Fix spring or run premix?
10-11-06, 09:40 AM
#1
87 Blastard
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Fix spring or run premix?
Ok Rotary heads I have a little situation. Im currently doing a motor swap (Back yard project) and this is my first offical swap and I have everything plugged up and ready to go but I did the dumbest thing and took off the spring from the oil metering pump (Where the cable from the throttle body runs to the oil metering pump) And it's been days and still no luck recoiling it back into place, so I was wondering can I block off my oil metering pump and run a premix system? Have seen it done but Im not to sure myself what all needs to be done. I do have a good general idea. Tell me what you all think, thanks!
10-11-06, 12:32 PM
#2
HAILERS
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PREMIX SUCKS, ALWAYS HAS, ALWAYS WILL. You can if you want to though. Carry a bottle of oil and funnel with you. At the station install the funnel (best to be a long funnel), pour the oil in, THEN get the gas pump out and fill thru the funnel for a moment to clean the oil off the funnel. Now put the funnel on the pavement inverted so the residue will fall off and then fill the tank up. By the time you fill the car up, Most of the gas will have evaporated so you can chunk it in the trunk as is or wipe with a clean rag. I can't believe anyone does this in this day and age.
Sorry, but there never was a *cable* to the OMP on any series RX7, so it's hard to follow you on the SPRING. There is a return spring on the LEVER of the OMP and it helps to remove the lever and then reinstall the return spring. I stuggle each time I have to do that, but I get the job done anyway.
There's supposed to be a metal ROD b/t the OMP and the throttle body lever. You probably just substituted cable for rod though.
Sorry, but there never was a *cable* to the OMP on any series RX7, so it's hard to follow you on the SPRING. There is a return spring on the LEVER of the OMP and it helps to remove the lever and then reinstall the return spring. I stuggle each time I have to do that, but I get the job done anyway.
There's supposed to be a metal ROD b/t the OMP and the throttle body lever. You probably just substituted cable for rod though.
10-11-06, 12:54 PM
#6
Originally Posted by J-Rat
Yeah, never mind those pesky premix motors that come apart looking pristine..
Last edited by wthdidusay82; 10-11-06 at 12:56 PM.
10-11-06, 04:10 PM
#7
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Premixing isnt such a bad option.
I do it because I have to, I have no way to control the electric OMP that came on my motor.
Mixing it up and having in the car is kind of a pain in the ***, but I would be screaming it sucks in caps, lol.
I do it because I have to, I have no way to control the electric OMP that came on my motor.
Mixing it up and having in the car is kind of a pain in the ***, but I would be screaming it sucks in caps, lol.
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10-12-06, 11:28 AM
#8
87 Blastard
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I really appreciate the advice and yes HAILERS I did use the word cable instead of rod but I see what your saying about running a premix I really didn't want to in the first place but It's a bitch getting that spring back on. Is there any easier way to get it on or something?
10-12-06, 12:16 PM
#9
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It almost sounds like the OMP is bolted to the engine and you removed the nut that holds the lever in place which in turn meant the return spring came off.
I'll tell you what, I've never put the lever and spring back on a OMP that was attached to the engine much less with the engine in the car.
IF that is the case, the omp on the engine, then I'd remove the OMP from the engine and then install the lever/spring. The OMP is held on with two 10mm wrench size bolts plus you'd have to remove the four banjo bolts to the OMP. It's not that easy but not that hard either. Time consuming yes.
I doubt I could put that spring on the OMP with the OMP on the engine. It'd drive me up the wall. Attached are a couple of jpgs of a OMP. It's out of a first gen car because I couldn't readily find a series four at the moment. The lever and spring are on the whole the same. JPG might help, might very well NOT.
Bottom line: if it's on the engine, remove the OMP and then struggle for a half hr to install the lever/spring. Never ever pre-mix (take that! RAT) humor
I'll tell you what, I've never put the lever and spring back on a OMP that was attached to the engine much less with the engine in the car.
IF that is the case, the omp on the engine, then I'd remove the OMP from the engine and then install the lever/spring. The OMP is held on with two 10mm wrench size bolts plus you'd have to remove the four banjo bolts to the OMP. It's not that easy but not that hard either. Time consuming yes.
