
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I bought mine from my dealership for my employee price
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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by just startn
I have lines and injectors and the omp rod from tb-omp
how much?
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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 04:55 PM
  #164  
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mocked up my fuel system and relocated my fpr its all gotta come off again but its coming along and fits perfectly, I didnt have to cut my old lines
Attached Thumbnails Goopy street motor build and R&D-fpr-001.jpg   Goopy street motor build and R&D-fpr-002.jpg  
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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 05:11 PM
  #165  
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got some sexy guages
Attached Thumbnails Goopy street motor build and R&D-prosport-001.jpg  
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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 07:05 PM
  #166  
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Ordered the last few little things
a pre made -10 return line 10 inches long, it was cheaper and beats the hell out of making my own.
12x1.5 to -4 male fitting for the feed line out of the motor
-4 90degree hose end, vosko gave me a feed line, but its way to long. Im gonna cut it in half and put this hose end on the perfect lenght
a 4 bolt exhuast flange and gasket for my downpipe.
still have to send out my injectors, find a place to clean my oil cooler, pick up some studs and nuts for the turbo, vac nipples, and a oil pressure sensor adaptor from johnathon at goopy that allows me to use my aftermarket guage in the stock location.
then comes the big list. wastegate, clutch, and trans)
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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 05:03 PM
  #167  
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got my -10 turbo return flanges on there. waiting on more parts to arrive
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Old Feb 23, 2011 | 04:31 PM
  #168  
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My got my 10 inch -10 return line for ATP and feed line fitting installed fit perfect just waiting on a few mote little things
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 09:10 AM
  #169  
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here a pic of my drain line
Attached Thumbnails Goopy street motor build and R&D-drain-watch-025.jpg  
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 09:31 AM
  #170  
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It looks like it's turning out well! Good job.

B
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 09:54 AM
  #171  
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thanks for the compliment it means alot
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 07:02 PM
  #172  
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well made myself an adaptor for my electronic oil pressure sensor, using the stock sensor I cut it in half and drilled and tapped it for my prosport gauge and it turned out great just hope no leaks.
James.
Attached Thumbnails Goopy street motor build and R&D-oil-presssure-sensor-001.jpg   Goopy street motor build and R&D-oil-presssure-sensor-002.jpg   Goopy street motor build and R&D-oil-presssure-sensor-003.jpg  
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 07:08 PM
  #173  
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Originally Posted by JWteknix
well made myself an adaptor for my electronic oil pressure sensor, using the stock sensor I cut it in half and drilled and tapped it for my prosport gauge and it turned out great just hope no leaks.
James.
why not get an adapter and put it right into the block? the autometer one is ~$10
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 07:35 PM
  #174  
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same **** mine was free
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Old Feb 27, 2011 | 08:51 AM
  #175  
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sooo close. yet, sooo far......
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