1989 vert

So for awhile my fuel door was really hard to open and i had to lift the lever all the way to the top to open the door.

a couple months ago it finally stopped working. I examined it again and it fell off the release by the door itself so i re installed it and it still didnt work.

i gave up for a few months out of laziness so now im back at it after being annoyed by opening my trunk to open the fuel door and i attempted to remove the release handles on the floor and noticed the cable is off the fuel door handle but not the trunk, so now i cant pull out the handle enough to reach the cable for the fuel door.

any suggestions on how to remove the handles or even give some wiggle room ? also how easy is the install of a new cable ?

and while im here what is the part# for the fuel door release as im looking at mazdas parts department online and i cant find a #

thanks

 

so i called mazda and they gave me this part number FB02-56-850E/D for the cable plus release and trunk release cable as well all together...

i googled a quick image and the cable looks like it has a ball end fitting instead of a T type end fitting.

i also found this part number just for the cable FB01-56-870B on atkins but mazda says they dont list that part ...

i really dont want to replace both cables as i imagine its a PITA with all the old plastic trim.

 

Same thing happened to my 90 GXL maybe 10-12 years ago. Condensation inside the cable caused the cable to corrode and freeze-up. I just removed the lock from the fuel door. There's only one nut that holds it on. I bought replacement cable assembly, but after looking at how much interior I'd have to remove to replace I gave-up in laziness too.

 

I have fixed various hood, trunk, and gas door cables in all types of cars I've owned. Get both ends free and put some oil on the end of the cable that is the highest so gravity helps. jack the cable back and forth to work the oil down into the cable sheath.

In your case, pull the cable at the gas door, add some oil and pull it the other way (release handle end). You might need pliers or vise grips on the ball or cylinder, whichever is on yours. You might need a helper. Jack it back and forth a few times, add more oil, repeat until free.

It may or may not work. If it doesn't, it's replacement time.

 

Older motorcycles (and probably today;s bicycles) used cables and there was a clever little cable oiler that slid over the inner cable and was recessed for the outer housing...it accepted the tube from an aerosol can (like DeepCreep or WD40) and all the oil spray is forced into the sheathing.
Very inexpensive little gizmo that would surely work in this case.

Hot Dog is correct about all the plastic you'll be removing (or more likely, breaking) if you have to replace the entire cable, so if you can keep the original in situ, you're much better off.

 

just the fuel door is FB67-56-940F and both together are FB67-56-920G

 

So I learned the cheap *** way, you know, it was cheap, the stuff was there. I forgot to say though, if the cable becomes frayed and the fraying gets caught in the sheath, you're screwed.

 

I came across "cable ends" when I wanted to hook up my 302 to the gas pedal.
If the cable isn't fraying all to **** I would consider looking into an end to take up the slack.

 

it appears to be coming off the the clips behind the panel as when i pulled the cable with pliers i could hear it popping off the clips.

it appears it may even be stretched. it is for sure a bit seized as i have to pull hard to release it but it may also because its not being held down, either way ill lube her up.

i was wondering if i could pull the slack by zip tying it to the car in the trunk, do you think that could work?

i got her attached to the lever and the door but there isnt enough travel in the lever to release it.