Freaking intercooler piping!
08-02-07, 08:03 AM
#1
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Freaking intercooler piping!
My couplers keep poping off! I cant boost or race anyone without having a coupler pop off! 
Would using U bolts be to violent?! I just about had it now, but I dont want to destroy the silicone couplers.
I know, I know...I will have the piping welded this winter when my 7 is in hibernation.
Would using U bolts be to violent?! I just about had it now, but I dont want to destroy the silicone couplers.
I know, I know...I will have the piping welded this winter when my 7 is in hibernation.
08-02-07, 08:40 AM
#3
yes I am in the process of replacing my worm clamps with t-bolts. they can be a pain to put in sometimes but they almost never blow off. t-bolts will run you $5-8 a clamp though. it adds up.
and yeah, take the piping and get a lip welded onto the end of it
and yeah, take the piping and get a lip welded onto the end of it
08-02-07, 06:13 PM
#6
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i took a pair a pliers and worked my way around the end of the pipes and flared the ends out just a little, used t-bolt clamps, and just before putting the couplers back on sprayed some hair spray on the pipe ends. Put it all back together and drove a little till everything warmed up...which made the hairspray tacky. This was all recommendations I got off the forum a couple weeks ago....and it seems to be doing the trick (granted i'm only boosting 5lbs right now)
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08-02-07, 11:19 PM
#11
I wish I was driving!
08-03-07, 01:17 AM
#12
I'm a boost creep...
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On plain pipe sure. Unless you're running silly boost they work fine if there's a proper bead on the end of the pipe.
To me adding a positive mechanical restraint is better engineering than simply squeezing harder. Before blowing a bunch on money on expensive clamps, take the pipes to an exhaust shop that has a bead rolling tool. Ring around to find one of necessary. I bet they'll do it for less than the clamps would cost.
To me adding a positive mechanical restraint is better engineering than simply squeezing harder. Before blowing a bunch on money on expensive clamps, take the pipes to an exhaust shop that has a bead rolling tool. Ring around to find one of necessary. I bet they'll do it for less than the clamps would cost.
08-03-07, 01:59 PM
#14
On plain pipe sure. Unless you're running silly boost they work fine if there's a proper bead on the end of the pipe.
To me adding a positive mechanical restraint is better engineering than simply squeezing harder. Before blowing a bunch on money on expensive clamps, take the pipes to an exhaust shop that has a bead rolling tool. Ring around to find one of necessary. I bet they'll do it for less than the clamps would cost.
To me adding a positive mechanical restraint is better engineering than simply squeezing harder. Before blowing a bunch on money on expensive clamps, take the pipes to an exhaust shop that has a bead rolling tool. Ring around to find one of necessary. I bet they'll do it for less than the clamps would cost.
08-03-07, 08:36 PM
#15
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ok...i know what a wiggins clamp is...but what do you mean when you say tie bars?
I had a thought (very ghetto...but would probably work), drill a couple holes in the ends of each pipe and use something to strap the ends in place, then slide the coupler over the joint to hide it...something like a large zip tie....zip tie's are ghetto to me, but the principle would work I think.
I had a thought (very ghetto...but would probably work), drill a couple holes in the ends of each pipe and use something to strap the ends in place, then slide the coupler over the joint to hide it...something like a large zip tie....zip tie's are ghetto to me, but the principle would work I think.
08-03-07, 11:27 PM
#16
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NASA can afford Wiggins clamps... every now and then.
A tab or bushing is welded to each pipe, and then a flat bar or bolt keeps the pipes together in tension so that the coupler is only needed for holding air pressure in the tube. If you use the flat bar method, drill the holes after fitting, or drill several holes for adjustment.
A tab or bushing is welded to each pipe, and then a flat bar or bolt keeps the pipes together in tension so that the coupler is only needed for holding air pressure in the tube. If you use the flat bar method, drill the holes after fitting, or drill several holes for adjustment.
