2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

fmic setup pics

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Old May 3, 2007 | 01:23 PM
  #51  
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anyone mount a fmic without raping the stock brake vent ducts?
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Old May 3, 2007 | 02:41 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by PatrickT
*bump*

no comments, criticism, praise ? ;(
Thats very nice! Any pictures of the brackets holding the radiator and other stuff in place? I was thinking of going vmount and would like to see how you did yours. Im not a big fan of front mounting
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Old May 3, 2007 | 03:55 PM
  #53  
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Yes me neither, I wanted to make the piping as short as possible.

The plates holding the radiator at the upperside have the shape of a triange.
You can see it on picture 2 , between the air filter and the intercooler.

The triangle has two bended areas to make contact to the radiator and the surface at the chassis the radiator is mounted stock.
I prototyped a lot to find out the perfect measures of the triangle,

I will take fotos of it tomorrow, and I think I have the measures somewhere.


-Patrick
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Old May 3, 2007 | 04:00 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by PatrickT
Yes me neither, I wanted to make the piping as short as possible.

The plates holding the radiator at the upperside have the shape of a triange.
You can see it on picture 2 , between the air filter and the intercooler.

The triangle has two bended areas to make contact to the radiator and the surface at the chassis the radiator is mounted stock.
I prototyped a lot to find out the perfect measures of the triangle,

I will take fotos of it tomorrow, and I think I have the measures somewhere.


-Patrick
Patrick,

Are you using the stock radiator?

If so hows cooling with it on that much of a lean? Do you have any coolant filling issues?
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Old May 3, 2007 | 05:35 PM
  #55  
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From: Germany Southwest
Hi

yes its the stock radiator, I thought I can switch later to a Koyo if I want to,
as they should be interchangeable.

I think first cooling improved because I´ve removed the A/C cooler,
but with my additional cover plate now and cut underfloor covering I think it
impoved even more.
Last time I drove on the Autobahn constantly 60 mph and didnt have to switch the e-fan on, with 25 °C ambient temp.

I want a thing to control the fan speed , now I switch it manualy or at 95°C it also starts like the A/C fan.

I air bleed the radiator by removing the sensor on top of the radiator,
with my first setup I had a few issues, but now it seems fine.

Good night its 0:33 AM in Germany now....
-Patrick
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Old May 3, 2007 | 06:58 PM
  #56  
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From: Birmingham, Alabama
Originally Posted by PatrickT
Yes me neither, I wanted to make the piping as short as possible.

The plates holding the radiator at the upperside have the shape of a triange.
You can see it on picture 2 , between the air filter and the intercooler.

The triangle has two bended areas to make contact to the radiator and the surface at the chassis the radiator is mounted stock.
I prototyped a lot to find out the perfect measures of the triangle,

I will take fotos of it tomorrow, and I think I have the measures somewhere.


-Patrick
Well if thats the case, what point hold up the entire triangle since neither the radiator or oil cooler in the stock location. where does it all bolt up to keep it from moving around? thats the only thing Im having trouble figuring out. I could probably make one of my own with alot of time but itsm uch easier to see how someone else did it and base it off of that. thanks for the help dont forget the pictures
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Old May 7, 2007 | 02:06 PM
  #57  
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From: Germany Southwest
Finally here are the pics:
I had/have big problems reaching the site.





In the meantime I removed the battery holder at the bottom


This doesn´t look that nice but it works, maybe Ill replace it sometime.

-Patrick
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Old May 18, 2007 | 11:15 PM
  #58  
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Interesting V-mount concept, PatrickT
Was it hard to relocate the stock radiator like that ?
Here is an idea, why extend the top intercooler duct plate to the front bumper like a radiator panel cover. That way you would get more air to the intercooler.
It is hot and humid over here :P i would not dream about taking out my A/C ..heehee.. :P Did you bead those intercooler pipes ?
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Old Jun 13, 2007 | 11:50 AM
  #59  
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From: Germany Southwest
Originally Posted by SomeGuy_sg
Interesting V-mount concept, PatrickT

1
Was it hard to relocate the stock radiator like that ?

2
Here is an idea, why extend the top intercooler duct plate to the front bumper like a radiator panel cover. That way you would get more air to the intercooler.

