Goopy street motor build and R&D
Putting it in a video doesn't make them right.
The front oil pressure regulator, as stated by Hailers, relieves system pressure at 156 psi. This oil pressure regulator is before the oil cooler. The rear relieves system pressure at roughly 70 psi stock.
There are very few situations in which the front oil pressure regulator opens. One is by revving the snot out of the engine when the oil is completely cold. Two is if there is a clog in the oil cooler, or oil cooler lines, three is if the oil cooler thormostat bypass fails and the engine tries to pump cold oil through the cooler, and four is failure of the rear oil pressure regulator.
As you can tell, the front oil regulator is there to protect against failure modes.
Should the oil pressure after the pump skyrocket above 156 psi, it tends to lift the front cover away from the front iron, displacing the sealing-oil ring and causing a massive internal oil leak, which causes really low oil pressure, and the possibility of a seized engine.
Shimming the front oil pressure regulator removes the factory installed protection, and offers zero performance gains: once the engine is up to operating temperature under normal conditions, the system pressure is determined completely by the rear oil pressure regulator.
So, install the FD rear. Don't touch the front.
The front oil pressure regulator, as stated by Hailers, relieves system pressure at 156 psi. This oil pressure regulator is before the oil cooler. The rear relieves system pressure at roughly 70 psi stock.
There are very few situations in which the front oil pressure regulator opens. One is by revving the snot out of the engine when the oil is completely cold. Two is if there is a clog in the oil cooler, or oil cooler lines, three is if the oil cooler thormostat bypass fails and the engine tries to pump cold oil through the cooler, and four is failure of the rear oil pressure regulator.
As you can tell, the front oil regulator is there to protect against failure modes.
Should the oil pressure after the pump skyrocket above 156 psi, it tends to lift the front cover away from the front iron, displacing the sealing-oil ring and causing a massive internal oil leak, which causes really low oil pressure, and the possibility of a seized engine.
Shimming the front oil pressure regulator removes the factory installed protection, and offers zero performance gains: once the engine is up to operating temperature under normal conditions, the system pressure is determined completely by the rear oil pressure regulator.
So, install the FD rear. Don't touch the front.
I lit off the 13BT today. After warming it up and checking for leaks the compression test showed 90psi on the front and rear rotors at 5280ft elevation. I love these seals and I think your going to be real happy with the results in your engine.
I wish I was driving!
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 5,241
Likes: 84
From: BC, Canada
Learned a lot from installing an oil pressure gauge before the oil cooler as well as after the cooler in the standard location (oil filter housing).
Its actually pretty disgusting how much oil pressure drops across a stock, flushed oil cooler. The dual pass design, while great for fluid velocity, (and thus turbulence, and thus cooling capability) is pretty horrible for pressure drop.
Dual pass: mild improvement in cooling capaibility, 4 times the pressure drop.
I've always been curious to mod the oil cooler to function as a single pass cooler, and compare the results. Should drop have 1/4 of the pressure drop, but it'd be interesting to see the difference in after-cooler oil temps.
Its actually pretty disgusting how much oil pressure drops across a stock, flushed oil cooler. The dual pass design, while great for fluid velocity, (and thus turbulence, and thus cooling capability) is pretty horrible for pressure drop.
Dual pass: mild improvement in cooling capaibility, 4 times the pressure drop.
I've always been curious to mod the oil cooler to function as a single pass cooler, and compare the results. Should drop have 1/4 of the pressure drop, but it'd be interesting to see the difference in after-cooler oil temps.
I wish I was driving!
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 5,241
Likes: 84
From: BC, Canada
Was this the resurfaced housings as well?
I decided to bring my NA housing back to goopy so he can remove the exhuast sleeve and put a turbo one in cuz it would take hours to port that thing out lol should have all my stuff done tomorrow.
I just got a great deal on a nuekin turbo manifold w/ 60mm tial flange on it.
Planning on picking up a cheap T76 turbo and see how it does.
James
I just got a great deal on a nuekin turbo manifold w/ 60mm tial flange on it.
Planning on picking up a cheap T76 turbo and see how it does.
James
I used this write up
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/writeup-rebuilding-s4-metering-oil-pump-608166/
I purchased them from mcmaster-Carr. I ordered 50 for 9bux with shipping only needed one have 49 of you want one pm me
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/writeup-rebuilding-s4-metering-oil-pump-608166/
I purchased them from mcmaster-Carr. I ordered 50 for 9bux with shipping only needed one have 49 of you want one pm me
MECP Certified Installer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,176
Likes: 3
From: Mesquite, TX-DFW
I decided to bring my NA housing back to goopy so he can remove the exhuast sleeve and put a turbo one in cuz it would take hours to port that thing out lol should have all my stuff done tomorrow.
I just got a great deal on a nuekin turbo manifold w/ 60mm tial flange on it.
Planning on picking up a cheap T76 turbo and see how it does.
James
I just got a great deal on a nuekin turbo manifold w/ 60mm tial flange on it.
Planning on picking up a cheap T76 turbo and see how it does.
James
Painted my waterpump, thermostat flange, and oil filler neck with some high temp flat black paint, I am also gonna paint my motor mount arms and heater core pipes and a few other misc. brackets.
Also, cleaned and replace most of my bolts/hardware
Also, cleaned and replace most of my bolts/hardware
John from goopy just called told me he finished pressing in my rotor bearings and he clearanced my apex slots for the oversized seals tighter then stock he said my motor should have great compression. Im just waiting for him to receive a ups order with the last of my parts that should be here by noon, then I can go pick evrything up. its snowy out I hope the roads arent to bad. tomorrow its gonna snow all day I haved to port match my replacment housing then I hope to start my assembly.
Picked up the rest of my stuff from goopy all that's left is my oil control ring springs which John will send me once he receives them. Spent sometime port matching my new rotor housing to my old one it's probly like 75% done. I have some pix Ill post later. Goopy set all my apex slots individually to spec and labeled the seals to slots. Once I finish porting this housing I have to clean a few things then I can start stacking
heres my port so far the one did with the scrape on it(its not that bad) is alittle more squared but overall the same hieght and width of the other, I just matched the sleeve size. Idk if I should mess with the other one or just leave it? On my next tear down ill be getting the pineapple templates and be doing some more intake porting so I can compare and feel the differences being made.
I just have to reclean the housings, rotors, and eshaft.
Also, waiting for my oil contol ring springs.
Almost ready to stack.
painted a few more misc brackets. I need to remove from the car still, heater core metal lines to be painted, and oil cooler and lines to be brought to a cleaning facility. Injectors still need to be sent out and flywheel needs to be cut.
Then new clutch pp, trans., turbo and wastegate......
I just have to reclean the housings, rotors, and eshaft.
Also, waiting for my oil contol ring springs.
Almost ready to stack.
painted a few more misc brackets. I need to remove from the car still, heater core metal lines to be painted, and oil cooler and lines to be brought to a cleaning facility. Injectors still need to be sent out and flywheel needs to be cut.
Then new clutch pp, trans., turbo and wastegate......
Hey guys,
I just removed the oil jets in the Eshaft with spring and ball to clean after having my eshaft reconditioned and noticed that there was some type of seal of oring on the top of if that fell apart when removing is there some sort of oring or seal that goes on the top of it or can i reassemble it with out anything?
Thanks,
James
I just removed the oil jets in the Eshaft with spring and ball to clean after having my eshaft reconditioned and noticed that there was some type of seal of oring on the top of if that fell apart when removing is there some sort of oring or seal that goes on the top of it or can i reassemble it with out anything?
Thanks,
James
