Valkyrie

I noticed that I can suddenly see inside the bellhousing from places I don't think you're supposed to be able to see in it from... Also one of the bolts looks like it's come unscrewed.

WTF!!!

I thought I might have been missing bolts or something, but... jeebus.

Valkyrie

I took it to the Mazda dealer because I don't have a jack and didn't feel like doing it myself (plus I wanted a second opinion).

It was missing one bolt and the guy bolted it back on for me... I'm gonna go pick it up tomorrow morning. Hopefully they won't charge me a crapload.

They for some reason think my TPS and pressure sensor are bad, and that my engine is spewing a Crank Angle Sensor code (number 3) but I think they're nuts. If the CAS wasn't working the car wouldn't run. I figure they're just confusing it for the 30 code (split air solenoid). My checks said they're both still good but that the ECU may or may not be bad, depending on whether the harness has a short or something.

They said they couldn't find any vacuum leaks... maybe it was running bad because of the vacuum sensor (which isn't working because of the code being tripped but it's still getting the proper voltages). They figured out what I already knew by telling me the oil leak is at the OMP, and they probably forgot to look for an exhaust leak.

I need to remember to ask about getting a new dashpot though...

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Dealers will tell you all kinds of stuff is wrong so they can charge you to replace them. This isn't true of all of them, but many. I would tell them that you can fix it your self, then look into it at home.

Valkyrie

Well it's not like I actually asked them to order a new TPS and pressure sensor (that would be 650+ dollars...I'll take my chances with used parts...). I'm 90% sure they're just fine but that either the ECU or the harness is FUBAR'ed... I just REALLY don't want to have to take the harness out of the car since it's a total pain (being as how it's basically trapped under the manifolds), more so than having to actually repair it...although that'll take a few special ordered parts (harness tape, pins, connectors, etc...)

I'm gonna ask him what and how they actually checked them anyway... and I'm gonna check the codes myself.

Valkyrie

I took a look at it and apparently you *can* normally see inside the bell housing from the right-hand side of the car, since there's a sort of window gap, although it was definitely starting to come unbolted...

They mis-read the codes as well... I should probably complain because they don't know what they're doing. Also, they basically told me what I already knew when it came to the oil leaks (oil pan and OMP...), but I'm still not convinced there's no vacuum leaks.

Also, I got home and adjusted the TPS and suddenly the code went away (maybe because it was warm? The light still comes on when I give it a certain amount of throttle, although usually only when it's cold...).

I think *MAYBE* that code is actually the pressure sensor having a dead spot somewhere, and that it corresponds to approximately 1/3rd throttle (and goes away when the engine is warm?).

I could have sworn the pressure sensor was ok (I didn't have a vacuum pump but I applied approximately the specified amount of vacuum and the voltages went through the proper ranges I think)...but I guess maybe I should go ahead and get a used one.

Still, 76 dollars to put one bolt in and miss-read the codes...

Now if only I could get all the sounds to go away...

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Yep, the standard diagnostic fee.... Damn I hate dealers.

Valkyrie

According to my research, I'm not the only person who has had a pressure sensor code flash while giving it throttle (meaning it's pegged to either side of the pressure gauge's range), and that it goes away when very warm.

However, I don't think I could find any fixes, besides just replacing it?

I think I might just buy that one from you if you've still got one for sale :p

Edit: Apparently this can also happen if you don't have the restrictor pill, but I still had one last time I checked.

Rotary Noob

Dealers are going to try and upsell every damn thing they can. And if they cant, they will try again. They do that at any dealership. Thats how they make money, selling more parts, and doing more service. they probably made maybe 20 bucks off you bringing your car in for them to tighten that one bolt.

The more they can upsell, the more they can mark up, and the more they profit. thats why they have the 20 dollar oil changes, and why they say those oil changes take .30 on flat rate. if you do the job right, it takes about .5 hours to do, because most have the "safety inspection" that goes along with it. All that does is get the car in, so that the dealer can try to upsell parts/labor/detailing, anything they can do.