BLUE TII update- fresh paint + newer eng bay pics
10-09-06, 02:57 AM
#1
BLUE TII update- fresh paint + newer eng bay pics
I was hit square in the DR side door and rear quarter panel by a rent-a-cop in a Crown Vic. Haggled w/ their insurance enough it wasn't a total since as a total I would have gotten Blue Book minus the highest wrecker's bid (they were shocked how much the yard wanted to pay for my wreck once they saw pics of it).
Finished off the Auto-x season racing it wrecked and had it fixed JUST intime for the Hillclimb (tech'ed late w/ local cars).
Sunroof deleted, fender stickers and rear badges removed, NA alum hood and all new exterior trim added.
Finished off the Auto-x season racing it wrecked and had it fixed JUST intime for the Hillclimb (tech'ed late w/ local cars).
Sunroof deleted, fender stickers and rear badges removed, NA alum hood and all new exterior trim added.
Last edited by BLUE TII; 10-09-06 at 02:59 AM.
10-09-06, 03:21 AM
#6
Haven't had a chance to put the full interior in yet. Plan is to chip out the tar and replace with "silent running" sound deadener.
This shows Japanese market Infini model FC3s seats and some instrumentation. A/F guage and boost up top with oil temp, front and rear rotor EGT above stereo
This shows Japanese market Infini model FC3s seats and some instrumentation. A/F guage and boost up top with oil temp, front and rear rotor EGT above stereo
10-09-06, 03:38 AM
#7
I see you haven't ducted the hood yet to help out with your v-mount set-up.
Nope, air temps are great and I like the understated sleeper look of the NA hood.
Some pics of the engine bay. Since last pics up I have added the 9" air filter, removed the oil/air separator that I used to put the sump under vacuum (I put in race e-shaft oil jets that lower pressure at idle to ease turbo drain) and the forum lost the pics of my ignition upgrade. The ignition is really the reason I am posting all of these as a member asked for pics.
2 Crane Hi-6 under the "radiator cooling panel" (actually the top of my IC duct). Two LX92 coils for the leading plugs (over by the engine bay fuse panel).
A heatsink on the ignitor where the leading coil used to be.
Nope, air temps are great and I like the understated sleeper look of the NA hood.
Some pics of the engine bay. Since last pics up I have added the 9" air filter, removed the oil/air separator that I used to put the sump under vacuum (I put in race e-shaft oil jets that lower pressure at idle to ease turbo drain) and the forum lost the pics of my ignition upgrade. The ignition is really the reason I am posting all of these as a member asked for pics.
2 Crane Hi-6 under the "radiator cooling panel" (actually the top of my IC duct). Two LX92 coils for the leading plugs (over by the engine bay fuse panel).
A heatsink on the ignitor where the leading coil used to be.
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10-09-06, 03:46 AM
#8
Msd wires and BR10EIX iridium plugs. I re routed the plug wires to avoid cross triggering the trailing off the hot leading wires.
Leading run together (since they fire together) down low to avoid the CAS wiring harness and trailing are run separate from leading and eachother on opposite sides of brake master cylinder up high. Hard to see.
Leading run together (since they fire together) down low to avoid the CAS wiring harness and trailing are run separate from leading and eachother on opposite sides of brake master cylinder up high. Hard to see.
10-09-06, 04:02 AM
#10
I relocated the MAP and gauge boost sensor lines. They had been attached to the primary runners in the FD UIM just at the bend, but they had eratic readings from the dynamic effect. I moved them to the vacuum ports behind the TB to smooth their signal. To make it look good I ran the lines through the '89 TII LIM where the giant setscrew was.
I am running 8-10psi spring in the HKS 60mm wastegate w/ a Hallman manual boost controller w/ AN lines raising it to 15psi.
Finally rock steady boost with the evil boost creep gone since I ported out the turbo manifold and runners. There was a loss in boost between 2000-3000 rpm, but full boost is still 3,700 rpm in 4th and 3,400 rpm in 5th gear.
Current exhaust is 3 1/2" JIC Spec 90 downpipe to RB 3" turbo back "Y" pipe and mufflers (they align perfectly- just had to shorten/reduce Spec 90 front pipe.)
I am running 8-10psi spring in the HKS 60mm wastegate w/ a Hallman manual boost controller w/ AN lines raising it to 15psi.
