2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Fuel problem?

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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 05:45 PM
  #26  
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Well, technicaly, you should have fuel pressure when you crank. But does it usualy show when you crank or only when running? You tell me.

When you say you tried the 20w50 trick, did you do it in the steps mentionned?

When you turn the key to on, does the idiot cluster light up?

When you pull the plugs, do they smell like gas? If not, maybe your fuel pump died.

Did you check for leaks? Meaning you check everywhere to see if a hose is unplugged and/or cracked. Is your Air flow meter plugged in?

Did you check if you have spark?

And most importantly, Do you have gas in the tank?

Dont worry, we'll find the problem.
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 05:51 PM
  #27  
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unplug your TPS and then plug it back in, i had this same problem.
it could be the dirt on the contacts finally got the best of it and threw the car for a loop. unplugging it will remove any dirt in the contact where it actually touches the female spade inside the corresponding plug and will give a good connection.

it should do the trick. if not then the TPS might need adjustment or replacement as all the other suggestions didnt work.

if it doesnt work then it might be time to change the fuel filter.... if that doesnt work, fuel pump
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 05:57 PM
  #28  
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EDIT:nm
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 06:07 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by F.C.3S
Well, technicaly, you should have fuel pressure when you crank. But does it usualy show when you crank or only when running? You tell me.

When you say you tried the 20w50 trick, did you do it in the steps mentionned?

When you turn the key to on, does the idiot cluster light up?

When you pull the plugs, do they smell like gas? If not, maybe your fuel pump died.

Did you check for leaks? Meaning you check everywhere to see if a hose is unplugged and/or cracked. Is your Air flow meter plugged in?

Did you check if you have spark?

And most importantly, Do you have gas in the tank?

Dont worry, we'll find the problem.
I dont know if it shows when cranking. I cant remember. I figured you guys would know. LOL! Well, it doesnt. But I tried pumping the gas a couple times, then holding the accelerator/gas pedal down while turning on and it cranked for a sec and then died out. After that happened, the pressure read about 40psi.

Yes I did the steps in order for the '20w50 trick.'

Idiot cluster? Just the odometer? Yes everything works. The oil pressure gauge goes up, the gas gauge goes up. Etc.

When I pull the plugs, yes it smells like gas.

I have not check spark YET. I guess thats next.

Yes I have gas. About 1/2 a tank, maybe a little less.
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 06:08 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by cptpain
unplug your TPS and then plug it back in, i had this same problem.
it could be the dirt on the contacts finally got the best of it and threw the car for a loop. unplugging it will remove any dirt in the contact where it actually touches the female spade inside the corresponding plug and will give a good connection.

it should do the trick. if not then the TPS might need adjustment or replacement as all the other suggestions didnt work.

if it doesnt work then it might be time to change the fuel filter.... if that doesnt work, fuel pump
Lets give this a shot...

Last edited by agallardo; Jul 30, 2007 at 06:17 PM.
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 06:22 PM
  #31  
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If that doesn't work, and you have spark, I suggest you take a compression test...and cross your fingers.
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 06:50 PM
  #32  
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did you say you pumped the gas then held it down?? that floods your car more.

are you following the unflooding procedure correctly?

Do not take your TPS apart (unplug it if you want) because you'll need a voltmeter to get it back to specs.
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 07:33 PM
  #33  
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Well, I read that somewhere in the manual. I also found out that I do have spark and fuel pressure too. I tried unflooding it since yesterday too. And about the TPS, i just unplugged it to check to see if I had power going through it. I used a test light. Does that mean that I still need to use a voltmeter to get it back to specs?
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 07:41 PM
  #34  
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If you just unplugged it, no you dont need too.

Now do a compression test. Please.
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 07:49 PM
  #35  
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Thats what I am afraid of. LOL! Its gotta wait til tomorrow though, cause I have no compression tester and the auto parts store closed.
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Old Jul 31, 2007 | 04:02 PM
  #36  
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What should the compression numbers be?
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Old Jul 31, 2007 | 04:27 PM
  #37  
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90 PSI to 120 PSI

or 6.5 to 8.5 kg/cm2

Bellow 90 PSI it's almost dead.
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 10:58 AM
  #38  
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Well, you guys were right. It read between 50psi to 60 psi each one. So I am not too happy.

Any TII motors up for sale? I guess now is the time for that TII swap...
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 11:11 AM
  #39  
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Ha! On my first post. Anyhow, sorry for the bad news...but take it as good news, you will now have a turbo car!

And, yes, you can find J-spec motors pretty much anywhere, from 1000$ to 1500$. Most imporatnt thing first is to TAKE THE COMPRESSION! And pace yourself, dont buy the first one you see, get the best one you can. I got mine with 120 PSI on all rotors. Its freaking brand new. And I saw like 12 before I bought this one.

And before all else, read this:

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...to_turbo2.html

All your questions should be answered there.

Good luck, and if you have any other questions, feel free to PM me, I did that swap.
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 01:52 PM
  #40  
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sorry to hear man.
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 11:22 PM
  #41  
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Well, i found out today that my fuel pump is bad. I was not getting fuel... Is that possible why it read bad? And my rx7 mechanic suggested to rev it between 4k and 5k rpms if i get it to start. And I got it to start once from pumping the gas several times and holding it down and turning it on. It shot up to about 4-6k rpms and i kept revving it there. My question for that is, how did i get it to keep revving if i was not getting gas? And my fuel filter was also on backwards...
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 11:29 PM
  #42  
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50-60, it could let go at any time.

Always compression test before buying.
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Old Aug 3, 2007 | 12:24 AM
  #43  
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Fuel pump only runs if the key is HELD to START or the engine is actually running.

An engine that is flooded will read low compression. Do it again after the engine has run and fully warmed up and has not been flooded.
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Old Aug 4, 2007 | 09:23 PM
  #44  
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Can someone please tell me where my fuel pump relay is located? And if possible what numbers show up on the relay itself?
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Old Aug 4, 2007 | 10:29 PM
  #45  
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Someone?
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Old Aug 5, 2007 | 06:49 AM
  #46  
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bump
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Old Aug 5, 2007 | 08:09 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by F.C.3S
90 PSI to 120 PSI

or 6.5 to 8.5 kg/cm2

Bellow 90 PSI it's almost dead.
Almost dead?
I think not.
My NA engine only shows 80PSI and it has no starting issues (hot or cold), doesn't consume oil (other than what it's supposed to) and doesn't overheat...other than the low numbers, you'd think it was fine.
She just finished a 3000 mile vacation trip (averaged 25.7MPG, in fact) without incident.

Below 90psi is obviously not optimal but hardly "almost dead".
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Old Aug 5, 2007 | 11:49 AM
  #48  
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Anyone know where the fuel pump relay is located?
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 02:53 PM
  #49  
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did you ever find out what was wrong?
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