Front e-shaft bolt will not come out!
#1
Ban Peak
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Front e-shaft bolt will not come out!
Hey guys, I have a reman in my GTUs and the front main seal is leaking real bad. I can't get the 19mm bolt out at all. I rocked on it with an 18v snap on 1/2" impact and after that didn't work, I tried resting a breaker bar on the frame rail and turning the engine over to no avail. It would just stop the starter.
Before I put heat on it, I just wanted to see if any of you have had one this hard to get out. I did the front main on my turbo car and it was a piece of cake.
Also, should I be careful about putting heat on it? I was going to slowly heat it up with mapp gas and the hit it with the cordless impact.
Thanks!
Before I put heat on it, I just wanted to see if any of you have had one this hard to get out. I did the front main on my turbo car and it was a piece of cake.
Also, should I be careful about putting heat on it? I was going to slowly heat it up with mapp gas and the hit it with the cordless impact.
Thanks!
#5
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Hey guys, I have a reman in my GTUs and the front main seal is leaking real bad. I can't get the 19mm bolt out at all. I rocked on it with an 18v snap on 1/2" impact and after that didn't work, I tried resting a breaker bar on the frame rail and turning the engine over to no avail. It would just stop the starter.
Before I put heat on it, I just wanted to see if any of you have had one this hard to get out. I did the front main on my turbo car and it was a piece of cake.
Also, should I be careful about putting heat on it? I was going to slowly heat it up with mapp gas and the hit it with the cordless impact.
Thanks!
Before I put heat on it, I just wanted to see if any of you have had one this hard to get out. I did the front main on my turbo car and it was a piece of cake.
Also, should I be careful about putting heat on it? I was going to slowly heat it up with mapp gas and the hit it with the cordless impact.
Thanks!
Last edited by rx7_FREAKKK; 01-01-12 at 02:59 AM.
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#9
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I should ad that i had to get an Impact 19mm socket. and long wrench. because i did break tools on that eshaft bolt. Two sockets and two wrenches.,
However if the engine is in the car it makes it a bit tricky. Because Unless you can stick somthing in the flywheel its hard to keep the engine from turning. Even if its in gear the car will want to move. and its hard to get real power on that bolt
However if the engine is in the car it makes it a bit tricky. Because Unless you can stick somthing in the flywheel its hard to keep the engine from turning. Even if its in gear the car will want to move. and its hard to get real power on that bolt
Last edited by rx7_FREAKKK; 01-01-12 at 08:23 AM.
#10
Sharp Claws
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heat
on many engines i have to heat up the bolt flange for several minutes with MAP gas, when that doesn't work after a few attempts i have to break out the oxy acetylene torch and heat it up until the bolt is nearly glowing. if you have to heat it up this much, replace the thermal pellet because it will likely have been damaged.
the bolt tends to tighten itself over time, this is common and you can't be a pansy about how much torque and heat you apply in many cases.
on many engines i have to heat up the bolt flange for several minutes with MAP gas, when that doesn't work after a few attempts i have to break out the oxy acetylene torch and heat it up until the bolt is nearly glowing. if you have to heat it up this much, replace the thermal pellet because it will likely have been damaged.
the bolt tends to tighten itself over time, this is common and you can't be a pansy about how much torque and heat you apply in many cases.
#12
Sharp Claws
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if that all fails then you need to remove the radiator and get a BIG impact gun and a good air compressor, or yank the engine and take it to a shop with decent tools at which point you may as well reseal the pan and rear main.
#15
Sharp Claws
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it has definitely doesn't hurt. in some cases heat is about the only thing you can do rather than spend a day making a special tool that may still wind up breaking.
i have a few broken, bent, twisted, mangled, eaten up and spat out breaker bars from that stupid bolt. torch and 1/2" MAC impact with 140psi of line pressure has yet to fail, in some cases the oil was starting to cook and the thermal pellet basically fell apart upon removal.
i have a few broken, bent, twisted, mangled, eaten up and spat out breaker bars from that stupid bolt. torch and 1/2" MAC impact with 140psi of line pressure has yet to fail, in some cases the oil was starting to cook and the thermal pellet basically fell apart upon removal.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 01-01-12 at 12:23 PM.
#16
The waiting game......
iTrader: (18)
This helped so much, as I used all 4 bolts to hold it in place. The bar is suppose to be on the bottom side of the pulley (oops), but it worked out well since it did what it should have done (which was hold the crank from moving) But I'm sure if you have access to a lift, you can put that on and use a breaker bar from underneath the car.
#17
Ban Peak
Thread Starter
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Dang guys, I didn't think everyone really had this much trouble with that bolt. On my 91' Turbo the bolt had a locking ring, and after taking the ring off I got it out with the fully charged 1/2" snap on impact on the first try.
The engine currently is in the car and is a Mazda Reman with about 16k on it. On tuesday I'm going to use Mapp gas and the fully charged impact, if that doesn't work i'm going to use heat and the breaker bar method. If that doesn't work, the rad is coming out and it's going to be a Snap On air impact w/ heat.
I do have two more questions after all you comments.
Karack mentioned replaced the thermal pellet. Is that still necessary to do if I'm going to shim it open?
Also, Should I get a new bolt? When I did the crank bolt on my Audi I had to replace the crank bolt. But the torque on that thing was 300Ft/lbs plus a 1/4 turn.
The engine currently is in the car and is a Mazda Reman with about 16k on it. On tuesday I'm going to use Mapp gas and the fully charged impact, if that doesn't work i'm going to use heat and the breaker bar method. If that doesn't work, the rad is coming out and it's going to be a Snap On air impact w/ heat.
I do have two more questions after all you comments.
Karack mentioned replaced the thermal pellet. Is that still necessary to do if I'm going to shim it open?
Also, Should I get a new bolt? When I did the crank bolt on my Audi I had to replace the crank bolt. But the torque on that thing was 300Ft/lbs plus a 1/4 turn.
#19
Rotary Freak
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Or throw some washers on the stock thingy.
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/OTB/otb.html
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/OTB/otb.html
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