If you cut corners on the OMP, I worry what other corners you will cut... like forgetting to add premix "just this once". Fix it.

Somebody in these forums makes hardware so you can run premix through your OMP - 2 cycle oil from a seperate reservoir, not motor oil from your crankcase. If I were to switch to 2 cycle oil only, that's how I'd do it. Right now I add 1/2 oz. per gallon, no funnel, no screwdriver, not a problem at all. Not the same as using only 2 cycle oil, I know, but it's cheap enough to do.

 

mazda from the beginning should have made a seperate oil reserivor for the OMP. It should have been able to hold 2-3 quarts of oil and been used like a coolant reservior, just fill it up every now and then, and your done

 

You can watch me every week, using one of these:

 

http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=50561

1oz per gallon is usually what you would see at WOT with the OMP operational. Actually probubly slightly less.

I have premixed for years and I started hating it within the 1st year. My advice to you is try to modify the omp to suck in 2 stroke from a resivour of your choice. Im going to use the cold start bottle.

You will spend a lot less money on 2 stroke when you use the omp.

 

Actually it drains pretty fast. I used this "method" earlier and was... please... with the results.

 

Does not work that great for the folks in the colder climates. Thick oil doesn't flow to well.

 

You keep it in your car, how cold can it get (assuming you have heat)?

 

You guys are great I appreciate all the info and again HAILERS You've helped me again Im going to take it off as soon as I get a chance and repost what happened! THANKS!

 

I'll stop with this last post, but here's a little help on the removal: It helps to do a little obstructional removal before removing the OMP. Obstructional removal meaning, that you remove the afm/filter and the airpump for cleaance.

It might SEEM more trouble but it makes things go a LOT faster/easier to remove those two items. You then have room to maneuver around to access the two OMP bolts. You'll find you use fewer swear words if you do the obstructional removal.

One other thing I've done is to put threads on the end of the rod where it goes thru the lever. It makes it easier to adjust the rod to the right clearance/slack per the fsm. I still use a cotter key though.

There is a oval O'ring where the OMP mates with the front cover. You can reuse it if your not experiencing leakage right now. I'd put just a smear and only a smear of RTV on the OMP from the 0'ring outwards on the pump. Gobs not allowed, only smears. Gobs goober things up and cause blockage.

 

Bought a small bottle of 2-cycle oil @ Wal-Mart, and use it to put the oil in the tank. It works just fine w/o funnel. It has ounce graduations on it.

I buy Valvoline TCW3 2-cycle oil @ NAPA. When time for fuel, I pour from the NAPA bottle into the WAL-Mart bottle up to the ounces I have estimated for the fuel giong in. My rate is 1/2 ounce per gal. (my OMP is hooked up, but I have reason not to trust it.) Then the complete contents of the WAL-Mart bottle go in right before the fuel.

With 60k on my NA rebuild, it runs like a champ (whatever a champ is)!

 

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