pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Car is an 86 (NA, stock)...

Buddy says it's better to remove the pins on the flywheel and machine the wear surface and surface where the pins are to ensure same clamping load.

I feel a few .0XX shouldn't change clamping load much and figure most flywheel machining is probably just done on the wear surface on our flywheels.

Thoughts?

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

I know some machinists will make sure they're removed regardless to turn the whole face down, it may also be so that the pins don't crash into the machine. I would just pull them, put them in a bag, reinstall when the flywheel is done.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Yes but would/should the pin mounting face be machined too?

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Your buddy is right.

Yes it will change the clamping load, especially as your disk wears. Get a proper machine job. There is a machine made that will take both the face and the pin locations. The shop will pull the pins, machine both surfaces and reinsert the pins. Then you are done. There is a local guy that has a machine and it works fantastic. Charges $12 for the service and lets me watch.

On the other hand I resurfaced my 90 Vert flywheel by hand before I found the guy. I used emory cloth and worked the heat marks uniformly out of the surface. I have had no slipping or chattering issues. I did not take much material off.

nycgps

iTrader: (4)

I took my Flywheel to a shop in long island (an hour drive) to have everything done for 40 bux. He removed the pins and did everything. nice and shinny. no chattering so far.

farberio

iTrader: (7)

Yup, any competent machine shop will know how to service a flywheel and should be able to remove the pins to machine that part.

Oh, and they charge a couple bucks extra for a stepped flywheel, so don't feel like they are yanking you if they give you that excuse.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Sounds good. Thank you all.

Background - dealing with clutch chatter and have it narrowed down to maybe a bent clutch disk from resting too much weight from the tranny last time I put the tranny in. So when the new clutch goes in I want to make sure everything is done properly.

More info to come...

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Speed - remember, the NA flywheel is stepped, and the clutch cover/pressure plate mounting surface (where the pins are) is raised.

Jackchild - damn that's a good price...don't see a location in your profile...but it'll be much more around here.

About the chatter - still driving around with the current clutch...will get an extra flywheel machined so I can swap it without waiting around and put in a new clutch kit incl. pilot bearing and seal when a buddy and I have some time. The chatter is not TOO bad, but I want it near perfect.

Turns out 'hanging the tranny' and bending the clutch disk is more common than I thought. Will post a pic. of the Exedy clutch kit instructions (btw, Exedy ownd Daikin, the OEM mnfg. for a bunch incl. Mazda).

Also, I had the bearings (not sure if all, I was a young punk then and still a bit now lol) in the tranny replaced, but get a bit of noise in neutral, clutch disengaged (pedal pressed). Maybe I need an input shaft bearing? I can borrow another tranny while I sort mine out (I want it near perfect too, lol) - is this a good call?

Edit: Don't hang the tranny - easy to do when you don't have a helper or a tranny jack - I think this is what I did but will know soon enough for sure when I redo the job. It helps to loosen the engine mounts and tilt the back of the engine down to align things and also have a helper spin the engine a little, slowly, to help engage the splines - see link:

http://www.exedyusa.com/multimedia/s...structions.pdf

FelixIsGod29X

iTrader: (50)

What town was the shop in? Im on L.I