wat to do with the two vacuum lines that used to go to tmic? cap which one off and tap which one where?

eric.

 

cap all of them off, theyre just for the emissions stuff

 

i've read that for the asv i cant cap that becuase i have ps still... but where to i plug it into? the asv? the asv has big open end pointing towards the passenger side, i took a screwdriver and tried pushing the plate in there in and it wont budge, is it suppose to go there tho?

eric.

 

sdso i plugged up the two vac hoses, and i tried idling the car but it was idle, sometimes it goes on and dies, or it idles very low around 0-1 about to stall and then stalls at times. is it because the bov isnt hooked up? i have no bov on right now, i didnt think it would affect idle. im getting it weld on the piping tomorrow. is there anything else that might help? is the bottome part of the bac valve where the vacuum used to go to the bov adaptor suppose to be plugged up? cuz i plugged that up. so four things

two that used to go to the tmic is now plugged.

one is the bac that use dt o go to the bov adaptor now plugged.

and bov.

pls help guys, i need car to be running

 

hard to follow you .. post some pics.

some hints.

all air have to pass AFM or idle and stock fuel map will not work (if you still have the AFM)
AWS and bac air intake probably have to be on the preasure side after the turbo or preasure might leak the wrong way thrue them or you have to remove them and block the holes that they will leave.

/bo

 

Uh, NO.
They are both for bypass valves that bump the idle up when under load by certain components.
One is for power steering.
I forgot what the other one is for.
They are NOT related to emissions.


-Ted

 

I believe the other one is for a/c

 

The Air Bypass Solenoid on a series four (AWS on a series five) is used during cold starts to make the engine rev to approx three grand for seventeen seconds. It works in conjunction with the BAC which also goes full open during this seventeen second start up period.

It ain't needed. Block off the outlet of that valve and the nipple it connects to on the right hand side of the intercooler (series four), or.....remove it altogether and block off the hose that fed it from the bac.

Remove the Air Supply Valve. Only sissys boys use power steering in a car as light as this one. humor, please.

 

ok, im going to block off the hose that fed it from the bac, what if i want to keep the air supply valve cuz i plan on keeping the ps. where do i plug that into? thanks alot for your help.

eric.

 

You'd have to put/weld a nipple on the intercooler piping somewhere after the turbo discharge port/pipe/whatever its called.....and run that hose that went to the aft side of the original intercooler to the new nipple.

 

cant i reroute it back into the tb somewhere so it can get vacuum? and by teh aft end of the orignial intercooler u mean the one that didnt go to the bac valve right?

eric.

 

It needs to get air (not vacuum) from somewhere between the turbo outlet and the TB inlet.

 

the one closest to the bac valve is the asv correct and the other one is the aws correct?

eric.

 

The Air Supply Valve is bolted to the BACK of the intake manifold.

The Air Bypass Solenoid is locate on the top of the intake manifold and is within a inch and a half of the BAC.

That's on a series four.

 

cool thanks, im going to block off the air bypass solenoid cuz i dont need the 3krpm cold start and try to get the avs air some how.

eric.

 

What kind of FMIC did you buy??? And what kind of turbo? Is it a hybrid? or??? I have a hybrid with a Greddy fmic. I found that under boost, when I let off the throttle I could hear the afm's flap/vane clanking when I let off the throtte. That was because I omitted to install a bov. Since then I installed a Apexi dual bov and the vane/flap does not clank anymore. It did that because of turbo surge which I'm become to believe is indeed detrimenta (sp) to the turbo.

To install the bov or source of air for the bac you need to probably weld on a couple of nipples to the output pipe from the turbo the intercooler. I took another approach to that, that is too complicated to describe is the few minutes I have right now. I still have no source for my bac. I'll address that someday, someday, someday. Probably someday.

 

i got the greddy two row, im currently running the stock s4 turbo, but have a hybrid in my room. im picking up the flange from ghetto dave to weld on my bov at the end of this week. from what i saw was that the fmic came with a big blue cap. so i figured it was used to block off the line where the bac and the bov adaptor hooked up. and i blocked that off. should i have done that? right now without the bov, the car wont idle. y? is it becuase i didnt hook up the asv line? or is it becuase i capped off the bac where it used to hook up with the bov?

eric

 

Cap off the line air supply line.

It probably won't idle as it was before because the is inoperable without a source of air. You blocked that source off with your big blue cap. I capped that line with a copper tube filled with plumbers solder. They probably gave me a blue cap. I forget. It could be around somewhere. For now, to get a idle, I had to adjust the throttle stop screw on the aft side of the throttle linkage. It's a very small screw held in place with a eight mm wrench size jamnut. You loosen the nut and turn the screw til it holds the throttle plates open a touch more for a faster idle. I WILL someday, someday, someday soon, someday, make a place to attach my bac feed hose to....someday soon. Instead of sitting here on my dead *** tyhping on a computer.

The air supply valve should only be operating when the steering is turned one way or the other. Anyway, cap the line off with something especially if you feel air being sucked into it at idle.

 

so i cap off both the aws and the asv?

eric

 

btw, thanks for all ur help

 

If he's keeping the stock AFM why not plumb a line after the AFM and prior to the turbo—that way the BAC is getting metered air and not seeing boost. I haven't been stock in a while and I can't remember if the BAC ever saw boost in stock form.

I'm waiting for my new wiring harness to come in so I can finish installing the Wolf 3D V4 PnP. The Wolf unit has a MAP sensor built in requiring only a vacuum line from the manifold. Although I'm getting rid of my stock AFM I am keeping my BAC -- the Wolf runs it -- and I'm trying to determine the best source for the BAC. Can I just put a little filter on the BAC as it no longer requires metered air?

B

 

The stock BAC is fed from the pipe between the turbo and intercooler, and has no problem seeing boost. It can be fed air from anywhere between the AFM and the TB.

I've never liked this approach. The MAP sensor line is best kept as short as possible to improve its response time.

Yes.

 

(sorry to ressurect this, but its pertinant)

im getting nipples welded on my IC pipe for the BAC and ASV. My ONLY problem now, is that i am getting the afm 'slap' when i blow off. my bov is welded near the TB. this is on the greddy kit.

does it matter that my afm is angled UP a little bit? this is a series 5 car, and i read that it didnt matter if the afm was angled on s5, but that could be complete B.S.

any help is appreciated! thanks!

edit: my afm is located on my homemade TID which goes:

filter -> afm -> slightly bent pipe -> turbo

the 'slightly bent pipe' is the smaller peice from a cheap FD intake piping kit i got

 

You really should've started your own thread.


Uh, this is not supposed to be happening...
Unless you're totally stalling the turbo???
Then your BOV is not working right?

That is correct.
The S5 AFM isn't affected by gravity as much as the flapper-door S4's do.


-Ted

 

the bov seems to be working fine, and worked fine before the fmic install.

its an hks ssqv, i dont think theres much adjustment on there at all :/