JK5S

iTrader: (2)

Ok so I've removed my gauge cluster in order to figure out why my voltage and fuel gauges were not working. The wiring was fine both to the alternator and to the fuel pump. The fuel sender unit was removed and inspected with an ohm meter and was operating fine. The gauge cluster was a bit rusty in the back, I disassembled the unit cleaned each screw and terminals, now nothing works but the voltmeter......
RPM, fuel, oil and temp gauge are not working. My question is do plugs in the back of the cluster have a 12 v source feeding the cluster gauges at all times with varying resistance. Can they be tested with a multimeter to check and see if the right amount of ohms & voltage are feeding the cluster. Can the individual cluster gauges be tested with a 12 volt source (except speedometer) to see if the gauges are working properly before next install?

I just want to pin point the problem before I tare back into the gauge cluster.
If you've done it in the past please share, thanks.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Meter fuse powers the gauges except the mechanically driven speedometer.

JK5S

iTrader: (2)

The meter fuse is in tact, I've already made sure of that.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Meter fuse powers the Black/Yellow wire leading into the back of the cluster at plug ME-01. Does this wire have voltage w/key to on? There are also two Black wires that act as the ground in connector FME-01 found where the Front harness mates w/the Meter harness.

Cratecruncher

I opened up my gauge cluster the other day to fix an intermittent voltmeter. When I put it back together the fuel and temp gauge didn't work. I checked all the signal wires and ground wires and everything was in the ranges published in the FSM. I went back and checked the resistance from the pin to each screw and had something crazy like 300KOhms. It was those stupid screws! They have to be replaced or sanded down to shiny metal on the bearing surfaces or the gauge won't work period. The screw itself is part of the circuit. Be careful not to over-torque them either. Once I had everything working again I coated the screws with clear fingernail polish. (GF's not mine)

JK5S

iTrader: (2)

Today I've tested the each wire that corresponds to the metering gauges and they seem to register with the multimeter. although I cant say the same thing for the gauge cluster.

JK5S

iTrader: (2)

It looks like I have to take each individual screw out and clean it with a steel brush.
What page in the FSM did you find the information on testing the individual gauges?

Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

Good info, but there's no need to lie

JK5S

iTrader: (2)

Found it, it was in the body electrical section.

JK5S

iTrader: (2)

Ok, I got all gauges working, I gave all rusted screws a bath in CLR and now they are good as new ( awesome product), Also cleaned the copper seats under the screw head. The thing that is irritating is the both water temp and fuel gauges are not working. I tested them individual with a 12V source at their corresponding pins and they both work fine. I also checked the output at the connector harness to the cluster (black & white) and the 12 volt output comes trough the connector pins when grounding the temp sensor and gas senor wire with the ignition key turned. So all its good, except when I connect the cluster to the harness the two gauges doesn't want to move, any ideas?

satch

iTrader: (1)

For example, with key to on and the wire disconnected from the temp sensor and grounding that wire should result in the gauge needle climbing. The grounding of this wire should be done just long enough to check the movement of the gauge needle.

JK5S

iTrader: (2)

I've done that, although I'm puzzled since it works off the car but it doesn't work in the car. Like I describe above, when the sensors are grounded the gauge cluster harness pins read 12V. When connecting a 12V source to the pins at the back of the gauge cluster the needles move.

Its very frustrating dealing with it.

Cratecruncher

Electrical problems frustrate me too because I can't see any progress for my effort until Bang! It works.

If the gauges work off the car through the pin and you get a signal from the sensor through the socket at the harness side take a look at that socket. You may have a female connector thats pushed back or splayed open etc.