CrypticApathy

My goal is to get 300RWHP with as little direct engine/turbo moding as possiable.

The engine has a mild street port done to it, other then that its a stock s5 TII. Id like to keep relighability. So i wanna keep actual work done to the engine to a minium. and free up as much of the existing HP as possiable, using better intake, and getting pullies and what not. Is there anything else that can be done to come as close as possiable to reaching my 300RWHP goal without moding the engine or turbo?

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

rtek, BNR, and fuel...
that way the turbo isnt pushed to the max constantly

FC3S Murray

iTrader: (7)

i don't know if the stock turbo is capable of 300 REAR wheel horse power, even with fuel managment and other electronic upgrades. You can get that with a hybrid turbo......it is still a stock turbo in a way with direct bolt on and only a different AR and trim. I may be wrong though, has anyone tried to get 300 RWHP out of a stock turbo???

Brody8877

iTrader: (10)

BNR turbo, rtek, upgrade injectors and fuel pump, and exhaust. try that 1st.

Tournapart

iTrader: (4)

yeah, the stocker is limited to about 250hp with fuel mods, BNR is a must if you want 300rwhp,i would also go with a FMIC as the TMIC is pretty good, its quite small, as far as reliablity goes, preventitve maintence is key especially if you have a modded vehicle, change things earlier than stock, try earlier oil changes, check spark plugs more often, check belts, hoses, and vacuum lines more ofter, due to the higher engine temps, its the little things that keep an enigne together

CrypticApathy

What about a VMIC? i personally dont like FMIC due to having them exposed directly to the elements of the road, ie rocks, gravel ect. Just look at the abuse your radiator takes. Not to mention love bugs. I also dont want the IC to be seen. So theres no way on a stock turbo/ic setup to get 300rwhp? Is 300rwhp reachable and still keep close to the relighability of a stock setup?

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

i really dont think 300 is capable on a stock turbo...
and the IC needs to be upgraded to...
a V-mount is not cheao and requires more fabrication than a front mount...

FC3S Murray

iTrader: (7)

sucks man, but 300 isn't a number you will achieve from the factory turbo.

Tournapart

iTrader: (4)

if it is done right, yes, reliablity will be there, but it will cost some serious $$ to get 300rwhp and reliable at the same time

VMIC's are great, but they're true effectivness is accomplished through a reverse vented hood, so keep that in mind, and i fully understand about the FMIC, i was just pointing out that it would be a good idea to step away from the stocker if your going for 300

instead if a BNR if you have the $$ go with a ball bearing turbo of some kind, G42R maybe?

Jager

iTrader: (10)

Rtek 2.0
BNR Stage 3
Supporting fuel mods
CAI
Front mount intercooler
3" or larger exhaust
Good clutch
Underdrive crank pulley
Ported TB & Wastegate

That'll do it !

unW7WZ

don't bnr's come with the wastegate ported...like 34 mm....or something like that at stage 3...

steve84GS TII

Loose the RWHP,your comparing to factory HP numbers which are crankshaft rated.

300RWHP is like 360 crank HP,no way in hell the stock turbo could make that reliably when its designed for only 200HP in stock form.And I highly doubt the EFI could flow that anyways.Im near about 300 crank HP with my streetported S5 and TO4B hybrid and the S5 AFM is just about pegged at 14psi of manifold pressure.Yes,its fast and reliable,has been for 5 years,but theres no way the little stock compressor can move enough air for a 75% HP increase over stock....

Oh,and pullies dont add HP,neither do light flywheels.....

NZConvertible

I don't know if I'd go so far as to call it abuse. Unless you regularly go off-roading or drive around behind trucks dropping **** out the back, damage to the radiator (or A/C condenser) should be minimal. I know the damage to mine is nothing more than I would expect for an 18yo car.

I've cut out the stock grille and replaced it with mesh. This was partly for looks and partly to keep out stuff like leaves and small paper bags, but will offer all the protection a FMIC needs. If potential damage is all you're worried about, this is what you should do.

Like Mr. Jagger said, paint it black. Do the same with the mesh. Stealth is good...

adrock3217

Uh, yes, they do. The stock turbo can make 250rwhp, maybe more with proper tuning.

bigdv519

iTrader: (3)

Less rotational mass is always a good thing. Pullies, belt-driven accessories, light weight rotors, light weight e-shaft, light weight flywheel, light weight driveshaft, and light weight rims.