I doubt I could put that spring on the OMP with the OMP on the engine. It'd drive me up the wall. Attached are a couple of jpgs of a OMP. It's out of a first gen car because I couldn't readily find a series four at the moment. The lever and spring are on the whole the same. JPG might help, might very well NOT.
Bottom line: if it's on the engine, remove the OMP and then struggle for a half hr to install the lever/spring. Never ever pre-mix (take that! RAT) humor
10-12-06, 12:31 PM
#10
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Just FYI. On the OMP in the jpg above, where I took the lever and spring off, I just put it back on the pump.
The way I do it, is to leave the nut/washer off. The put the end of the spring that wraps around the round cylinder looking outfit on first. The I offer up the lever to the other end of the spring. Then I WIND the spring by rotating it. You have to have the lever towards the outside of the post it attaches to so you can wind the lever around the fixed stop pin on the body. THEN install the washer/nut loosley and push the lever all the way inboard watching carefully to keep the spring from getting under the lever arm.
It's hard to explain, but do able if the OMP is off the engine and on a table.
The way I do it, is to leave the nut/washer off. The put the end of the spring that wraps around the round cylinder looking outfit on first. The I offer up the lever to the other end of the spring. Then I WIND the spring by rotating it. You have to have the lever towards the outside of the post it attaches to so you can wind the lever around the fixed stop pin on the body. THEN install the washer/nut loosley and push the lever all the way inboard watching carefully to keep the spring from getting under the lever arm.
It's hard to explain, but do able if the OMP is off the engine and on a table.
10-12-06, 12:40 PM
#11
Originally Posted by HAILERS
PREMIX SUCKS, ALWAYS HAS, ALWAYS WILL. You can if you want to though. Carry a bottle of oil and funnel with you. At the station install the funnel (best to be a long funnel), pour the oil in, THEN get the gas pump out and fill thru the funnel for a moment to clean the oil off the funnel. Now put the funnel on the pavement inverted so the residue will fall off and then fill the tank up. By the time you fill the car up, Most of the gas will have evaporated so you can chunk it in the trunk as is or wipe with a clean rag. I can't believe anyone does this in this day and age.
U R done
10-12-06, 12:42 PM
#12
Originally Posted by wtfdidusay82
If the motor does not have brand new rotor housings it really wont make that big of a difference as it would if the housings were brand new. I think on old housings it not worth your time (housings with 100K+ milage
10-12-06, 12:43 PM
#13
Respecognize!
i run premix on my turboII since i got it running. basically didnt a choice seeing i did have ANY on the metering lines, vac lines etc. just the pump. so i got rid of that thing.
10-12-06, 02:13 PM
#15
Originally Posted by gxl90rx7
i am too worried about premix lowering your octane to do it on my TII. i premix my n/a though, but only because i accidentally broke one of my oil lines, and dont drive it a lot anyway, lol
10-12-06, 02:20 PM
#16
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by HAILERS
Carry a bottle of oil and funnel with you. At the station install the funnel (best to be a long funnel), pour the oil in, THEN get the gas pump out and fill thru the funnel for a moment to clean the oil off the funnel. Now put the funnel on the pavement inverted so the residue will fall off and then fill the tank up. By the time you fill the car up, Most of the gas will have evaporated so you can chunk it in the trunk as is or wipe with a clean rag. I can't believe anyone does this in this day and age.
Do they even sell oil in cans anymore?
10-12-06, 02:42 PM
#19
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87Blackone.......ignore the oil dribbler's post above and concentrate on putting the spring back on.........while try to find one of THEIR posts, say one of their posts on why their car won't start/charge/stop, and make replys on THEIR threads on how to open and close the ashtray or adjust the seat instead of staying on their *topic*. Dribblers all.
10-12-06, 02:58 PM
#21
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by HAILERS
87Blackone.......ignore the oil dribbler's post above and concentrate on putting the spring back on.........while try to find one of THEIR posts, say one of their posts on why their car won't start/charge/stop, and make replys on THEIR threads on how to open and close the ashtray or adjust the seat instead of staying on their *topic*. Dribblers all.