3
It is hot and humid over here :P i would not dream about taking out my A/C ..heehee.. :P

4
Did you bead those intercooler pipes ?
Hi
thx

1
I tried a lot , first the angle was not flat enough, so I relocated the oil cooler.
Than it was to low, and i was afraid of scratching the ground. But finally I got it.

2
I thought this is exactly what I did

3
These days yes, but there are plenty of cooler months to come.

4
I welded on some material at the ends on the outside to prevent the hoses from pulling away.

-Patrick
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Old Jun 17, 2007 | 12:54 PM
  #60  
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how many bolts do i really need to take off before the front bumper will pop off?
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Old Jun 17, 2007 | 03:03 PM
  #61  
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Do I have to remove the metal peace of the bumper for good to install the fmic?
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Old Jun 17, 2007 | 03:20 PM
  #62  
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What do most of you guys mount ur ic onto? All I have that really looks possible to mount it on is a cylinder/tube of metal i nthe front of the frame. Also how do you guys avoid hitting the headlight motors...?
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Old Jun 17, 2007 | 03:36 PM
  #63  
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My FMIC set up
NPR medium
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Old Jun 17, 2007 | 08:37 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by cls6888
thanks alot the bov should go on the turbo side correct
It should go in an area of high pressure (low velocity) if possible, which would be either near the turbo or throttle body. If it simply doesn't fit in one of those locations, then it's still OK, but just not optimal. Some things to think about: Closer to the throttle body means less vacuum tubing and slightly faster response, closer to the turbo means less plumbing if using a bypass valve with the stock AFM rather than a blow-off valve with a standalone EMS.

Originally Posted by Morondongon
Question? what FMIC did you use on your car? did you get a kit or did you buy it all separatelty, build it yourself? thanks...
Custom built professionally by Spearco with a 2-248 bar & plate core as per specs designed by SPiN Racing to my requests. This one is a little large, but fits in the car without chopping up the bumper or blocking the brake ducts, although the stock hood latch needs to be replaced with hood pins.


If I had a 13BT engine, I would have gone with a slightly smaller custom bar & plate with an H-mount and end tanks that feed directly with minimal bends like this:
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 12:34 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by jm85rx7
My FMIC set up
NPR medium
That is a beautiful engine bay!!

Also, since during summer I see 110 degree temps outside, after you guys front mounted did you noticed an extreme rise in engine bay temps? That is my one big fear of mine when it comes to front mounting.
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 10:07 AM
  #66  
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Here is mine. Brake ducts don't suffer that much.
Attached Thumbnails fmic setup pics-picture-038.jpg  
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 10:42 AM
  #67  
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So from what I understand I must remove the bumper support under the bumper cover in order to have the fmic . . . ?
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 07:39 PM
  #68  
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Im putting my fmic on right now, my question is can I leave the stock pipe the bov connects to on and connect a pipe there, and can I leave the BACV and ditch the black valve that connects to the factory ic and plug those 2 tubes up?
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 08:29 PM
  #69  
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Question for all the guys running the Greddy TB (COmpreesion Tube) adaptor: What diameter is the inlet of the adaptor? 3"?
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 09:03 PM
  #70  
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I really like the blue one in Eval Aviator's post. How would I go about building something like this one?
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 09:04 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by TougeRoads96
That is a beautiful engine bay!!

Also, since during summer I see 110 degree temps outside, after you guys front mounted did you noticed an extreme rise in engine bay temps? That is my one big fear of mine when it comes to front mounting.
Thanks.
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 11:46 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by AUGieDogie
I really like the blue one in Eval Aviator's post. How would I go about building something like this one?
The big advantage is the reduction in pipe bends, which lessens the pressure drop. Unlike the picture I posted, the picture below is NOT correct because the end tanks are not designed properly, necessitating tubing bends that are robbing boost from the engine.
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...5&d=1173209884

The other advantages are natural convection cooling (heat rises), and keeping the intercooler isolated from the radiator and oil cooler feed air and discharge air. Unfortunately, you really need a custom modified hood and custom intake ducting to make this work properly because the intercooler needs its own air supply and discharge vent. More pics below. FYI the intercooler intake looks a little too small to me... the cross-sectional area should be about 1/4 that of the intercooler core.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/blue-tii-update-fresh-paint-newer-eng-bay-pics-585548/
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/pics-blue-tii-engine-bay-teardown-build-up-342353/
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