Front cover oil leak and my dye-agnosis...
I've had an oil leak since day one, never paid it much attention. Last year, I bought UV reactive dye and finally yesterday mixed it with some oil and poured it in... anyway.... today, after checking, I have found my leak and need help on fixing it.
The oil is leaking from around the bearing on the front cover, and I don't know what to do.
How much would it cost to get new seals, or whatever it takes to button that bad boy up? Will I have to remove the motor?
I took pics, I'll post them when I get access to the proper cables.
The oil is leaking from around the bearing on the front cover, and I don't know what to do.
How much would it cost to get new seals, or whatever it takes to button that bad boy up? Will I have to remove the motor?
I took pics, I'll post them when I get access to the proper cables.
So in order to get the cover off, I've got to first remove what's attached to it, then have somebody push the clutch in so I can pull it off?
What exactly does pushing the clutch in do? I don't quite get it, I'm sorry.
What exactly does pushing the clutch in do? I don't quite get it, I'm sorry.
Originally Posted by wotnartd
So in order to get the cover off, I've got to first remove what's attached to it, then have somebody push the clutch in so I can pull it off?
What exactly does pushing the clutch in do? I don't quite get it, I'm sorry.
What exactly does pushing the clutch in do? I don't quite get it, I'm sorry.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/pulley.htm for more info
Trending Topics
Wait... the oil pan bolts to the front cover, doesn't it? Okay, I see why I need that gasket now... So if I remove the oil pan, I'll need an engine hoist, per the FSM, correct?
You don't have to remove the front cover. Just remove the bolts from where the front cover attaches to the pan.
I'm not sure why your removing the front cover to replace the seal. I guess I need to think about it more. Got me.
You should be more interested in how to remove the nut holding the hub on the front of the eccentric shaft.
I'll let someone else pipe in with their suggestions.
I'm not sure why your removing the front cover to replace the seal. I guess I need to think about it more. Got me.
You should be more interested in how to remove the nut holding the hub on the front of the eccentric shaft.
I'll let someone else pipe in with their suggestions.
UV dye for finding oil leaks?
Damn, I need some of that...
Also, I had the hardest time getting my original front seal off, even with the front cover off the engine.
Wouldn't you have to fit a tool between the seal and the eccentric shaft?
BTW, if you're going to take the oil pan off, make sure to use super-black RTV (oil-resistant), not red/blue/etc (either that, or Hondabond oil-resistant). Otherwise it'll start to seep through eventually. A paper gasket is basically superficial since you're justing adding to the number of surfaces that the oil can leak out of (it requires the use of sealant either way)...
And rather than drawing a bead on the rim, I prefer to just glob it on and smooth it out into a smooth, even surface with my finger (make sure to go around all the bolt holes). You can control the thickness and distribution much better that way (all the RTV in the world won't do you any good if you miss a spot...).
You should consider getting an oil baffle while you have the pan off anyway... keeps the buzzer from going off during hard turns, and prevents foaming during high RPMs.
Also, DON'T put oil into the pan until the sealant is FULLY cured (24 hours).
Make sure to take the battery out of the car, and disable the fuel/ignition system until you put oil in it though, to prevent the engine from dieing a horrible oil-seizing death for any reason.
Damn, I need some of that...
Also, I had the hardest time getting my original front seal off, even with the front cover off the engine.
Wouldn't you have to fit a tool between the seal and the eccentric shaft?
BTW, if you're going to take the oil pan off, make sure to use super-black RTV (oil-resistant), not red/blue/etc (either that, or Hondabond oil-resistant). Otherwise it'll start to seep through eventually. A paper gasket is basically superficial since you're justing adding to the number of surfaces that the oil can leak out of (it requires the use of sealant either way)...
And rather than drawing a bead on the rim, I prefer to just glob it on and smooth it out into a smooth, even surface with my finger (make sure to go around all the bolt holes). You can control the thickness and distribution much better that way (all the RTV in the world won't do you any good if you miss a spot...).
You should consider getting an oil baffle while you have the pan off anyway... keeps the buzzer from going off during hard turns, and prevents foaming during high RPMs.
Also, DON'T put oil into the pan until the sealant is FULLY cured (24 hours).
Make sure to take the battery out of the car, and disable the fuel/ignition system until you put oil in it though, to prevent the engine from dieing a horrible oil-seizing death for any reason.
Haha, I did a search of the net and it turns out you can use foot power to find oil leaks.
Clean the crap out of your engine, liberally coat it with powder, drive it for 30 minutes, and you'll find a trail of oil through the powder.
Clean the crap out of your engine, liberally coat it with powder, drive it for 30 minutes, and you'll find a trail of oil through the powder.
How bad is your oil leak ? Ive had an oil leak since my engine has been rebuilt thats on the front cover from what i know, but its so minor that im not even planning on fixing it unless it gets worse and from what Aaron Cakes told me the leak is not a pressurized leak so it will likely never get worse, the leak on mine isnt very significant.
Well I am pretty sure mine isnt coming from the eccentric shaft bolt , but I assume you are takling to the other guy who made this thread not me ?
My engine was built by Kevin Landers and only has like 2500+ miles on it, I'm no engine builder but I would think that any possible leak on the eccentric shaft bolt would be found when he ran the engine to test it before sending it out to me and I dont think Kevin is the kind of guy to send someone an engine with a leak eccentric shaft bolt, especially since his motors do come with a warranty.
My engine was built by Kevin Landers and only has like 2500+ miles on it, I'm no engine builder but I would think that any possible leak on the eccentric shaft bolt would be found when he ran the engine to test it before sending it out to me and I dont think Kevin is the kind of guy to send someone an engine with a leak eccentric shaft bolt, especially since his motors do come with a warranty.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
25
Jul 1, 2023 04:40 PM