Finally rock steady boost with the evil boost creep gone since I ported out the turbo manifold and runners. There was a loss in boost between 2000-3000 rpm, but full boost is still 3,700 rpm in 4th and 3,400 rpm in 5th gear.
Current exhaust is 3 1/2" JIC Spec 90 downpipe to RB 3" turbo back "Y" pipe and mufflers (they align perfectly- just had to shorten/reduce Spec 90 front pipe.)
10-09-06, 04:10 AM
#11
Wow man, very nice work. When I first saw the pics i thought really nothing special about your car. When I started toscroll down and check out the other pics of your interior and engine bay I was speechless....VERY CLEAN work bro!
You have successfully conquered the task of keeping the car a sleeper AND doing high quality work at the same time. Looks like no short-cuts here!!
You have successfully conquered the task of keeping the car a sleeper AND doing high quality work at the same time. Looks like no short-cuts here!!
10-09-06, 04:28 AM
#12
do you have anymore pics that show the sunroof deleted?
No, I didn't take any of just the roof. The shop didn't do the sunroof delete the way I told them they should and there are problems with it.
Non sunroof tops were no longer available from Japan, so I had to make the sunroof top work.
I told the body shop to cut the spotwelds in the sunroof and remove the inner structure, cut the corners of the outer lip off and fold the lip flat, remove or bend flat the sunroof holes lip. I bought the non sunroof reinforcement to add the rigidity. I basically suggested putting in the panel like a replacement quarter panel would be put in.
The shop decided it would be stronger if they left the lips intact on both the hole and the sunroof and left the frame in the sunroof, but didn't use the non sunroof reinforcement piece.
So, when the roof got hot it expands and flexes everywhere except the ultra rigid section where the 2 lips were welded together and you could see a line in the paint all the way around the sunroof. Not to mention I couldn't put in the non sunroof headliner (or even the sunroof headliner the way they bent the front lip over bringing the front outer reinforcement down).
They tried to fix it once using less filler (thinking the filler shrank in the heat?) and I did regain some of the correct roof line (they rounded it too much the 1st time), but when they repainted they were too lazy to remove the brand new windshield trim I bought and there is a now a mask line there like an Earl Sheib paint job.
Great collision repair (they pulled it out nearly perfectly using minimal filler) but no customization skills and once they had my money no will to do the job right.
I will have to fix it myself. Aren't you glad you asked about the roof
No, I didn't take any of just the roof. The shop didn't do the sunroof delete the way I told them they should and there are problems with it.
Non sunroof tops were no longer available from Japan, so I had to make the sunroof top work.
I told the body shop to cut the spotwelds in the sunroof and remove the inner structure, cut the corners of the outer lip off and fold the lip flat, remove or bend flat the sunroof holes lip. I bought the non sunroof reinforcement to add the rigidity. I basically suggested putting in the panel like a replacement quarter panel would be put in.
The shop decided it would be stronger if they left the lips intact on both the hole and the sunroof and left the frame in the sunroof, but didn't use the non sunroof reinforcement piece.
So, when the roof got hot it expands and flexes everywhere except the ultra rigid section where the 2 lips were welded together and you could see a line in the paint all the way around the sunroof. Not to mention I couldn't put in the non sunroof headliner (or even the sunroof headliner the way they bent the front lip over bringing the front outer reinforcement down).
They tried to fix it once using less filler (thinking the filler shrank in the heat?) and I did regain some of the correct roof line (they rounded it too much the 1st time), but when they repainted they were too lazy to remove the brand new windshield trim I bought and there is a now a mask line there like an Earl Sheib paint job.
Great collision repair (they pulled it out nearly perfectly using minimal filler) but no customization skills and once they had my money no will to do the job right.
I will have to fix it myself. Aren't you glad you asked about the roof
10-09-06, 04:38 AM
#13
Wow man, very nice work. When I first saw the pics i thought really nothing special about your car.
Perfect, I can't tell you how happy I am to hear that. Unfortunalely the turbo is so loud when its moving it isn't very sleeper unless there is a Mack truck next to me and they think the noises are coming from that.
Perfect, I can't tell you how happy I am to hear that. Unfortunalely the turbo is so loud when its moving it isn't very sleeper unless there is a Mack truck next to me and they think the noises are coming from that.
