i dunno if you want to put 12v to the maf, you might let the smoke out.
idea number 2 is good though

mike

 

"you might let the smoke out."

Ahhhhh, yes! the majic smoke!!


Very well put j9fd3s!

Mike

 

Alright, I tried putting 12V instead of 4.5, still no change. It still doesnt work. I have a few more things to try, but I am starting to look into converting from MAF to speed density, using stock sensors that are already on the engine, like the pressure sensor, TPS, and an RPM input.

 

I would like to see a straight shot to the TB. Meaning no MAF at all. like using a MAP sensor and converting it's signal to plug into the MAF plug on the car. souds reasonable right? If you can come up with a way to to just get everything out of the way of the air that would be great. how ever you want to do it

 

Actually, Ive been looking into that for a few days. The biggest problem with that is any way I do it, its going to bitch to adjust it, and it will need to be adjust/set every time airflow requirements change, such as more mods, etc. One of the 2 ways Im looking at is an array of op-amps with adjustable gain. The other is a Basic Stamp chip. Potentially better, but a whole lot more work to program/tune.

Im working on the MAF more today, I thought of another possible reason why it wasn't working.

 

I guess that some people just need to learn from their own mistakes.
https://www.rx7club.com/vforums/show...threadid=30230

An aftermarket ECU would let you ditch the MAF all together.

Thanks for posting so that others will not waste their time and money with this mod.

 

the reason you have to replace the afm all the time is becuase ford is too cheap to put a burn off into the ecu...

mike

 

Any updates?

 

This may be a stupid question, but what the heck.

Have you bench tested the 2 meters to make sure their voltage output is similar?


A tuner mag did a hotwire conversion on Ford Probe with same plunger style airflow meter. They had to jump through a lot of hoops to make it work. The hotwire set-up they went with provided voltage signals opposite of the factory unit. They then needed a 'black box' to change the aftermarket readings back to 'stock'. After that they also required additional sensors to also take into account the air temp, etc. By the time they were done, the price tag was around an entry level EMS.

 

I talked with mazdaspeed7 about this.. the signal is quite different (opposite), but he made a circuit to compensate for that.. Hopefully, just the circuit is a bit screwy, or maybe the MAF he got is bad.

-Tesla

 

That black box is what Im working on. My problems with it not working right in the first post are most likely due to the power source not being correct for my op-amp. Anybody have a good grasp of op-amps, and dual polarity power supplies? I need to figure out the power source before I can do any more work on it.

 

http://www.splitsec.com/
This company makes MAF kits. They are just expensive. I have been given a 2000 Mustang GT MAF sensor to try to make this conversion happen. I just haven't had time to devote to it. I am working on getting it to work for a GSL-SE. It wouldn't be hard to get it to work with later models if I can get it to work with a GSL-SE.

It can be done and I am convinced that it would help. I have yet to hear of it hurting performance when properly done.

http://www.grmotorsports.com/massair.html

All we have to do is to make it cheaper for ourselves. For the money that they want for the kit, I would buy a Wolf or work on getting a Haltech. But if we can figure out these circuits, then we could save a lot of money. Think of it this way. Get a MAF from a totaled out Stang, then build a Megasquirt. There is increased fuel and air. On a 1st gen, do the dual leading coil setup for ignition or an MSD. ll are cheaper than Wolf or Haltech, although not as easy or probably as good. But cheaper yes.

 

People, stop PMing me asking if theres been any progress. There has been none, nor will there be. Unless youre an EE with too much time on your hands, its not worth your time or money.

 

People, stop PMing me asking if theres been any progress. There has been none, nor will there be. Unless youre an EE with too much time on your hands, its not worth your time or money.

 

I have a 2001 Ford Escape and never had a single problem with my stock MAF... then I upgraded to a 75mm high flow MAF and guess what, still NO problems. Everyone always gives fords such a hard time, but I've owned 2, the escape and a 91 escort... The escort was the ugliest piece of **** ever, was slow as hell, but hey it was a manual, i bought it for 500 bucks and after putting in a k&n and good driving i was getting up to 30MPG and had no issues with it at all. Ford just has a bad rep unfortunately

 

I just happen to be one, working on the same thing!

 

Right-O!!!

 

what about the maf from a merkur xr4ti or thunderbird turbo? They are identical in construction to the s4 maf. any one ever try this on the s4?

 

"The s4 MAF" Do you mean s4 rx-7?
The rx-7 use and air flow meter, not a mass airflow sensor. The whole idea is to ditch the restrictive, slower acting AFM and replace it with a commonly available MAF.

So far the 5.0 mustang MAF is loooking like the best bet.

 

Vane Air Meter to be exact but you get the idea. The ford and merkur units are same in construction but are larger=more flow. Turbo coupes are quite plentiful.

 

Sounds doable, but a MAF sensor is superior technology IMO.

 

sorry to bring up an old thread but why not just use a chebyy AFM?

 

The hotwire setups are really delicate and can be fucked up really easy, getting K&N oil (the stuff u spray on your filter after you clean it) on the wire inside of the MAF will cause damage, so the tech might have not been BSing you. Its good to clean those off every now and then with brake cleaner or electronics cleaner, as they can get dirty espically when running a aftermarket intake.

 

the two fords you've own were cocreated with mazda. buy a taurus, any generation, and you'll know why people dislike fords.