flooding problems
#1
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flooding problems
i have an 88 that likes to flood wfter it has been sitting longer than an hour after it has been driven. so if i were to drive the car and try to start it after it has been sitting for less than an hour, it will start. any time between an hour and about 3 hours, it will act like it is flooded. any time after about an hour it will normally start fine. i think ive seen a post about this a while ago, but i dont remeber what the cause of this is, or the remedy. could i have your guys input please. thanks
#2
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Do a search for "flooding"... Your injectors are probably leaking, which explains why it takes some time for it to flood..
A simple, quick fix is to install a fuel cutoff switch.. Search for that--I'm sure you'll find it.
-Tesla
A simple, quick fix is to install a fuel cutoff switch.. Search for that--I'm sure you'll find it.
-Tesla
#3
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I have the exact same problem. I have searched "flooded" posts and also posted some of my own questions. From what I can tell there are several theories.
I think my problem is the following; After shutdown the injectors don't close all the way and slowly leak. The fuel rail pressure slowly drops as the injectors leak into the chambers which floods the engine. The reason the injectors aren't closing could be due to debris causing them to stick slightly open. I am thinking of pulling my injectors and giving them a good cleaning, using a homemade injector driver and a can of gumout. (While being careful not to leave current on the injector for more than a few seconds.)
Other theories include an inherent problem with the start logorithm. Someone makes a small black box to "remedy" that problem. I have forgotten the manufacturer, and the link.
Another way to avoid flooding is to install a switch to the fuel pump. You can either cut the power to the fuel pump off before shutdown, which bleeds down the rail pressure. Or, have the pump switched off during cranking, and when you first hear it hit, turn the pump on.
I believe MazdaTrix sells an inline fuel valve that is said to help diagnose the problem. It sells for about $55. I believe the idea with that is to try it out and if it fixes the problem, you more than likely have an injector problem.
I have also heard that the older and more worn an engine is, the more likely it will flood. If it doesn't have great compression, it has a harder time starting when extremely rich.
Hope this helps. I'm sure I'm missing stuff that I have seen on other flood related posts.
Keep us posted,
-john
I think my problem is the following; After shutdown the injectors don't close all the way and slowly leak. The fuel rail pressure slowly drops as the injectors leak into the chambers which floods the engine. The reason the injectors aren't closing could be due to debris causing them to stick slightly open. I am thinking of pulling my injectors and giving them a good cleaning, using a homemade injector driver and a can of gumout. (While being careful not to leave current on the injector for more than a few seconds.)
Other theories include an inherent problem with the start logorithm. Someone makes a small black box to "remedy" that problem. I have forgotten the manufacturer, and the link.
Another way to avoid flooding is to install a switch to the fuel pump. You can either cut the power to the fuel pump off before shutdown, which bleeds down the rail pressure. Or, have the pump switched off during cranking, and when you first hear it hit, turn the pump on.
I believe MazdaTrix sells an inline fuel valve that is said to help diagnose the problem. It sells for about $55. I believe the idea with that is to try it out and if it fixes the problem, you more than likely have an injector problem.
I have also heard that the older and more worn an engine is, the more likely it will flood. If it doesn't have great compression, it has a harder time starting when extremely rich.
Hope this helps. I'm sure I'm missing stuff that I have seen on other flood related posts.
Keep us posted,
-john
#4
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if the injectors are leaking, is it more than likely the primaries, or could it also be the secondaries? is there a way to fix them if that would come to be the problem, or should i just replace them?
#5
My 88 T2 has been flooding alot too. So I took my injectors out ( both secondaries and primaries) and sent them off to RC engineering for cleaning/balancing/bluprinting. I hope this will cure the problem. I'll let you know when I put them back on..
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