Front/Rear bumper black trim paint
12-08-16, 11:37 PM
#1
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Front/Rear bumper black trim paint
So on the S4 cars is the black trim on the bumpers integrated into the bumper? It looks like it is to me since the black is wearing off. If so how would you repaint that? Is it just painted with a satin finish?
Also, any tips on a where to get a fairly priced tasteful lip spoiler? Saw a corksport one I liked but they apparently don't sell them anymore.
Thanks ladies/gents.
Also, any tips on a where to get a fairly priced tasteful lip spoiler? Saw a corksport one I liked but they apparently don't sell them anymore.
Thanks ladies/gents.
12-09-16, 10:06 PM
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12-11-16, 07:48 AM
#5
When the black wears off you get the color of the bumper or yellow, spraying silicone spray on it will only create a nightmare paint contamination issue for when you want to repair it
Mask it, trim black , and its fixed for years
If you want the moldings shinier after that rub or spray whatever you want over it but when you see how nice the trim black looks on the molding you will want to do the wiper arms and other parts too.
I also use krylon "semi flat black" its almost same as trim black but i think it looks kind of like satin finish anodize . Use it on the wipers of all my cars
Mask it, trim black , and its fixed for years
If you want the moldings shinier after that rub or spray whatever you want over it but when you see how nice the trim black looks on the molding you will want to do the wiper arms and other parts too.
I also use krylon "semi flat black" its almost same as trim black but i think it looks kind of like satin finish anodize . Use it on the wipers of all my cars
12-11-16, 09:54 AM
#6
When the black wears off you get the color of the bumper or yellow, spraying silicone spray on it will only create a nightmare paint contamination issue for when you want to repair it
Mask it, trim black , and its fixed for years
If you want the moldings shinier after that rub or spray whatever you want over it but when you see how nice the trim black looks on the molding you will want to do the wiper arms and other parts too.
I also use krylon "semi flat black" its almost same as trim black but i think it looks kind of like satin finish anodize . Use it on the wipers of all my cars
Mask it, trim black , and its fixed for years
If you want the moldings shinier after that rub or spray whatever you want over it but when you see how nice the trim black looks on the molding you will want to do the wiper arms and other parts too.
I also use krylon "semi flat black" its almost same as trim black but i think it looks kind of like satin finish anodize . Use it on the wipers of all my cars
Buy it in a quart or a gallon. A gallon goes a long, long long long way.
Spray it with a HVLP touch up gun. Before painting wash, wash again. Wipe thoroughly with paint thinner, then alcohol then wax remover last. Mask all the way around. Spray one coat of adhesion promoter.
Mix 10% acetone and 10% odorless paint thinner, 80% rustoleum.
Ok, now i am gonna start a discussion/controversy. I painted my 87 gxl last summer. The car is a Canadian GXL. I bought it as a beater/college car. It had been hailed heavily and had typical Canadian rust...holes in the rear fender, bubbles on the sunroof etc. I did minimal body work. I just fixed some surface chips that had rust (sanded and killed the rust), filled other chips. I did not fill any dents since the car was covered with hail dents. I cleaned it with wax remover then hand sanded it with 600 grit. Then I painted it with my HVLP gun and....
Rustoleum!
I thinned it with 10% Acetone and 10% oder-less Mineral Spirits. The thinning reduced the viscosity so it could be sprayed. The Acetone flashes off fast and the Mineral Spirits linger a little longer, just long enough to let the enamel level out nicely. BTW, I masked the whole car and then used my touch up hvlp gun to paint each panel separately.
I spent $35 on the gallon of paint and $20 on the acetone and mineral spirits. I used only about 1-1/2 quart of the paint, it was 'reduced' to make about just less than 2 quarts. I could paint another car out of the gallon.
Pretty ghetto? Maybe. But for a daily beater, I would do it again. I could not have justified any kind of professional paint on this car, but right now, 6 mos later the car still shines and looks good. Does it have the deep shine of 'real paint'? No. Does it look 100% even maybe 1000% better than the car looked before? A resounding yes. This is not a rattle can job. This is not the in-famous '$50 paint job with a roller' paint job either. The car is shiny. I have not buffed it at all.Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics, but if you saw better pics, you would be more impressed, not less.
Discussion to ensue!
Rustoleum!
I thinned it with 10% Acetone and 10% oder-less Mineral Spirits. The thinning reduced the viscosity so it could be sprayed. The Acetone flashes off fast and the Mineral Spirits linger a little longer, just long enough to let the enamel level out nicely. BTW, I masked the whole car and then used my touch up hvlp gun to paint each panel separately.
I spent $35 on the gallon of paint and $20 on the acetone and mineral spirits. I used only about 1-1/2 quart of the paint, it was 'reduced' to make about just less than 2 quarts. I could paint another car out of the gallon.
