Hello im new to FC and rx7 in general. I've been into 240's and MR2's. I'm looking into buying a 88 10th AE rx7 turbo II. The only problem the guy told me is that he use to race it and he put the oil pressure up on the engine so now when it idles it smokes a bit. im not fully sure on how much it smoke because i will be seeing it on friday. I just wanted to see what you guys think.

He posted:
MODS Include: Street ported S4 motor w/ S5 internals and S5 housings, 3" turbo back exhaust, HKS Standard Wastegate, CorkSport Oil Cooler Line, Full Autometer gauges, 720cc primary / 1600cc secondary injectors, Walbro fuel pump. Microtech LT10S ECU, Magnacore 10mm wires, 4 MSD ignition boxes,There is more. and all unnecessary engine bay equipment removed.and new paint. there is no rust.ONE OWNER

 

holy ****. you are getting an awesome car. congrats.

 

Thanks haha but is that normal for the car to be smoking a bit while idling, because of putting the oil pressure up on the oil pump? or is that smoking only caused by the seals?

 

Depending on how much you are paying looks like a killer car. I would do a compression test and a champagne test when you go see if it the owner will let you.

 

How do i do the compression test im new to rotary.

 

same as a regular car, but you dont hold pressure in the gauge. you let it vent. read the pulses.

 

ohh okay. and whats a good psi? and what about the champagne test? xD sorry im a newbie

 

If you only hold the valve (as opposed to removing it) numbers will be a little lower, also make sure the gad pedal is fully depressed as well or that will lower numbers as well. That being said, 120+ is awesome 100+ is good 90+ is ok 80+ is getting tired 70+ is marginal anything lower you might as well rebuild now.

As fast as the champaign test...bubbles are bad, no bubbles its good.

 

oh okay, thank you!

 

I thought smoking at idle was a very bad sign, as in the engine is toast and it's time to move on or expect a big project. If it only smokes for a little bit when you first start it and then clears up that's fine. Double check at high rpms though. The champagne test means popping the radiator cap, starting the engine and looking at the coolant for bubbles which means exhaust in coolant which means a toasted engine. Likewise if you hold in the valve on the compression test and you get, for example, 30-30-90 (two horrible readings) the engine is missing an apex seal and needs an expensive rebuild. Any of these are $3,000 and up IIRC. All of these apply to a piston engine too, really, only different seals are causing it and the piston is cheaper to rebuild. You should find a mechanic to inspect the whole car to be safe as there are tons of other things to check besides the engine. Unless you don't mind a huge series of repair jobs and a project car.

 

Just because it burns oil at idle doesn't mean that it's a bad engine. It could be a bad turbo oil seal. Don't always assume the worst. Verify that there aren't any other problems first before just assuming that the engine is bad because it happens to burn oil. On my old worn-out engine, I put a quart of oil in it at every fuel-up. It would smoke like crazy above 5k, but it still pulled hard to the red line every time (Till a weak apex seal finally gave out due to extreme temperatures). Bad rotor oil seals are what you make of them. If you have the cash to shell out for a full engine rebuild, go ahead. But most of us don't.

Regardless of whether it has bad rotor oil seals or bad turbo oil seals, I find it unusual that the smoke is supposedly happening at idle rather than at high RPM or throughout the entire RPM range. How many miles does the engine have? And the turbo? Does the oil on the dip stick smell of gasoline? Is there oil in the intake tubing/intercooler? Can you wiggle the compressor shaft on the turbo? Answers to these questions would be very beneficial in figuring out the life that's left in the engine/turbo.

In any case, I would personally love to have a 10th Anniversary Edition regardless of the engine's condition.

 

^^ I 2nd that.

 

You really should search this forum before you buy a car. There is TONS to learn. I do not suggest buying a rotary if you do not know ANYTHING about it.

Seriously i am just looking out for you. That car is indeed a great model 10th AE is the BEST 2nd gen IMHO. But you need to know what your getting yourself into.

But if your set on buying this car then read these links. The way everyone said to test the car is not the complete guide. Nice job guys. You forgot to tell him a few more things about compression test, and coolant seal test.

Please SEARCH

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...ion_check.html

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...l_failure.html

http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/newowner.htm

This is just the tip of the iceberg...Good luck

 

I know a bit, i have been doing research and have been learning about them. I have found out different things about them and just double checking on the forum. I've only had MR2-t's and ive been wanting a FC for a while. Thanks for those links, they are very helpful!

 

I would be very hesitant about buying this car unless its a good deal. He claims he raised the oil pressure? Sounds fishy, check the stock oil pres gauge, normally should be around 60psi above 2500 rpm's.

But its getting harder and harder to find a nice FC, much less a 10th AE, so if you can get it at a good price, scoop it up I would suggest you prepare for the worse though if you buy it(engine rebuild).

 

oh okay, thanks! that helps a lot haha and what would you think a good price is for that car would be just by the info i gave you? lol just wondering so i don't ripped off or anything. thanks!

 

Well if I was in the market for that.....

The interior looks a bit beat up, and that wire running through the door jam scares me, if that is half-assed, what else is, ya know? can't really tell the body condition by those pics.

But it does have a microtech and other goodies, still stock turbo though I assume.

If the body is in good shape and its not smoking bad and passes a comp. test and the bubble test, I would maybe go as high as $5000 if I really wanted it.

If the body panels don't line up and its smoking bad, $3500 max.

But that's just me.

 

Yea I see what you're talking about, I was thinking the same on the prices. Thanks for the help