BlackN/A

So i took off my rats nest, removed the 5&6 port sleeves, and tb mod on my s4 n/a. I can't hear any vacume leaks but the car runs REALLY wierd. In the morning, I hold the gass for a while (aws gone too) and when I drive it will stall, not shut down just loose ALL power. It does it in every gear. The exaust note gets wierd too, its like a loose flapper. I ran fuel line from the filter to the primary rail (small one) and from the secondary to the return to tank line is that correct? Also it never used to backfire and now it does it whenever I'm not on the gas. I thought maybe I am running lean with so much more airflow but the ecu would realize this and adjust fuel flow right? Any help would be great.

DREYKO

possible, may also be out of tune now that so much is removed, may need to adjust the cas

beamer242

also check your tps and make sure its in spec and tuned. i dont know the exact way to do that... you will have to search for that.

Brian

NZConvertible

The FPR acts like a on-way valve, so if you connect the fuel lines backwards the engine will not run at all.

BlackN/A

It does run, but crapy. So that means the fuel system is correct and I should look into what the previous posters sugest.

BlackN/A

What setting sould I have my multi meter on to chech the tps?

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

I was getting that wierd "flapping" noise when my AFM went for a ****......the car would run and idle fine but had no power and wouldn't rev up with any more than 2-3% throttle.

HAILERS

88 n/a car?

Put the meter on DCVolts.

Put the negative lead on a known ground.

Go to the tps connector and on the Harness side backprobe the GREEN/RED wire with the positive lead. With a fullY hot engine, the reading should be approx 1 (one) volt dc. Done unless it's way off, then adjust the tps screw til the meter reads one volt dc. Done. Thru. Go do something else.

BlackN/A

OK, I did the tps, it sits at .95 grounded to tb and 1.01 grounded to the rad cap. Is that good enough? New bigger problem. I took it for a test drive and it back fired a little less and was pretty fast except it cut out momentarily at high rpm in every gear. My tach doesn't work or I'd tell you how high. So I get back and check the tps just to be sure and I hear a bubbling sound. It's the primary (small right?) injector for the front rotor spewing fuel out of the bottom. It was bubbling out in between the inj. and the engine not the rail and inj. It stoped after about two min. Why the hell would it leak up out of the engine and not just drop in.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

well it might just be seeping out a void that is outside the o-ring and then pooling out on the manifold.

That's probably why it was cutting out. Get some new injectors.

Also you may want to have a look at your trailing coil if your tach is dead.

HAILERS

*****OK, I did the tps, it sits at .95 grounded to tb and 1.01 grounded to the rad cap. Is that good enough? *********

That's good enough IF the engine was hot when you did that. Anywhere b/t 0.95 and 1.05vdc is plenty good. You want the engine HOT because the throttle linkage is effected by the water thermowax when the engine is cold. If the water thermowax is working, it is normal to see way above 1vdc at the tps at that time. Once the water warms up the voltage will go down to the one volt dc. So don't ever be alarmed if the tps voltage is up when the engine is cold.

About the fuel injectors. The injectors have a 0'ring as you know. But they also have Two grommets. One at the top of the injector and one b/t the bottom of the injector and the housing. The Grommets should be pliable/malable/soft. A grommet that has been in the car for fifteen years will be hard and will not seal b/t the injector and the housing causing an air leak that is hard to find. They also will crack and cause a leak.

Fuel should not be coming out of the housing at the bottom of the injector even if the injector was stuck wide open. Make sure the injector isn't leaking from a crack in its housing and make sure it isn't the 0ring seeping/leaking.

Real bad idles can come from rock hard grommets that have cracks and are not sealing at the base of the injector.

HAILERS

I notice something strange about this thread. You cannot see the primary fuel injectors without taking the dynamic chamber off the last time I looked. So I don't understand how you saw the bubbling fluid at the base of the primary injector.

You can see the secondary injectors easily enough, but primary???? Naw. Unless you had the dynamic chamber off and had the fuel injector check connector jumpered and the key to ON. Then I understand.

BlackN/A

I understand your thinking. I took off the rats nest so that made a lot more room. When I heard the bubbling it sounded like maybe the PD, which scared me a little so I got my shop light and that's when I noticed the bubbling fuel on the front inj. I can only see the bottom 1/3 of the front inj and the rear one is hidden.

BTW thanks for all this great help! Today I am going to take off the UIM again and check those gromets.

What should I check on the T coil to make my tach work?

BlackN/A

I looked at the trailing coil and it seems OK, ie: All plugs are pluged no wires broken. Anyonw know exactly which wire(s) run the tach?

HAILERS

The tach signal is on a blue wire with a yellow stripe.

Go start the engine. PUll one of the sparkplug wires out of the Trail coil assy while the engine is running. You might, before starting the engine first pull one of the sparkplug wires out of the coil bore and then just barely reinsert it in the coil bore. That way when the engine is running you won't have to struggle getting the wire to come out.

Anyway, with the engine running, pull that wire out of the bore of the coil about a 1/8 inch or so and see if you see spark or not. Do the same with the other sparkplug wire. IF you see spark, then I don't see it being a coil problem but a disconnect b/t the blue/yellow wire to the gauge cluster.

OR, most any rotary will run on trail alone BUT run rough. So pull the lead plugs off and see if the engine starts. If it starts, then I'd suspect the trail coil is good.

Also there is a bullet connector near the trail coil assy. IT should NOT be connected to anything much less grounded like some have done on this forum.