just wondering if you can fix the AFM i think my fuel pump switch is screwed in it

 

If you're SURE the AFM is bad, what would it hurt to look and see?

Mine failed, and I got extremely lucky. I took off the black plastic cover, and saw that a little piece of foil shielding was bent over and touching an adjacent terminal (right at the connector plug). I have no idea what would have caused it to do that, but the AFM worked great when I pulled the foil away from the terminal. If it hadn't been something very obvious like that, I wouldn't have been able to fix it, though.

 

i thought i was it i just checked it with a multi tester and it looked ok but gotta check again tomorrow its my fuel pump that wont kick on

 

I'm pretty sure HAILERS has fixed the AFM's fuel pump switch. Maybe he can help.

 

already messaged him

 

HAILERS NEVER answers pm's unless he's selling something or buying something and as of today he ain't a gonna even do that anymore. I sent a guy a cruise control unit for a series four car and he was supposed to send me his series five plus the shipping charge of five bucks. Here it is months later and there ain't no five bucks in my mail box nor a cruise control unit. Lesson learned. Shoulda known better. What do they call a person who keeps doing the same thing over and over expecting different result? Yeah.

Anyway..... if you know that with a meter you don't have continuity across the far left pin on the afm and the one next to it, with the vane closed, then it's possible it can be fixed. Just in case that wasn't clear, it's the last two pins on the far left that you check continuity across. Far left being looking into the afm plug with the afm in the same position that it sits in the car.

Just get an exacto knife and run it around the large, black, plastic cover. Your cutting the RTV that holds it in place when you do that. Then with a thin screwdrive pry the cover off.

Follow the two pins at the far left of the afm jack to the inside of the afm. You'll readily see how they make contact as you move the vane from shut to open.

You could with small needle nose pliers bend the second pins internal end towards the first one. Before I did that I'd look real close and make SURE they are or are not touching when the vane is closed. The contact should be *making* when the vane is closed. If it is touching you might get some emery cloth and try cleaning the contact b/t the two.

Do not be messing around with the screws and rotating anything inside the afm to try to make the switch make.

Has someone already been inside your afm????? If they have, that could be why the switch does not *make*.

 

Here's some internal afm internal pictures. It really won't make sense til you take the black plastic cover off. The first jpg shows the contacts, the others are just bigger views.

 

.......

 

cool thanks

 

You mean to tell us that if the key is to ON and you push the afm's vane back at least 1/16 inch or more, that you don't hear the fuel pump running?

 

the pump is running now i just couldn't hear it before but the wierd thing is i bypassed the fuel pump switch it started up for a few seconds idling at like 400 rpm and i gave it gas and nothing then it just shut off and now it wont start at all and now its making like a clicking noise under the hood kinda like a banging noise and it was starting fine the other day untill i put on my cone filter and new fuel line then my friend was screwing with the idle screw on the throttle body and he droped the AFM i put on a new AFM now thats not the prob so wft??

 

Oh. A clicking but no starter action. The engine does not spin???? Possible starter solenoid making just the clicking sound. Try going to start a number of times. Sometimes if you try five or six times the starter will engage. Theres other possibilities.

 

sorry should of been more clear it cranks over fine but i just cranks doesn't start but i hear that noise under the hood