$100T2

iTrader: (1)

I have a new mechanical boost gauge along with the autometer pillar mount... Does anyone have a pic of where the best place to connect the end of the hose to on the car? I've heard about splicing it into the hose by a black box on the passenger side shock mount, but does anyone have a pic of it? I don't want to screw this up.
Thanks!

Edit: By the way, yes, I searched.

Pinfield357

i have a pic that i can email you.

Snrub

iTrader: (1)

It's pretty easy and you're on the right track. Accurately locate the boost sensor (shouldn't be hard you know where it is). There's a vacume hose comming out of it. Somewhere in the middle cut the vacume line and put a T in. I used some epoxy to glue the the boost gauge hose into the hole in the T. Don't get expoxy down below to far or it could block your vacume hose or boost gauge hose.

For some strange reason if you were to sever the wrong line it shouldn't do anything too bad. I really can't see you screwing up the severing. The Haynes manual should have something on it. If you don't own it already you need one, so go buy it!

Pinfield357

also get a good T i got a nice brass one from a pet store in the fish section its fits in there good and tight

Juan

iTrader: (28)

I have my mechanical boost gauge hooked up to the Fuel pressure regulator vacuum line. The instructions on my Greddy gauge said to install it there and since I had the engine out, I "Tee'd" into that line and hooked up the gauge. Hooking it up to the boost sensor is the most common method since its the easiest place to "T" into.

$100T2

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, Pinfield, email it to me at puppysurgeon@hotmail.com. Thanks!
I have 5 gauges to install this weekend, this is just the beginning...

Icemark

Some less dampend vacume/boost gauges will not work well there, and should be T'd in between the boost sensor pellet and the manifold, right at the manifold instead of mid stream in the line as you suggest.

Just cutting the line mid-stream will result in the boost sensor and the the boost gauge reporting much more slowly than if it was at the manifold between the manifold and pellet.

Snrub

iTrader: (1)

I'm honesetly not sure where the "sensor pellet" is.

I don't find there's much lag. If I'm only boosting 1psi there seems to be more lag than if there's an immediate 6psi. I didn't orignate the stuff I outlined, I followed suggestions.

fastrotaries

If you run too much Vacuum off the boost sensor it could not respond properly. Caused my car to stumble on acceleration. I changed the source and ran mine off the manfiold. Where the upper meets the lower, was an extra nipple. Most consistant source would be off the intake plenum.

Icemark

There is a restrictor pellet that is about 1 inch in from the manifold, that protects against sudden surges to the pressure sensor.

You need that pellet in to make the sensor work correctly.

Conversely mechanical vacuum/boost gauges that don't have a lot of damping in them (read cheap less than $100 boost gauges) will read very slowly on the line, and generally not that accurate (but usually within 1 psi, but I want to know exactly what, not that I was at 5 psi just a few seconds before.

So if you push the pellet up another inch or so into boost/pressure sensor line, then attach the T almost directly at the hose to the manifold you won't have that problem.

Juan

iTrader: (28)

Where can I get a pellet for the boost sensor? My used engine didnt have that hose and neither did my car. My ACV is gone so I "T'd" into the BOV line for the sensor. I havent noticed any problems but can the pressure sensor get messed up the way I have it connected with no pill in the line??

Icemark

Any junk yard... just cut off the two inchs of the hose next to the manifold.

or the dealer has the same hose with pellet installed for pretty cheap (as mazda dealer parts go).