slpin

iTrader: (9)

how exactly does that one torington bearing slip and mess it up?

i have to swap the front covers on my engine, but i am not sure how this all works...

i think this is what i see under the front cover???



and then this with front cover installed?



what is the deal with the o-ring? where is it?

and then thsi bolt??




i am sooo confused.....

and then this??




so do i loosen that bolt, take off front cover, put on a new front cover, and then pu tthat bolt back in? but how can the torington bearing fall off durin gthis process? dose that bolt pull the whole eccentric shaft forward?

and where is that o ring and the oil sensing thing that everyone talks about


p.s. thanks aaron, for the picture!

Andrew.

iTrader: (4)

That bolt *looks* like the e-shaft bolt. You take that off, the pulley and i think 6 front cover bolts and change it. I dunno what you mean on your other questions, sorry.

slpin

iTrader: (9)

i was reading thru the older posts and i saw something baout the o-ring that controls the oil pressure....

and i dont understand how that bolt hoels the eccentric shaft forward nad keep things from falling out

the o-ring i am talking about... http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/oring.htm
i dont know where it is.... *blushes*

Icemark

The Torrington bearing is on the E-shaft. It will have nothing to do with the e-shaft thermo valve, unless the e-shaft slips while the thermo valve bolt is out.

The front cover also has nothing to do with it unless you let the e-shaft move and the bear slips. Then you must pull the cover and re-align the bearing before you tighten the E-shaft bolt that is holding the thermo-valve and E-shaft in the front.

Icemark

The bolt prevents the E-shaft from moving too far and the Torrington bearing from falling

syklone

The bearing is undeneath the counter weight. By removing the fe-shaft bolt, you release the tension that keeps the bearing in place. If you wedge something(wood) between the flywheel and the rear iron to keep tension, you can then be sure that the bearing won't move fall out of position. Just be careful not to bump the assembly when you put the cover on and reattach the eshaft bolt when assembling the engine, and you should be OK.

Mazdatrix has a good write up on the o-ring you are talking about

Engine looks HOT!!!!

slpin

iTrader: (9)

ah, alright.
i am going to take the clutch out and use two pieces of wood, and put them on the flywheel, so the whole engine rest on the flywheel

how does the bolt hold the torrington bearing on the eshaft?

heh, sorry, for so much questions, i am just tyring to understand these engines without ruining one!


the engine is Aaron's
bridge ported, it sure looks SWEET!

Icemark

You are not understanding. It is the E-shaft that should not move to prevent the bearing from falling.

With the engine resting on the flywheel, the only way the bearing could fall would be if you lifted the engine with the E-shaft bolt out.

Please read this before posting any more questions on this:
http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/pulley.htm

Icemark

That is wrong and only for FDs not for FCs

slpin

iTrader: (9)

i have read that
but here is the question
how can a bolt, that touches nothing, and goes in thru the middle of the e-shaft, hold that e-shaft in place? is it held by magic/ i am confused...

RotaryRevn

when you say engine resting on flywheel, do you mean the flywheel is actually face down on the ground or a table? Or if the engine is on an engine stand, can I just rotate the motor so that the flywheel is facing the floor (not actually resting on the floor). I need to swap my front cover ASAP and don't want to screw this up.

thanks

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

with the first picture you posted it is easiest to describe what happens:



that counterweight on top sandwiches the thrust barings in place, when you remove the front e-shaft bolt the counterwieght can slide now freely. the bearings are only held in place by a slip collar which has only a few millimeters of surface to keep the bearings centered so if anything moves out of place the bearings can drop.

personally i pull out the CAS and use a prybar to keep tension on the CAS gear to keep the gears forced inward toward the engine while removing the front hub, after this is removed the front cover can be removed safely. i do not pull the engine from the vehicle when resealing a front cover and i have had no issues doing it like this.

HAILERS

Attached is a sketch of the pulley/bearings/spacer/and counterweight. The answer about the bolt.....the bolt rests against the FRONT HUB. As you tighten the bolt into the eccentric shaft the bolt moves the FRONT HUB towards the rear where it presses against the COUNTERWEIGHT which in turn presses against the SPACER.

The two bearings rest ON TOP of the SPACER. If the shaft moves aft or the counterweight moves forward and pulls the spacer forward with it (suction of the oil b/t the counterweight and the spacer makes the spacer move with the counterweight), then one of the bearings MIGHT drop down because its not supported by the SPACER anymore.

A jpg out of the manual is attached. Personally I have NEVER, ever pressed a flywheel fwd with the clutch or a piece of wood and have NEVER EVER dropped a bearing (torrington bearing). But that's just me. If you read the manual, and find the picture that I jpg'd, you;ll see that all you have to do is take a pair of calipers and make sure the distance b/t the hub face and the eccentric shaft is NO MORE THAN .0961 inches. Even using a six inch scale would work or make a piece of broken wire that is .0961 in length and use it.

HAILERS

jpg attached.. If the engine is out of the car, just stand it on the flywheel and do the front cover removal/whatever and reinstall. The shaft/bearings can't possibly move that way, UNLESS you pull the counterweight fwd and the oil b/t the counterweight and the spacer causes the spacer to follow the counterweight fwd.

Measure first then reinstall the hub/bolt.

RotaryRevn

Thanks guys!