front eshaft bolt
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Joined: Jan 2007
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From: st. louis
front eshaft bolt
Ok the ****ing thing is stuck. I tried impacting it. Impacting it forward then backward. Torching it then impacting. using a 10ft cheater bar. What is the next step. This thing is pissing me off. Maybe go rent a REALLY big impact gun? I searched and found some stuff but maybe you all have some new inspiration on how to get the damn thing off.
thnaks
thnaks
Get yourself a small propane/map gas torch (the kind you'd use for sweat fitting copper pipe or something), and heat that bitch up for a good 10-15 minutes until the bolt is red hot.
It will melt the bond of the loctite/thread locker they put on from the factory/each build.
It will melt the bond of the loctite/thread locker they put on from the factory/each build.
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what we tried with my friend's 86 NA motor was a crowbar stuck in the back of the flywheel. made sure the engine wouldn't turn and broke the bolt lose with a breaker bar
We tried an impact too, I recommend my method with a breaker bar. Of course we really didn't care about the flywheel being damaged, lol.
We tried an impact too, I recommend my method with a breaker bar. Of course we really didn't care about the flywheel being damaged, lol.
this is the impact wrench I use, I know it's cheap quality but I have been using it for about 5 years now. I run it on my little 11gal pancake compressor and get about 3 good blows per tank.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95141
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95141
I had one really stubborn one... .just took a LOT of impacting..... had a 600ft/lb impact wrench that I just had on constant...
I have a 60gal air compressor though... @135psi, that thing really hammers... but, with the combination of heat, impact, and then a huge breaker bar and some good sockets, you should be able to get it.
Do you have a nice solid place to mount it? Stick a huge cheater bar on there.... it'll eventually give. drink a couple of beers, get a couple friends over to hold the engine down.. and jump on the cheater bar. Thats how I worked on my jeep.
I have a 60gal air compressor though... @135psi, that thing really hammers... but, with the combination of heat, impact, and then a huge breaker bar and some good sockets, you should be able to get it. Do you have a nice solid place to mount it? Stick a huge cheater bar on there.... it'll eventually give. drink a couple of beers, get a couple friends over to hold the engine down.. and jump on the cheater bar. Thats how I worked on my jeep.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,000
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From: st. louis
While i was at work my dad managed to get it free. Just to help everyone out that has to deal with this here is what he did.
1. take 19mm socket and grind two flat spots on the side. (i broke my breaker bar on this the day before and my dad is impatient)
2. lock the flywheel using a 1x3 u channel bolted to the flywheel and pressing up against a board pressing up against the post on the engine stand.
3. put the socket on the front eshaft bolt and attach a monkey wrench to it.
4. make sure the stand can not move. he accomplished this by using various pieces of wood bolted to a work bench and a chain attached to an anchor (he decided to wrap it around my wheel or something... im not clear on what he did)
5. attach a 10 foot piece of pipe to the end of the wrench and push, hard.
that popped that dumb bolt free... hopefully i can convince sears to replace my brand new 19mm socket that my dad ground the sides off of....
Anyway i hope this helps people in the future.
1. take 19mm socket and grind two flat spots on the side. (i broke my breaker bar on this the day before and my dad is impatient)
2. lock the flywheel using a 1x3 u channel bolted to the flywheel and pressing up against a board pressing up against the post on the engine stand.
3. put the socket on the front eshaft bolt and attach a monkey wrench to it.
4. make sure the stand can not move. he accomplished this by using various pieces of wood bolted to a work bench and a chain attached to an anchor (he decided to wrap it around my wheel or something... im not clear on what he did)
5. attach a 10 foot piece of pipe to the end of the wrench and push, hard.
that popped that dumb bolt free... hopefully i can convince sears to replace my brand new 19mm socket that my dad ground the sides off of....
Anyway i hope this helps people in the future.
what i did was lock the flywheel and use a 3/4" gun. over 1000 ft/lbs on that sucker. if it was in the car you could have just propped a breaker bar on the bolt against the body and cranked the car( make sure you have it going in the right direction or the breaker bar will slap someone in the head) the sudden torque of the starter will break it loose.
Get yourself a small propane/map gas torch (the kind you'd use for sweat fitting copper pipe or something), and heat that bitch up for a good 10-15 minutes until the bolt is red hot.
It will melt the bond of the loctite/thread locker they put on from the factory/each build.
It will melt the bond of the loctite/thread locker they put on from the factory/each build.
blue
I removed it the same way I removed the flywheel nut.
1. Put engine in back of pickup/Subaru/whatever.
2. Drive to local truck shop (that works on big rigs).
3. Ask if they can pop a few things loose.
4. Pull in side garage entrance and pop hatch.
5. Point at flywheel nut and front pulley bolt. Answer the inevitable question, "Yes, that is, in fact, an engine."
6. Observe 1000+ ft/lb impact wrenches with 1" drives make short work of both.
7. Slip the guy a $10.
-=Russ=-
1. Put engine in back of pickup/Subaru/whatever.
2. Drive to local truck shop (that works on big rigs).
3. Ask if they can pop a few things loose.
4. Pull in side garage entrance and pop hatch.
5. Point at flywheel nut and front pulley bolt. Answer the inevitable question, "Yes, that is, in fact, an engine."
6. Observe 1000+ ft/lb impact wrenches with 1" drives make short work of both.
7. Slip the guy a $10.
-=Russ=-
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