Pretty ghetto? Maybe. But for a daily beater, I would do it again. I could not have justified any kind of professional paint on this car, but right now, 6 mos later the car still shines and looks good. Does it have the deep shine of 'real paint'? No. Does it look 100% even maybe 1000% better than the car looked before? A resounding yes. This is not a rattle can job. This is not the in-famous '$50 paint job with a roller' paint job either. The car is shiny. I have not buffed it at all.Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics, but if you saw better pics, you would be more impressed, not less.
Discussion to ensue!
Last edited by jackhild59; 12-11-16 at 10:00 AM.
12-11-16, 12:41 PM
#7
That looks quite respectable, regardless of price.
Paint has become a real issue for me, I have an increasingly difficult time justifying the expense of what is a purely cosmetic but massively expensive part of the car.
I'd wager that for most builds, paint and bodywork is by far the biggest chunk of the budget and that's not accounting for the endless upkeep costs that begin immediately upon road use.
Who can deny that a little bit of their soul dies every time a rock dings the bodypanels?
Even worse, an inordinate percentage of a car's perceived value is tied up in the paint condition.
Could be exquisite mechanically but "bad" paint decreases the value far out of proportion to it's contribution to utility.
Having been conditioned to place such importance on purely visual features has lead us to the marketing of the modern car, which consists mainly of touting the various connectivity modes and completely ignores any mention of the mechanicals.
Cars have become a very expensive Apple peripheral and like all Apple products, looks matter more than anything else.
This has been a very roundabout endorsement of Jack's cheap paint job and my use of Plastidip.
Stand with us as we face the unyielding force of Big Paint and reclaim the value of machinery.
Or not...whatever.
Paint has become a real issue for me, I have an increasingly difficult time justifying the expense of what is a purely cosmetic but massively expensive part of the car.
I'd wager that for most builds, paint and bodywork is by far the biggest chunk of the budget and that's not accounting for the endless upkeep costs that begin immediately upon road use.
Who can deny that a little bit of their soul dies every time a rock dings the bodypanels?
Even worse, an inordinate percentage of a car's perceived value is tied up in the paint condition.
Could be exquisite mechanically but "bad" paint decreases the value far out of proportion to it's contribution to utility.
Having been conditioned to place such importance on purely visual features has lead us to the marketing of the modern car, which consists mainly of touting the various connectivity modes and completely ignores any mention of the mechanicals.
Cars have become a very expensive Apple peripheral and like all Apple products, looks matter more than anything else.
This has been a very roundabout endorsement of Jack's cheap paint job and my use of Plastidip.
Stand with us as we face the unyielding force of Big Paint and reclaim the value of machinery.
Or not...whatever.
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12-11-16, 01:49 PM
#8
Red Pill Dealer
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I know people that pulled their own trim, scuffed and fixed dings, masked the car and got the cheapo MAACO paint job. I was surprised how good some of them looked. They'll even work with you (or used to) if you wanted a good base instead of the base/clear. I know some guys that swore by them but you're the one that does all the prep.
12-11-16, 01:58 PM
#9
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I know people that pulled their own trim, scuffed and fixed dings, masked the car and got the cheapo MAACO paint job. I was surprised how good some of them looked. They'll even work with you (or used to) if you wanted a good base instead of the base/clear. I know some guys that swore by them but you're the one that does all the prep.
i did my FC at maaco, and its not prefect by any stretch, but for $400 it was worth every penny.
12-11-16, 02:57 PM
#10
I know people that pulled their own trim, scuffed and fixed dings, masked the car and got the cheapo MAACO paint job. I was surprised how good some of them looked. They'll even work with you (or used to) if you wanted a good base instead of the base/clear. I know some guys that swore by them but you're the one that does all the prep.
I once had a car redone at Maaco. 87 mazda 626 GT Turbo. It was an insurance job (hail) and was about $3800 after my $500 deductible, so $4300 total. They supposedly used the highest quality paint they had available, too. I insisted on looking the work over before paying my deductible and signing off. There was a HUGE curly hair stuck right in the middle of the hood. They acted all surprised. Turns out the painter had a full beard.
The manager offered to 'buff it out'. I insisted they repaint and re-clear the hood which they finally did.That paint job didn't age well at all. A couple of years later the car was trash because of the paint.
I've done an FC with 'proper' paint as well. I used PPG. On my Vert I sanded to the metal, etch primed, removed every dent and door ding. I made every panel strait, primered, sanded, painted, wet-sanded, painted, wet-sanded, buffed, buffed etc.
I discovered that I'm a hard-working, fast-learning bad painter.
The paint looks good still 12 years later. It was a lot of work but worth every bit of effort.
Last edited by jackhild59; 12-11-16 at 03:00 PM.