Ok guys, I checked for OHMS at the fuel pump relay and the circuit opening relay. The numbers i got seemed to be in spec with the FSM. My first time using an OHM meter but im sure i did it correctly.

The only other thing I can think of is that when i put the Walbro in is that maybe the wires pulled out when putting the pump back in the tank. Im going to pull the pump out tomorrow and see if thats my problem.

But my question is, if the wires are still connected correctly on the pump, what else could be my problem on why the pump isnt getting power?

I have the black/ red stripe wire connected to the starter. I forgot to check if that wire is getting power. I will also do that tomorrow to check for power.

 

did you try jumpering the wire to make sure it goes?
also are you sure the wires to the pump are good and a fuse isn't blown?

 

I would definatly check your connections on the pump itself. Its all to easy to somehow snag one of the wires reinstalling the pump.

 

Umm, you check the 15A "engine" fuse?

Does the circuit opening relay click when the key is to start? Or when the yellow check connector is jumpered and the key turned to on?

Congrats on the meter use

 

yeah im gonna check the wires on the pump in the morning, im hopeing(sp?) thats all it is. I did check the 15A Engine fuse, its not blown, neither are the fuses in the engine bay.. (meaning the egi fuse etc...)

Where is the jumper located? i read that its like a yellow connector with 2 wires on it on the passanger side strut tower, but i didnt see it.

Also, I've never listen to see if it clicks when im trying to start the car. Im assuming that if it clicks its still good, and if not its bad?

 

Something like that. It actually has 2 different coils in it. One energizes from the start circuit, and the other energizes from the ground given it by the AFM door. It may be kinda hard to hear it click during start, which is why I noted the second option by jumpering the plug.

Since you're an expert with the meter now, why don't you just check for voltage back at the pump, at the plug located on the strut tower? If you get voltage there, that relay is good. Meter positive lead on/in the pin, neg lead on ground. I don't have the S5 schizmos, but since you now need to become an expert at reading Mazda electrical schematics, I figure you can look it up yourself

 

haha thanks wayne.... my friends dad printed me up the wiring crap for the fuel system and everything. I pulled the pump out today and hooked it up to power for a second and its fine.

Im going to check for power one more time at the plugs in a few minutes.

But this brings me to my next question. I recall there being a wire connected to my stock exhaust system when I was taking it off. I never hooked it back up because I thought it was just something to help hold the exhaust on. Is that a ground for anything important such as the fuel pump?

If thats a ground for the fuel pump and thats my problem, please I welcome you guys to come over my house and beat the hell outta me... lol

 

Make sure you switch your meter to "Volts" before trying to probe for 12 Volts (or your meter/fuse could blow!).
The schematic shows a commom ground (25) for the gas gauge and the pump. so if you find volts at the pump and it still doesnt run, check for a good ground to chassis. (Does the gauge still work?) That may mean removing it and polishing to bare metal. Coat the connection with vaseline to keep out moisture.
Did the old pump run before you changed it out? (something you did?)
Did you make sure the wiring plug is fully home?
Dave

 

could that be a ground that attaches to the exhaust system though?

I dont know if my old fuel pump ran before i changed it out because i bought the car with a blown motor.

im going to try and add that wire just incase.

*crosses fingers*

 

The fuel pump check connector is located near the right front strut tower. Closer to the afm than the strut. It has two sockets. It is YELLOW in color but might have a rubber boot covering it. Jumper one socket to the other.

Grounding the exaust has nadda to do with your problem.

Jumper the check connector. Turn the key to ON. Listen for the pump. Pump not running? Put your meters positive lead on the BLUE wire on the fuel pump connector. The half of the connector that comes from the chassis. It should have 12v when the car is configured as described above. Got 12v? Then see if the ground wire at that conenctor is good or not.

Do what the Drifter said above also.

 

The pump ground (along with a couple of other components) is a "gang" ground near the right tail light assy on the S4's.

The wire on the exhaust is a bonding jumper, not a ground. Its job is to make sure no static electricity builds up between the exhaust and the chassis.

Hailers is just rehashing what I told you above (he likes to do that, lol) but actually included wire colors for you to make life easier. If you have voltage there (after jumpering the plug, key on), and can read the ground wire at the plug to ground at a couple of ohms or less (meter on resistance, no power on), then your pump circuit is good. If you know the pump is good, that leaves the wiring between the connector and the pump, or the AFM door, but only the latter if she starts for a couple of seconds, then shuts down...

Actually, if you jumper that connector, turn the key on, and can hear the pump running with your ears back there, no voltage checks are necessary at the strut plug...

 

well, i jumpered the yellow connector, turned the key to ON and still didnt hear anything.

even though its dark outside, im gonna go and check for 12v at the connector on the strut because i found my flashlight...lol I really just want my car running.. grrrrrrr


EDIT: Ok. I just went outside to test the connector on the rear strut tower. I 1st tryed it WITHOUT the key turned to the ON position. I put the positive end of the tester in the socket where the blue wire ran, and the negative end of the tester in the socket with the black wire. The tester read between 15.2 and 16.0

Then I tested the blue and black wires WITH the key turned to the ON position. The numbers jumped back and forth all over the place. What I could make out was like it went from 11.9 then to like 1.559 (sme # like that) then like 115.2 (or some # like that)

 

ok, ive got a question.... if im too retarded to figure out this problem. Do you guys think I should just run new wires from the fuel pump to a switch where the fog light switch would be? so that i have a switch for it? I know my car isnt a racecar or anything, but its the only other think i can think of unless someone would like to come and fix it for me

 

These numbers were with the meter on volts???

You shouldn't be getting ANY voltage back there with the key off.

And use a chassis ground for the negative lead, instead of the black wire (just in case the pump's ground is bad- which you'll figure out soon enough if the proper voltage is found at the connector).

And no, I think you should figure out EXACTLY what the problem is, not run new wiring. This is not a complicated circuit

 

I shoulda said the large Blue wire on the connector on the chassis side of the plug. OR the Black/White wire on the fuel pump side of the connector.. They mate with eachother when the plugs are together.