Terminator 2

Hey guys, been a while since I've posted. I'm keeping the T2, and was hoping I could get some help on installing a fuel shutoff. I think this will help my car be a little more driveable and help starting issues (I have to windmill the car a lot) and anyways, I am going to get a rebuilt motor or rebuild the one that's in it depending on the condition of rotor's and housings. I will keep everyone updated on that, but for now I'm having fun impressing chicks. Ha ha. Oh well, anyways, thanks in advance for all your help

PlayinW/Wankel

There is a 6-point connector under the dash right by the steering colum. Cut the middle wire, it is black with a white stripe. Make sure you leave enough wire hanging out so you can splice another wire onto both ends. Get a switch with two prongs on the end. Connect a length of wire onto one prong and splice to one of the ends of the cut wire, do the same with the other prong and another peice of wire. That should do it for you. To use it just flip the switch and let it stall out on its own. Then to start it, start cranking the engine then flip the switch while still cranking the engine, she should start right up. I had a flooding problem on my car until i installed one, now it starts right up every time. I you need more info do a search and you will find a lot of stuff about feul pump cut off switches. Hope I have helped.

portwolf

What kinda car are you talking about?

Keith

This should work on all RX-7's, 86-91. I am not sure if the color code on the wire is the same on an 89-91 (I don't have a wiring diagram), but it is the correct color code on an 86-88.

Irv, Keith's dad

Node

iTrader: (1)

Could you just turn the switch on before you crank the engine over. Or do you have to turn it on while cranking?

Also with a turbo timer could you just hook up the fuel cut switch (so it turns off the fuel cut switch when it shuts the car off) or just turn off the fuel pump and let turbo timer use up all of the fuel and eventually stop and cut off, and then the turbo timer stops.
I'd guess letting the turbo timer turn off the fuel would be a best idea, since would it be good for it to be going w/o fuel unattended like that.

Also how long does it take for all of the fuel to run out and the car to stall out.

flying taco

oops.... nevermind

Aaron

PlayinW/Wankel

I was talking about 86-88 NA's I think it is the same for 86-88 T2 models, but I dont know about 89-91 models. Node I havent tried turning it on before cranking, I have always read to turn it on while cranking so thats what I do. I will have to try it and see. Oh and it only takes a couple seconds for the car to stall after turning off the switch.

7Rebel

Yah ... That is what I do ... I flick the switch first and start cranking really quick so it dosn't have time to flood .... but doing it this way it still has a chance of flooding but a very small chance.

Can't help you on this .... maybe someone else can

just a few seconds .... not long at all

Node

iTrader: (1)

anyone else on the relay question?

getbent69

I've got a 86 GXL, with the classic flooding problem. Having never heard of it until it did it to me was not a plesant experiece. To fix this, I found the fuel pump in the rear, and installed a bypass switch into the centre console. You usually know with in a second or so if it's going to flood. I switch the ignition off flick the switch, crank the ignition, it fires, then turn the pump back on. Simple. Otherwise just put the throttle on the floor when it starts flooding, it'll start but you'll start going through plugs a little too quickly.

akageals

I kill the engine with the fuel switch (only take about 2 sec.). If the car sits more than 15 mins. it will actually start with the fuel switch in the off position...then I switch it on and it runs (works every time). If I try to start the car with the switch in the ON position it floods every time....and I just had the injectors rebuilt.

Todd

StarionX

I wish I had found this site a year ago. I have an 87 T2 that has the flooding problem. I found lots of conflicting information on the web. Local Mazda dealers were clueless. I found some info that seemed to point to leaking fuel injectors, so I actually replaced all 4 injectors (with new ones!). $1500CAN later, and I still had the same problem. I also found info about 'flooring' the throttle until it started. Well that killed a set of plugs and wires. Ended up just leaving the car running and locking the door whenever I went to the shops.
Eventually, I installed the fuel cut switch (this is the 'fix' that Mazda Canada recommended), and after some experimentation (and a fair bit of wire hacking by some not so knowledgable mechanics), I can finally get the car to start every time!

I have 100% ruled out an injector leak (the fact that I have new injectors is irrelevant), as I actually have the fuel cut switch inbetween the fuel pump and the battery (yes, the fuel pump has been hard wired to the battery... I found this out when I didn't use the fuel cut switch after parking the car, and tried to start it the next morning... dead battery. I tried the same thing again the next day, and sure enough, dead battery... ). So, if I use the fuel cut and let the engine die, then there should be no way that the engine can flood (fuel pump off). If I then turn the fuel pump on, then try to start the car, it won't because it has somehow flooded. Turn the pump off, turn the key straight away, the car starts up (of course at this point you need to turn the pump back on or the engine dies ).
The only thing that I can think of, is that the ECU is opening the injectors too wide, which is drowning the (now hot) engine. This would make the most sense to me, and have seen info about a 'warm-start' problem with the engine/ECU.

I would like to get some opinions as to what the actual problem is (and I apolagise if this topic has been 'flogged' before, but I'm new here.