This thread is older than dirt.

Steve

 

this thread is awesome!

 

I have mazdaspeed7's MAF setting a few feet away from me right now.

The dream is still alive.......



I'll be posting any progress in the ECU thread though.

 

hey, remember this?

so it seems that the voltage output of the 5.0 AFM is inverse of the voltage output of the stock FC AFM's... there would need to be some sort of black box required to convert the voltage signal into the proper range that the FC ECU would recognize.

0-5v seems to be the operating range of both the AFM's... but 0 volts means different things to each ECU. 0 volts may be WOT airflow on the RX7 but could mean engine off/key on for the mustang. its possible to create a translator to invert the voltage signal and the trim it with an SAFC. but youd also need to create provisions for the IAT and such that are integrated into the stock FC AFM.

ive got alot of mustang friends now, so maybe i can borrow their car and take voltage readings from their MAF's while the car is off/key on, idling and revving. that way i can get an idea of what the voltage slope is like in relation to the car's operation. then i can test my S5's sliding cone AFM voltage output during the same conditons and compare the 2. if they are infact inverse of eachother, then we/i would need to employ someone who could design a voltage inverter or figure out a way to create one myself. if i create it myself, ill patent that ************ and sell it for $200 a piece... and you guys could use a Hotwire MAF and flow almost as well as a VPC/MAP based system for a fraction of the price...

 

Coming from the tbird club, the MAFS swap is a BIG swap and will net a good 20 HP gain if done with a tune.

The reason a bigger MAFS is better is because it maps quicker and has a higher load setting, if you get one too big it won't be accurate so you have to keep the size down unless you're always flowing LARGE amounts of air.

- Tech

 

wow 4 yrs later..

 

the K+N is what made it fail...

technically it didn't fail though but the filter oil coated the tiny resistors in the MAF with filter oil and threw off the readings causing the ECU to go into default readings.

if the technician was smart he would have printed off the factory service bulletin and tossed it at you, charged you for the MAF and walked out of the room.

if you gave me a headache over it i would have thrown it right back at you, you realize factory mechanics get paid dirt from the factory to work on your rigs?

try being a little more considerate next time, so long as he wasn't trying to charge you for the MAF then i would say he was doing you a favor by letting you know.

.....



(4 year old posts, i'm thinking this forum needs auto locking topics because this **** is starting to **** me off)

 

Except that people can buy a megasquirt and pretty much have a full standalone for damn near the same cost... I know which I'd go with!

 

Yeah, we sell a MAP ECU piggy back that replaces your MAF with a MAP sensor thats good up to 30 psi. Instead of a bigger MAF, why not just ditch it all together?

 

Me too, maybe that's why I bought one recently

 

ewww... megasquirt.

:P

 

Not a fan of cheaper competition huh?

BTW: Get those damn front brake kits out!

 

I'm surprised that no one has pointed this out before: If you are at the point where the stock AFM is actually a siginificant restriction, you should NOT be running the stock ECU anymore anyway. There are plenty of high HP cars (think close to 400) running around using the stock AFM. It's not a restriction, or at least a significant one.

And I believe as has already been pointed out, on the money you will spend converting to another car's AFM/MAF (pointless anyway) you can purchase an entry level standalone (used Haltech/Microtech, Megasquirt) anyway.

 

Workin on it!

We've been busy drinkin beer! You understand, right?

 

That would make complete sense... if you are as big of a jackass as the Ford technician. The K&N filter was installed AFTER the engine started having problems, and had only been on the car for about a week prior to the Ford tech looking at it. There is no way that the K&N filter oiled up my MAF while it was sitting on the shelf at Autozone, lol. Besides, the truck has been driven another 60,000 miles with no MAF problems, running the K&N filter the whole time. The problem was the POS Ford MAF, not the K&N filter. I am not aware of any documented case of a K&N filter causing MAF failure, and there is no way that K&N could stay in business if this were actually a problem. I think the misconception of K&N filters gumming up MAFs is simply a myth propagated by ignorant mechanics.

