Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

... for the third time. I just wanted to get some opinions from others. What are some items I should replace while the engine is on the workbench? I'm already doing the pilot bearing, and was considering doing the rear main seal. Anything else?

FirstRotaryExp

iTrader: (3)

Well....for what reason is the engine coming out?

If its out you might as well replace the oil cooler lines with something newer, toss the stock oil pedestal for a re-speed pedestal adapter so you can have the option of installing an oil pressure and oil temp gauge in the future (since changing this pedestal is a pita while its in the car due to one nut being hard to thread/tighten). rebuild the omp and replace the O-ring thats on the rod actuator to halt ant oil leakage. Replace/inspect the transmisison throwout bearing, clutch fork, transmission front/rear main seals, fuel lines, do any cleaning while you can, and check/replace any emissions hosing or toss the system all together if your state has no emissions laws.

Just my $0.02

Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

Engine is being pulled because it lost compression in the rear rotor. I just put a new clutch in it about a month ago so I'm good there. Thanks for the info!

Also, I meant, what are some good things to check/replace on the motor that will be going into it soon. It has 80-some thousand miles on it and great compression. Just looking for little things that will save me time and money down the road.

I'd love to put good oil lines on it, and that pedestal and everything, but the cash just ain't there right now. I can deal with the seals and stuff. Definitely will do those.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

uh the oil cooler lines will fail. and the heater hose on the rear iron if it hasn't been changed. you asked what'a good to change, we told you, and then you said you had no money. You know those two ALWAYS fail?

the oil filter pedestal is an option certainly, but the oil cooler lines are more important.

Enthu

iTrader: (1)

Be sure to check over all your sensor wires for any cracked shielding. It's easy to splice and solder them now before they become an annoying check engine light and are harder to access.

Send your injectors out to witchhunter.com to be cleaned and flow tested. Also, change your water theremosensor if you haven't already. I also put a new water pump on when I did mine. the old one worked, but as 20 years old almost and it was only $40 for a rebuilt one at the local parts store.

Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

Let me rephrase that. I don't have money for an aftermarket replacement. I already have a stock replacement.