DiverseCC

looking for a good aftermarket flywheel, looking at mazdatrix anyone ever use them, steel or alum? or anyone know of a better place to get one? thanks

Bad2ndgen

people say not to use a super light flywheel on the street, but i love my 9# indigo from sr motorsports. its aluminum and has a replacible friction surface. it doesn't seem to hurt the drivability very much.

13bpower

I was thinking of getting a lightweight flywheel as well. Is there a cheaper way of getting an aluminum ($500) flywheel. What is the lightest one out there?

fastrotaries

if you have an N/A (which has higher compression than a TII) you really won't have any problems running a 9 lbs flywheel. the higher compression is fine during idle and take off aren't that tough. On a TII though some people feel that a 9# is too low, especially if you live in an area with hills or have to do a lot of city traffic. I've driven one and didn't think it was TOO bad. personally i use a 17 lbs racing beat unit. I have for sale a 17 RB light weight steel flywheel for 89-95 rotary engines. www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda2.htm used 6 months will be resurfaced $300 shipped within 48 states.

scathcart

Why are you selling it? Just curious if you're going with a different flywheel, I was thinking about getting the kind you're selling for my 20B project.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Here's the wood on flywheels -

First off, aluminum flywheels are easily driveable. If you can drive a stick well and get going smoothly from a stop, you can drive an aluminum flywheel easily. Hell, I taught a chick I was dating how to drive a stick on my T2 with an ACT Xtreme pressure plate, aluminum flywheel, street port, and big turbo - she had no problems.

That said, the biggest problem with a light flywheel is it's about $100-150 worth of benefit for $400. It is really nice driving a car with a light flywheel, but it's just pricey for the results - this ain't a bang for the buck mod. Not to mention it's a good chunk of work to install.

I don't recommend steel flywheels - the only reason being when you spend that much money, it isn't that big of a difference. Mind you, a good used steel flywheel would be a worthy buy with a good price, but if you are looking to buy one new, get the aluminum and don't hesistate - trust me on this one, you'll thank me later. I've known a few people who have bought steel flywheels and after the sizeable expense felt gypped that the response wasn't worth the price.

Don't get me wrong - steel flywheels ARE better, but aluminum is a better bang for the buck. If you have trouble driving a car with an aluminum flywheel, go back to Driving a Stick 101 .

Another option to factor in is chromoly flywheels - Jun makes a kickass one that's reasonably priced, similar to an aluminum flywheel. The upside is chromoly is super hard and strong, and it's close to an aluminum flywheel in weight, around 10 pounds. Aluminum flywheels can't be turned, but they do have replaceable steel friction surfaces, so that isn't a super big deal.

Welp, there's my long post on the topic - enjoy .

Dale

HOZZMANRX7

iTrader: (43)

Differing opinions. Mine is opposite of dcfc3s.

If this is your daily driver and you deal with daily stop and go traffic to and from work, then I highly recommend AGAINST the aluminum flywheel.

If stop and go traffic is a rare thing for you to deal with, then Aluminum is a fine choice.

I've been driving manuals for 30 years. But, the aluminum flywheel requires extra slip clutching to keep from stalling from a stop light/stopped traffic. A real drag, big enough that I pulled my aluminum and bought a new lightened steel despite the extra cost.

You're being much smarter than I was by asking ahead of time.

Good luck, and drive well.

breesej

this is a subjective topic, here's my 2 cents:

I have the RB steel flywheel in my GXL street port. very nice starting and revs a lot quicker. There is more clutch work needed, but It's not that noticable. I would recommend buying the steel one and see how it feels for a while, if you don't like it, just upgrade the next time you do a clutch job and sell the flywheel to someone else.

von

whats the 60foot times of a light aluminum flywheel.

I want to hear yours?

Rotorific

iTrader: (1)

try to steer away from aluminum flywheels and streetports that tends to get tricky on hills and stop and go traffic..it gets jerky unless your going for the ultimate street strip combo that is the way to go but for drivability i would get a heavier lightened flywheel chromoloy or steel with a streetport or just an aluminum stock motor

RX7FC3S

I have the JUN ultra-lightweight chromoly flywheel at 4.2 kilos or around 9 1/4 pounds. Have yet to install the engine so I don't know how it'll drive but I don't think it should be much of a problem since I'm not really picky about drivability. You might want to think about your personal preferences when choosing. Are you willing to sacrifice a some drivability for some performance or not and such. Don't forget the JUN flywheel doesn't come with the counterweight so you will have to buy it used or new at around $100-120.

adamlewis

So I guess 9lbs flywheel + Unsprung 6 puck clutch = bad?

Jimmy325i

I just had a stock flywheel lightend for a little over 50 bucks. Took 1/4" off the face and shaved the mounting points to match. Only other install mod will be to shim the slave cylinder rod to make up for the additional travel.

I haven't weighed it yet but its a noticible difference over stock.

HOZZMANRX7

iTrader: (43)

How do you do that any significant amount??

ShaunB

Whats the best flywheel for drag racing, stock, light steel, or aluminum. thanks shaunb

breesej

stock, you'll need the inertia to get you off the line

Rotorific

iTrader: (1)

not really true you can use a lightened flywheel if you have the power to match it if you have a stock car (or a few mods) then you should have a stock flywheel to match If you have the mods to seriously move the car then a lightweight steel or even aluminum would be fine just know that your going to have to launch at a higher rpm