Glowing Turbo
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Glowing Turbo
Hi,
I have a question regarding my turbo. The exhaust-pipe glows red even after just running warm in idle. I don't think that's normal. Any idea, what the Problem can be?
I have a question regarding my turbo. The exhaust-pipe glows red even after just running warm in idle. I don't think that's normal. Any idea, what the Problem can be?
#3
Full Member
Thread Starter
The engine gives no error-code at the moment and the spark-plugs are new.
I will check the timing the next days.
How do I test the oxygen sensor and the air pump? And what is AFM?
I will check the timing the next days.
How do I test the oxygen sensor and the air pump? And what is AFM?
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EugeneChoe (12-01-20)
#5
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
The AFM is the Air Flow Meter. If the flapper door opens too much it will enable the ECU to inject more fuel than required and too much fuel leads to the excess fuel being burned in the exhaust manifold which causes a higher than normal temperature thus a glowing exhaust.
The FSM shows how to test the Oyxgen Sensor along with numerous writeups on this site which can be found by engaging in something called "the advanced search."
#6
talking head
number 1 question is do you have leading spark , pull off the lead and test for spark
without it the engine will burn 15 degrees late , and the glowing pipe is typical of that
number 2 question is the set couple left bridged? this will lock the timing at idle timing,, another good reason the pipe and cats will glow
without it the engine will burn 15 degrees late , and the glowing pipe is typical of that
number 2 question is the set couple left bridged? this will lock the timing at idle timing,, another good reason the pipe and cats will glow
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#9
Full Member
Thread Starter
The Spark was there on all plugs the last time I checked. But I will test it again.
I havn't left it bridged. Neither with the "debug"-pin (driver-side for Error-Code-Reading) nor with the yellow connector which i believe is for the fuel pump.
Just to clarify, I have a S5 turbo. It starts fine cold and hot and runs with a smooth idle at around 800. Only Problem is that after a cold start, i have to stay a little on the gas 1 or 2 minutes, or the engine will die. Propably a Thermowax issue, which I havn't fixed yet.
I havn't left it bridged. Neither with the "debug"-pin (driver-side for Error-Code-Reading) nor with the yellow connector which i believe is for the fuel pump.
Just to clarify, I have a S5 turbo. It starts fine cold and hot and runs with a smooth idle at around 800. Only Problem is that after a cold start, i have to stay a little on the gas 1 or 2 minutes, or the engine will die. Propably a Thermowax issue, which I havn't fixed yet.
#14
I had this problem before. My issue was being confused by using an S4 crank pulley on an S5 engine with an S5 front cover. I don't remember the exact details, but I know it's pretty hard to set the timing unless you have all the parts matched correctly. And I remember it being a little difficult to find the actual, real TDC. I think there is a thread that shows how to find TDC accurately using 'fluid displacement', a lot of trouble if you ask me, but you gotta do right. Definitely could be something other than the timing though, good luck and fix it quick before you burn out that turbo.
#17
Full Member
Thread Starter
I will take out the timing gun if I have time under the week. The plan for the weekend is to take out the precat and clean it out.
Does anyone know, if the S4 Turbo Downpipe fits on the S5? I could get one of these...
Does anyone know, if the S4 Turbo Downpipe fits on the S5? I could get one of these...
#20
Full Member
Thread Starter
Okay, today I pulled out the cat after the turbo. It rattles a lot, if you shake it. So I tried to clean it out, but I can't get the filling out, cause of the curve the connection Pipes make. Is there any trick to do it?
#23
Full Member
Thread Starter
I havn't timed it yet, as I first wanted to take out the converter, but can it even be bad timing? I mean for temperature this high it has to run very lean or much to fat. But if it is either side, would the car even start? And my one runs a perfectly fine idle, whitch isn't what you expect from wrong settings...
#24
Full Member
Thread Starter
I'm searching for a matching downpipe at the moment.
Thanks for all the tips, I will check the sensors and the timing the moment, I can safly start my car again.
Thanks for all the tips, I will check the sensors and the timing the moment, I can safly start my car again.