fuel smell
12-23-10, 09:05 PM
#1
fuel smell
I need help finding where a fuel smell is coming from. It comes and goes... I think, or maybe I'm just used to it. Sometimes my eyes even sting. Already replaced the fuel pulsation dampener 40k ago and it doesn't seem to be leaking, but I'm gonna check again. Replaced a cat that supposedly had a hole in it, or maybe the exhaust shop was trying to rob me. Car passes smog. Where else should I check?
A/C has been leaking repeatedly, but I think the last hole of many was finally dealt with. I hope. Dunno if freon would smell the same.
A/C has been leaking repeatedly, but I think the last hole of many was finally dealt with. I hope. Dunno if freon would smell the same.
12-23-10, 09:10 PM
#3
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You can always Jump the Fuel connector and see if the System is leaking at or on the engine.
Key on..jump connector with a paper clip..it will Power the pump and create pressure so you can see if there are any leaks.
Key on..jump connector with a paper clip..it will Power the pump and create pressure so you can see if there are any leaks.
12-24-10, 02:59 PM
#6
Pressurize the fuel system via the yellow jumper. Let it run for 30min while you search for leaks. Obviously you will have to possibly pull off the upper intake manifold. Under no circumstance should you keep driving the car if the fuel smell is strong. If you didn't pressurize your fuel system before buttoning the fuel lines back up after your 40k pulsation dampner replacement, then its quite possible one of your fuel lines are leaking due to not being connected properly.
Check all your fuel lines from the fuel tank up to the fuel rails. (While system is pressurized)
Next, you are in california, so I am assuming you have the emissions systems still. Check the connections for the charcoal canister, if it's improperly connected, you will get fuel vapor smell in the engine bay.
Finally, if you are 100% sure there are no fuel leaks, the next step is to make sure your weather seals are in tact. If you have a coupe, the rear hatch seal can let fumes into the car if its bad. But I wouldn't do this step until you have verified everything else.
Check all your fuel lines from the fuel tank up to the fuel rails. (While system is pressurized)
Next, you are in california, so I am assuming you have the emissions systems still. Check the connections for the charcoal canister, if it's improperly connected, you will get fuel vapor smell in the engine bay.
Finally, if you are 100% sure there are no fuel leaks, the next step is to make sure your weather seals are in tact. If you have a coupe, the rear hatch seal can let fumes into the car if its bad. But I wouldn't do this step until you have verified everything else.
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12-25-10, 04:30 PM
#10
Does the smell correspond with the gas tank level? I am JUST RIGHT NOW finishing up replacing a gas tank that has rusted. In addition to the tank rust, the fuel vapor return to the gas tank filler was also rusted off. We got gas smell only if the tank was over half full.
This was a pretty dangerous situation.
I have replaced everything from the fuel filler to the fuel lines. The inside of the tank was amazingly clean and rust free, but the outside was frightening.
This was a canadian GXL that some how found it's way to Texas. I have learned there is no such thing as a cheap Rx7...
This was a pretty dangerous situation.
I have replaced everything from the fuel filler to the fuel lines. The inside of the tank was amazingly clean and rust free, but the outside was frightening.
This was a canadian GXL that some how found it's way to Texas. I have learned there is no such thing as a cheap Rx7...
12-25-10, 06:39 PM
#12
I'm probably imagining it but I think the smell is worse when my fuel is low. Thanks for pointing out the jumper I'll do an inspection as soon as I get some free time. In the mean time I'm going to make sure it's not the pulsation dampener. Are there any other places where a leak would be dangerous? The smell is bearable for me at least b/c I'm used to it; enough to forget it's there. Sounds like many others ignore it haha.
12-26-10, 06:03 PM
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There are many opportunities for fuel leaks under the hood, around the emissions components, fuel injector- to-rail seals (primaries are hard to see). I was recently bringing my '87 out of hibernation and found the fuel pump was frozen up. While fishing the pump out of the tank I decided to also replace the fuel line hoses on top of the tank. They were the originals - even had a 1986 date printed on the hoses! (If the smell is strong inside the car at speed it might be coming from this area.)
When looking for a fuel leak there are some tell-tales I look for. When fuel evaporates the most volatile components escape leaving behind an oily residue with an orange tinge that attracts dirt similar to an oil leak but not as obvious. Try to be thorough and systematic. Follow the lines from A to Z and back to A and you should find an obvious leak. If the vapors are stinging your eyes that's a LOT of gasoline. Good luck.
When looking for a fuel leak there are some tell-tales I look for. When fuel evaporates the most volatile components escape leaving behind an oily residue with an orange tinge that attracts dirt similar to an oil leak but not as obvious. Try to be thorough and systematic. Follow the lines from A to Z and back to A and you should find an obvious leak. If the vapors are stinging your eyes that's a LOT of gasoline. Good luck.
12-26-10, 08:21 PM
#16
i had a fuel smell, and i couldnt pass the emissions for inspection. I replaced the soft lines from the fuel pump but still failed. It turned out to be the small soft line near fuel neck. After i replaced that, it pressurized properly and when taking of the gas cap, it had a suction noise.
12-28-10, 11:21 AM
#17
It's usually not that bad of a smell and if I feel it in my eyes it's barely but ya I'll check it out. Dang it I have no free time lately to do this kind of thing. Too many other crazy things to take care of. Checked the paper towel under the fuel pulsation dampener this morning and it came out dry.
12-28-10, 12:03 PM
#20
Wouldn't take much cost wise or time wise to go and change your fuel lines to be safe. Do that, the PD eliminator mod and change your injector O-rings, also inspect your charcoal canister and the lines running to it. All cheap to do. while you have the manifold off you can do an emission simplification if you haven't and replace the coolant hoses.
12-28-10, 12:42 PM
#21
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Wow, thats a tough one. The going rate around here is $50-100 per hour. Independents are on the lower end, dealers at the top. Watch out because if you bring a car with an unknown problem to diagnose to a shop you don't know, your vulnerable. The guy can burn through your money "hunting" until you give up and ask for your car back - and the problem is still unknown. Until you find it there is no finite solution to the problem. Best to figure it out, then hire a mech.
Last edited by Cratecruncher; 12-28-10 at 12:45 PM.
12-28-10, 01:52 PM
#23
Wow, thats a tough one. The going rate around here is $50-100 per hour. Independents are on the lower end, dealers at the top. Watch out because if you bring a car with an unknown problem to diagnose to a shop you don't know, your vulnerable. The guy can burn through your money "hunting" until you give up and ask for your car back - and the problem is still unknown. Until you find it there is no finite solution to the problem. Best to figure it out, then hire a mech.
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