agallardo

Hey guys, I have an 88' Mazda Rx7 N/a. Well I was driving home from a soccer game I had. Anyway, I met up with my brother cause he was out and we both drove back together. Well, yes I did floor it a couple times. But not too many. Anyway, we were about a mile away from home and I took a left onto a back-road and as soon as I took that left it started to 'bog' down. I tried to rev it in neutral and nothing. So i put it back in gear since I was still rolling and gave it some gas, but didnt really do much but kept it running. It kept bogging and stuttering. So my brother called my cell and told me to if my car was ok, and i said no obviously. Anyway, I just pulled over and turned it off. Well, i let it sit there for awhile and nothing! It would crank but not turn on. It seemed like it was gonna turn on, but NOTHING! I tried cleaning out the plugs cause I kinda figured it could have flooded and I have not changed the plugs in awhile.

Anyone know what it could be? A buddy told me that some Mazda's have a a fuel cut switch or something like that. Is there? If not, what could it be? Anything would help.

Osirus9

iTrader: (10)

did you try pulling the EGI fuse? It sounds like its flooded.

phoenix7

in the S4 it's the INJ. fuse not the EGI.

I think you have a huge vaccuum leak. Check your intake, the intake pipe and any hoses/vaccuum lines broken or disconnected.

agallardo

That fuse is in the engine bay right? So, just pull it and put it back in and try to turn it on?

phoenix7

well kinda. You pull it, then go into the car and crank the motor for 6-10 seconds, replace the fuse and try to turn it on, if it doesn't work then try another 2 times. If after a total of 3 times it doesn't work then start looking for vaccuum leaks ot other issues.

agallardo

Even if the fuse is not blown, should I replace it?

agallardo

Any other thoughts?

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

If the fuse isn't blown, there isn't a need to replace it; unless you really wanted to for some reason... the problem isn't with the fuse; pulling the fuse is just a way to burn off any excess fuel in the combustion chamber without pumping more in.... de-flooding.

agallardo

Well, I tried it, and nothing. Anything else I can do? I replaced the plugs too and they were extremely BLACK and had fuel on them. So i figured its flooded. So I replaced the plugs and nothing still.

Any more thoughts? PLEASE...

agallardo

Well, I pulled the plugs about an hour or two ago and tried to turn over the car with the plugs out to see if I can get rid of the extra fuel. And I just now put them back in, and tried to crank it. It turned on for a sec and heard a BIG POP and turned back off. (probably backfire) I also changed the plugs too. But now I am back to the same place. Still cranks, but doesnt turn on... ANYMORE SUGGESTIONS???

brianwarner983

ecu ground on top of engine? unfortunately that one is not easy to check. its under the UIM

phoenix7

I'm sorry. What I meant by REPLACE was PUT THE FUSE BACK. You're supposed to crank the car with the INJ. fuse OUT THEN out the fuse back in it's spot and try to turn the car on.

I already told you that if this doesn't work then you should check for vaccuum leaks. read my post above.

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

To help clarify, that fuse allows fuel to get into your engine. No fuse = no fuel. So you pull the fuse and crank to get the fuel out of your engine. Then you replace the fuse to start your car normally. Note that after several seconds of cranking you should stop for a couple minutes before cranking again, to let your starter motor cool down. Otherwise you could blow your starter motor.

agallardo

Thats what I meant to ask. Yeah man, I checked for vaccum leaks, but nothing. Then again, it could be anywhere. Do you really think a vaccum leak could have 'happened' like that? Taking a simple left turn? It really sucks. It would have to be a pretty big vaccum leak too huh? For it not to turn on?

phoenix7

imagine this: your intake pipe is loose but there is enough pressure flowing through the AFM to keep the car from stalling. You take a hard turn and the force loosens it up more and it disconnects and now your car has no signal from the AFM because no air is being sucked through it. The car will never start.

agallardo

Afm?

Spectator

iTrader: (1)

I bet you have poor compression.

But before paniking, or checking for a vaccuum leak (which is probably the case ), follow these steps carefully:

-Pull out the EGI/INJ fuse (Phoenix, I have an S4 and its EGI :p )
-Pull out all 4 plugs
-Crank engine for atleast 40 seconds or until the white mist stps coming out of the engine
-Put the plugs back in THE RIGHT PLACE ( Trailing and leading plugs)
-Put back the EGI fuse
-Try to start the car.

If that doesn't work, then :

-Pull out the EGI/INJ fuse
-Pull out all 4 plugs
-Crank engine for atleast 40 seconds or until the white mist stps coming out of the engine
-put one once of 20w50 oil directly in each trailing plug hole
-Put the plugs back in THE RIGHT PLACE ( Trailing and leading plugs)
-Crank the engine 3 seconds
-Put back the EGI fuse
-Try to start the car.

If that doesn't work, check for a vaccum leak...and have fun. Hope you dont have the sneaky ninja vaccuum leak.

agallardo

I have 2 EGI fuses. The EGI COMP. and the EGI INJ. Do I pull both or just the EGI INJ one?

phoenix7

pull the INJ. one. You really just want to stop the injectors from pumping more fuel into the flooded engine and flood it some more.

DO NOT CRANK for longer than 10 seconds ( remember you can blow your starter motor by cranking it like that and 6-10 seconds for a total of 3 times should be more than enough to unflood)

I have never had a car flooded badly enough to do the steps that FC3S and I honestly have never heard of the 20w/50 trick ( i know there is an ATF trick but about the oil, I think it might foul your plugs.)

I honestly think you need to starch checking hoses and pipes. AS I said earlier, start at your air filter and work your way back to the engine and look all over the place.

If you find that your car IS flooded than I sugggest you go to a junkyard, pull the injectors from a car of your series (S4: 86-88) and send them out to be cleaned and install them so it doesn't happen again.

phoenix7

or future refence:

on the S5 if you STEP on the gas all the way to the floor it disables the injectors. This step avoids having to pull the EGi fuse.

AFM= AIR FLOW METER. It's between your air filter and your intake pipe. It gives the airflow signal to the ECU in order to pump the right amount of fuel for stock air to fuel ratios.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/frequently-asked-questions-2nd-generation-rx-7-faq-fc-494667/

Spectator

iTrader: (1)

I suggested 20w50 just to boost compression on start up. The reason I did not say ATF is that if the car doesn't start, the ATF wont get burned off and the ATF will eat away the seals after a while if the car doesn't start soon.

phoenix7

that's right, you mentioned loss of compression (which is messed up to say to a noobie freaking out about his car ) either way, he should do a compression check before freaking out. I am trying to rule out flooding and vaccuum leaks in order to move on to serious issues but I'm not sure how thorough he is in his search for vaccuum leaks.

Spectator

iTrader: (1)

Yea, indeed.

But flooding disipates the oil in the rotors which reduces compression. Just trying to give it a head start.

phoenix7

well, let's wait and see what he comes up with.

agallardo

Well, I tried the 20w50 trick and nothing. Still didnt turn on. Still keeps cranking, but doesnt turn on.

Well, I also have a fuel pressure gauge in the engine bay too. I read in the manual that it should be somewhere between 34.1 to 39.8. Something like that. Should I be reading fuel pressure when cranking? If so, its not reading anything when I try to crank...