10-09-06, 07:50 AM
#15
I'm doing the same exact thing with my ignition and have the lx92 coils and hi-6's already just at a bit of a slump on how to mount them. Also how exactly did you setup the trigger to both coils? Thanks for any help/pictures you could give detailing the install
10-09-06, 05:16 PM
#18
Also how exactly did you setup the trigger to both coils? Thanks for any help/pictures you could give detailing the install
Hope my install helped a bit showing one way to mount. The coils have a heatsink mount, make sure they are in a place they will cool instead of heat the coil.
Gorgeous car, total sleeper.
How well does the v-mount set up like that cool the intake charge? Without any kind of aftermarket hood or anything?
How well does the v-mount set up like that cool the intake charge? Without any kind of aftermarket hood or anything?
It cools great! On a typical 20 C day if I do a full boost datalog temps typically peak in the mid 40s by the end of the log. Temp sensor is in UIM and when it heatsoaks it cools very rapidly even at low speeds. At Auto-x and even at the 85-90 deg F hillclimb (1,300+ ft elev change in 2.2 miles) the turbo outlet pipe is scorching hot the IC core is hot to warm side to side and the IC outlet pipe is cool to the touch. It is a little slower to cool from heatsoak now that I don't have the TII hoodscoop dumping air on the UIM; but, less bugs to clean off the firewall.
Yes, it would work even better w/ a vented hood instead of going out the trans tunnel, but so would a FMIC. I am leaving it sleeper
thats an amazing machine my friend! do you also use it as a daily driver or it it just a weekend and track toy?
10-09-06, 08:22 PM
#22
The Cause of Death
Originally Posted by BLUE TII
I don't remember the exact details of the wiring, but I think it was simply a matter of power to the Hi-6 boxes, switched power to Hi-6 and coils, and then the trigger wire off the stock ignitor for the signal to the Hi-6. You have to jumper the Hi-6s for the correct # "cylinders".
Hope my install helped a bit showing one way to mount. The coils have a heatsink mount, make sure they are in a place they will cool instead of heat the coil.
Thank you! I have been pulled over 3 times and no tickets; cops will appreciate that you are not a ricer. When I had the LOUD Spec 90 exhaust I was pulled over for a pretty flagrant violation once and the officer said "If you are going to run an illegal exhaust you might want to watch how you drive- have a good day."
It cools great! On a typical 20 C day if I do a full boost datalog temps typically peak in the mid 40s by the end of the log. Temp sensor is in UIM and when it heatsoaks it cools very rapidly even at low speeds. At Auto-x and even at the 85-90 deg F hillclimb (1,300+ ft elev change in 2.2 miles) the turbo outlet pipe is scorching hot the IC core is hot to warm side to side and the IC outlet pipe is cool to the touch. It is a little slower to cool from heatsoak now that I don't have the TII hoodscoop dumping air on the UIM; but, less bugs to clean off the firewall.
Yes, it would work even better w/ a vented hood instead of going out the trans tunnel, but so would a FMIC. I am leaving it sleeper
Thanks, it is my daily driver on DOT-R tires.
Hope my install helped a bit showing one way to mount. The coils have a heatsink mount, make sure they are in a place they will cool instead of heat the coil.
Thank you! I have been pulled over 3 times and no tickets; cops will appreciate that you are not a ricer. When I had the LOUD Spec 90 exhaust I was pulled over for a pretty flagrant violation once and the officer said "If you are going to run an illegal exhaust you might want to watch how you drive- have a good day."
It cools great! On a typical 20 C day if I do a full boost datalog temps typically peak in the mid 40s by the end of the log. Temp sensor is in UIM and when it heatsoaks it cools very rapidly even at low speeds. At Auto-x and even at the 85-90 deg F hillclimb (1,300+ ft elev change in 2.2 miles) the turbo outlet pipe is scorching hot the IC core is hot to warm side to side and the IC outlet pipe is cool to the touch. It is a little slower to cool from heatsoak now that I don't have the TII hoodscoop dumping air on the UIM; but, less bugs to clean off the firewall.
Yes, it would work even better w/ a vented hood instead of going out the trans tunnel, but so would a FMIC. I am leaving it sleeper
Thanks, it is my daily driver on DOT-R tires.
10-09-06, 08:36 PM
#23
And the Revolution...
We need numbers, Get that bitch on the DYNO. I would suppose the dyno wouldn't bring as much power as it would with a vented hood because you wouldn't have the volume of air flowing thru. But hey, you've done what you wanted and thats ultimately more important. Damn Beautiful every time I see it. Glad you got her fixed and back out on the road and glad to hear you got that boost creep under control.
Chris
Chris