If the technician was smart, he wouldn't have been an *** and acted like it was my fault. Fortunately he was smart enough to do the right thing before I sued the snot out of the dealership for violating federal warranty laws. If you would have "given me a headache over it", you would be in the unemployment line. Sorry, but a low salary doesn't give you the right to make customers feel like criminals or to make up a bunch of techno crap thinking that you can get away with it.

FYI I unload on idiots who act like they know everything and try to blame problems on innocent vehicle owners. Always have, always will. If this offends you, then either get an education or don't submit your ignorant comments to the public. This may come as a shock, but some businesses actually attempt to treat customers well. The second Ford dealership to deal with my MAF problem gave me excellent service, quickly fixed the problem, and didn't give me a bunch of BS about it. There ARE good mechanics out there. In my experience, the better mechanics make good money. If you don't make much money, then I guess you know where you stand. Why don't you try to be a better mechanic rather than taking out your frustrations on your customers?

Just remember, whatever your job, there are customers out there who understand some things better than you do. It is in the worker's best interest to be honest. You may be able to BS most people, but there will come a time when you will meet your match. I have no sympathy for liars or jerks in the unemployment line.

 

I beg to differ, the guys running 9's and 10's at the Thunderbird Club (www.tccoa.com) also state the same thing, it's from OVER-OILING THE FILTER, when air flows past it the excess gets on the resistors and fubars the readings, it does not kill the unit, you just need to clean it.

If you would have sued, you would have lost, he's got proof that the K&N caused it, you don't have any proof that it didn't besides what you 'think'.

The MAFS just needed to be cleaned, that's all the second dealership did I guarntee it.

If you understood more than them, why were you at the dealership getting the problem worked on in the first place?

It's a common problem with OILED FILTERS with any brand, they coat the MAFS with a layer of oil from use and skew the readings, if you think I'm an idiot and think I'm wrong you'll be forking out money to the dealerships every 2 months...

Stop trying to be a know-it-all and learn from a damn change...

 

Did you not read his post? The MAF was having issues BEFORE the filter, so obviously it wasn't due to over-oiling...

 

heh well here is a GM factory TSB for a condition relative that i just pulled up since im on my break...


• Service Engine Soon (SES) Light On

• Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)

• Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range

The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.

When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over- oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the concern.

The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.

If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.

Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not considered to be warrantable repair items.


think what you want, it only takes several minutes of running to damage the sensor and cause it to be miscalibrated.

 

You do realize that commenting on a situation you know nothing about just makes you look like more of an *** than anything?

He went to the dealership because it was under WARRANTY, so they replace it for FREE, rather than him having to pay to replace it.

Quit guessing at what EA did and what the mechanics did, because you're just going to end up looking stupid when he quotes and replies back again.

 

heh ^

being a factory tech i speak as one.

although it doesn't void our warranty doesn't mean it doesn't to all manufacturers.

 

Who gives a ****?

Unless you specifically took off his damn MAF and looked at it, your comments are just useless **** to incite yet another worthless arguement. For all you know EA took the damn thing off, made sweet love to it, and bolted it back on.

 

it was the point that he gave this guy a hard time for something he was right in assuming.

 

And you know for a fact EA didn't check for excessive oil before bringing it there, and that even though the problem was before an oiled filter, the oil still was the reason, so it's safe to assume that even though the problem existed before the filter, it must be the filter!

The problem is, assuming is bad.

 

I would like to reiterate that the MAF failed BEFORE the K&N filter was installed. With only 20K miles on the truck, I figured that it was more likely that the degraded engine performance was due to a clogged air filter rather than a failed MAF. Obviously not.

 

Sorry,

Didn't read the post fully, but just for future reference, oil can and will get on the MAFS and skew the readings.

K&N actually has a notice on their box saying don't over-oil...

If it failed before the filter was put in it's simply just the MAFS being dirty or bad.

- Tech