rick_tj

Today was a beautiful day in Exeter, so I decided to tackle something bothering me. The 6PI system. I wanted to make sure the actuators were actuating, and that the system was working. So I started by taking the air intake tube off to make some hand room. This helps tremendously. Using the 10 mm socket, I took the two bolts holding the rear actuator on, off. It slid, amazingly, right off. The actuator worked fine. The thing the actuator attaches to was a little stiff, but with some heavy penetrating lube, it moved freely. Great! Back on went that actuator. The front one, however, took some coaxing. The two bolts came off easily enough, but the actuator didn't want to budge. Turned out the plastic thing on the end of the shaft coming out of the actuator had rusted itself solid (well, the bolt thing holding it on anyway). After some banging around down there (not much room to coordinate a good swing) The thing finally decided to come loose from the thing it attaches to. I appologize for the lack of technical terms used here, I don't know what everything is. That thing however, was stuck solid. After a few blows with the hammer, it managed to move. The only thing is though, it won't return to close. I'm hoping after a few 4000RPM runs it'll close itself now that its been moved. Anyway, that was my day. Thanks for reading.

-Rick

BlaCkPlaGUE

Why didn't you just use some engine oil to lube up the rusty joint for the actuator arm? Its better that just loosening it and having it half work, using oil will make it fully work.

RandomHero

iTrader: (2)

Wait a second, you hit your actuator shaft becuase it was stuck?! If your actuators are gummed up, then the thing to do is tear down the intake and free up the 6pi sleeves with wd and pliers. While you have the intake off you can take out the shafts or lube them up if needed.

Brett

rick_tj

Okay, maybe you're picturing something different from what I'm talking about. On the actuator, on the very end, there's a plastic thing with a hole near the end, and a bolt thing going through it. That bolt was rusted. I used penetrating fluid, and knocked it loose.

What I'm curious about, is how to free up the rotating thingy the end of the actuator connects to.

BlaCkPlaGUE

lmfao, dude now Im confused as to what thingy your referring to! Get some pics

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

wtf are you guys te mechanich police? everyone knows if it dont work, bash it with a hammer till it does. bu in this case its the 6pi in which oyu could simply just yank it and have at er.

KingCobraV9

iTrader: (2)

i love my dead blow hammer....... now what are you going to do if it doesnt close or if it does close and stays there again??

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

I have been working on these cars for 7+ years and I must admit I have no mental picture of what he is describing.

Twofer

Sorry for the noobness, but does "Liquid Wrench" (spray) work, or is there a specific brand I should look for? Thanks!

-Twofer

rick_tj

I am terribly sorry guys. Seriously. I was only trying to convey the feeling of success I had. If someone can get me a picture of the actuator on the motor, I can show you what I'm talking about.

gingenhagen

liquid wrench worked awesome on my rusty exhaust bolts. and suspension bolts. I give it

johnnyg

He's talking about the rod that actually turns the 6 port sleeve. This ain't good enough. You're going to have to free it up until it moves back and forth freely by hand.

rotarygod

iTrader: (1)

Be careful about banging on them. Sometimes they can be so stuck that you will snap the end of the actuator rod right off trying to free it up.