CrypticApathy

i never said they added HP. They do the same thing headers and intake do to a car. They free up horsepower your engine is already making. The less work your engine has to do the more it can work on getting your wheels moving. Lighter flywheel = easyer to turn which means its less work for the engine, and pullies help make things easyer to turn and move which is less stress on the engine. Its the same affect as having your AC on in a car and having your AC off in a car, you loose HP when your AC is on b/c your engine has to work.

I dont mind spending the money to make it relighable in the long run you save money. ill be keeping this car for a long while so it all doesnt have to be done right this moment. I did get all the porting i wanted done out of the way though when i did the rebuild and im keeping the stock s5 rotors. theres something i learned a while ago when dealing with cars. They can only be 2 of these 3 things, fast,cheap,relighable.

If you want it fast and cheap it wont be relighable
if you want it relighable and cheap it wont be fast
if you want it fast and relighable it wont be cheap.


So with a upgraded IC (perferably vmount). (our roads suck *** down here)
upgraded turbo.
standalone
bigger injectors
pullies
intake
lighter flywheel
i can get close to 300?

can i still stick to 10psi? i dont wanna boost to high hell either to make it. Just a personal thing. I dont like drivers that say they ahve like 400hp on 25psi when its normally supposted to be like 12-15psi. IMO the turbo is doing to much of the work and your relighing to much onthat.

gscully

stop spelling reliable 'relighable' it's annoying. No pullies and lightweight flywheels do not do the same thing as a header or exhaust. Header and exhaust allow you to flow more air which means you can burn more gas which means more power. Lightweight flywheel, light wheels etc mean when accelerating you're car has less inertia to overcome, so it will accelerate faster. One thing to consider with that is that inertia is proportinal to angular acceleration, so for the flywheel you'll only notice in in the lower gears where the angular acceleration of your engine under WOT is large.

Undutched

sorry to jack the thread for this post: What is BNR?

Jager

iTrader: (10)

I have no clue what it stands for, but it's a dude (Brian?) that will upgrade a stock S4 or S5 turbo. There are 4 levels that he'll go for ya.

Jager

iTrader: (10)

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FM2W/power.htm

Thanks Ted!

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

this is all u need http://www.bnrturbos.com/2ndGen.htm

CrypticApathy

Aight spelling ****, when i compared the flywheel and pullies to the headers and exhaust i ment they do the same thing as in adding power. They ALL free up power from the engine they dont produce power. I also said that as well. got anything productive?

steve84GS TII

Volumetric effeciency and rotational mass are two different camps completely.

The reason I mentioned the FACT that less rotational mass doesnt=HP, is because the orignal post mentioned reaching a set RWHP mark and mods he wanted to do to reach his goal.This implies that a dyno run will be performed.....

Spending money on aluminum pullies is a waste when the stock sheetmetal pullies barely weigh a pound themselves.Slowing the waterpump is ill advised too,especially on a street driven rotary.If you want to increase acceleration,replace the VERY heavy stock flywheel with a lightweight one.It WILL increase acceleration,but it wont increase HP,so it will show no gains on a dyno run which measures RWHP.......
Look at it this way.....If I take a 200HP engine out of a 3000lb car and install it in a 1500lb car,of course the 1500lb car will be faster,accelerate harder and kick that much more butt.....but it wont make anymore power than the 3000lb car did.

And I dont care how well you tune and prod the stock EFI,theres no way in hell youll move enough air through the AFM to make 300 REAR WHEEL HP.The mechanical metering ability of the AFM hits a brick wall when the slide hits its stopper.After that point,even if somehow you could force more air through the unit(by what,increasing the Earth's atmospheric pressure!?) the AFM wouldnt be able to tell the ECU that anymore air is passing through.....mixture goes haywire,the ECU is beyond its mapping range....there is a limit....

If you wanna make big HP on low boost,then porting is a consideration.Boost is a measure of resistance to the turbo's output.The resistance is created by the closed intake ports.The larger the port and the longer the duration,the more air enters the engine and the less builds up in the intake system.Youll make more HP on less manifold pressure because youve increased the engines volumetric effeciency.Making 25-40 PSI is pointless unless you really wanna retain lowend torque with small ports and/or have a turbo that likes those high ranges and a really effective IC.
With a standalone ECU and upgraded turbo,you could easily hit your mark because youll be doing two important things.......
Eliminating the restrictive AFM...obvious reason to do so.
Increasing the turbo's output volume....decreases turbo shaft speed for a given volume of air output/manifold pressure.Turbo spins slower,heats air less,and is able to move more mass without going outside of its effeciency range.