J5sense

iTrader: (3)

do you have to pass emissions? if not i have a test pipe for the downpipe. 20 bucks plus shipping

spahn1

+1....

lsmsc

Yes, the maincat has to stay, so I can pass emissions. But thanks for the Offer.

slpin

iTrader: (9)

In that picutre, it looks like it still has the stock downpipe... yes?
a likely cause is the downpipe being slightly (or completlely) clogged...
cats should last a long time, remove the precat downpipe, replace it with a downpipe, and give a through check that your car is running as it should... a bad tps can easily send a cat to hell, since it could dump raw fuel into it for no reason...

lsmsc

So, 2 month have passed, but some things took longer than expected. We took apart the whole Intake System to fix problems with leaking water. Meanwhile I cleaned out the Precat and exchanged a lot of hoses from the intake system. This weekend we put everything back together.

Now I have two Problems:
- the car starts fine, but revs to 3000rpm and stays there.
- after a minute or so, the turbo starts glowing red.

That sucks. Now I can't even heat the car up to normal temperature to check the timing, cause I think i will blow the Turbo. Any Ideas, what i can do next?

satch

iTrader: (1)

One possibility for the 3000 idle might be caused by the AWS not shutting off after 17 seconds as it should. The Brown/Yellow wire at the Accelerated Warm Up solenoid should have less than 2 volts or so for only 17 seconds after the AWS has activated ( on an S5 that would occur when the coolant temp ranges between 59 and 95 degrees during a cold start). After 17 seconds of activation the voltage on the Br/Y wire should increase to 12 volts. If yours is staying at 2 volts or so then that is your problem.

bmwrx7man

iTrader: (2)

deff clogged cats . tak em out this is how my front rotor ate all my seals heat

lsmsc

I will look after the AWS tomorrow.

Is there any problem with running the car without any cat? I mean beside emissions...

bmwrx7man

iTrader: (2)

nope runs better . i strongly suggest taking them off and not driving the car till u do . all that heat is going right into ur motor .

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

a stuck, baby dragon.

lsmsc

Okay, I seperated the exhaust after empty Precat and it seems it fixed the glow problem.

The AWS is broken too. Not the AWS itself, it klicks really nice, if you apply 12V, but there is no power on the brown wire. not 12V not 2V, nothing!
Seems there is something broken. Is the AWS directly controlled by the ECU, so I can measure the Voltage there, or is there a relay (relais? don't know the word) somwhere?

satch

iTrader: (1)

The AWS is controlled by the ECU, pin 3J. You might want to disconnect the plug to the AWS solenoid and see if this drops the rpm from 3000 to a normal level.

lsmsc

I tried disconnecting the AWS. Nothing changed. But as I understand, that is normal, as the AWS blocks the airflow, if you apply 12V to trigger the internal relais.


I disconnected the hose from the AWS to the intercooler and tried to conceal it with some tape. This brought the rpm down to 2000, so I guess, if I can fix the AWS it will run much better...



@satch Where did you get that 17sec time for the AWS? I didn't find anything in the FSM and from feeling I think 17sec is to long for 3k rpm...

satch

iTrader: (1)

That's how long it is for the S4 as stated in the FSM and I'm pretty sure the same thing holds true for those with an S5.

And the BAC is part of the 1700 rpm warm up system. You should also unplug it as well before making a cold start along w/the AWS disconnected. And the Air Supply valve, again is a player.