SexInDaRex

What's up people!!!!!!

I need some suggestions as to what switch to buy. I know it has to be rated at least 25amps.

Thanks.

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

Ask Kevin, he'll tell ya.

SexInDaRex

i was wondering if anyone had a particular one they liked.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

meh, flight switches are cool.

But you don't need a heavy duty 25-30amp switch....just get a relay.

Syonyk

If you interrupt the current at the relay instead of the main feed to the pump, you don't need much of a switch at all.

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...nflooding.html

-=Russ=-

SexInDaRex

so that way I can use any amp rated switch?

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

yeah, i believe a good place to splice it in is under the dash by your right knee at the yellow and white relay connector. i put the switch inside the ash tray so it couldn't be hit while driving.

NZConvertible

The switch doesn't need to be rated at 25A, the stock fuel pump only pulls ~8A. Any switch that is rated for 10A or more will be fine.

That won't work very well because the circuit opening relay has two coils, one gets power from the start circuit and one gets power from the AFM's airflow switch. It's easier and more effective to simply cut the fuel pump's power.

This pic shows the circuit opening relay. It’s a located under the dash next to the steering column and has a yellow base.



The B wire (black with a white stripe) is the power supply and the Fp wire (blue with a red stripe) goes to the fuel pump. The switch can go into either of these wires, it doesn’t matter which. Simply cut the wire, extend each cut end to your chosen switch location using the same or thicker gauge wire and terminate them onto the switch. Note that the STA wire is also black with a white stripe, but it’s thinner. Make sure you get the right wire.

It makes sense to keep the wires to the switch short. The small panel with the crotch vent is an ideal mounting spot because it's close to the relay and won't be accidently bumped.

SexInDaRex

Thanks brother!!