First time taking UIM off, What should I get
06-23-04, 11:19 PM
#1
Ban Peak
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iTrader: (49)
First time taking UIM off, What should I get
I'm going to take my UIM off in a few days, but I want to order parts I should replace. Please list off what i should get, SO Far, after having help from another forum member I've come up with:
1. (1)UIM to LIM gasket
2. (4)lower injector grommets
3. (4)injector O-rings
4. 3.5mm Vacuum hose
5. High Pressure Fuel Injector line (where to get and how much?)
Please add to this with essential things and tips, I want to do this right, and not have to do it twice. Please let me know of everything I could need, and an estimated price if possible.
Thanks,
-Ian Trumbore
(16 and slowly getting my free FC up to par)
1. (1)UIM to LIM gasket
2. (4)lower injector grommets
3. (4)injector O-rings
4. 3.5mm Vacuum hose
5. High Pressure Fuel Injector line (where to get and how much?)
Please add to this with essential things and tips, I want to do this right, and not have to do it twice. Please let me know of everything I could need, and an estimated price if possible.
Thanks,
-Ian Trumbore
(16 and slowly getting my free FC up to par)
06-23-04, 11:46 PM
#3
FPR (aka fuel pulsation dampner, aka fiery problem ready to happen).
Located on lower fuel rail.
ONe way to approach the problem:
www.rotaryresurrection.com/pulsation.html
Youll have a hard time finding 3.5mm hose locally. use 5/32" from autozone. I personally don't like silicone, most locally available types are the cheap thin stuff that collapses under vacuum and heat, and causes more problems than it solved. The rubber stuff fits perfectly, won't collapse or melt, and will last 5 years or more.
For fuel line, use 5/16" HIGH PRESSURE FUEL INJECTION hose. That is important, some fuel line is meant for low pressure carb setups. Dont forget the small hoseclamps, too. MIght as well do a fuel filter at the same time. IF you wanted, you could do a fuel pump pickup sock (filter in tank), and (if necessary) drain your old gas and clean the crud from the tank. This, combined with cleaned/new injectors, is how you recondition your entire fuel system at once, for under $200.
IF you're going so far as to get new injector orings, why not send them out for cleaning...you know they need it. It'll run you around $125 with shipping, and you get a reportcard before and after. Also, they normally supply new pintle caps (you will need them), grommets, and o-rings. Remember, there is an upper grommet, too. WHen you reinstall the injectors, use a little motor oil on the upper orings, being sure the fuel rail is dry and clean, and work them around in a circle, to prevent the oring from tearing.
You'll need plenty of shop towels to help clean stuff up with, and you'll need a good gasket scraper. I have found that those long, thin razor knives sometimes work well removing old gaskets...if you can get it under one corner of an old gasket, and you work it just right, often it'll lift the whole thing right off...whereas, if you do it by just pulling up, the thing will break and you'll be stuck scraping it off. Flat razorblades are helpful too, but be careful, the aluminum is damaged easily. The best tool is a coarse wire brush mounted to a fast drill, sideangle grinder, or diegrinder. This won't damage aluminum at all (it polishes it a little) but removes stubborn gasket fragments well. IF you choose this method, wear eye and respiratory protection, that old gasket **** flies everywhere. Dont forget to clean both the LIM and UIM surfaces...I also use a small amount of sealant on both sides of a gasket for a perfect seal.
Have some electrical tape on hand to rewrap the harness, as you'll undoubtedly have some frayed wires and unraveling loom.
You'll probably (if you have a turbo model) have to cut the coolant hose to the throttlebody, it is near impossible to get to in the car. Have a few feet of coolant line (I believe that is 3/8") on hand to effect this repair. I have a special method for replacing this hose ona turbo model...if you have an NA, you have no problems getting to the stock one, and reusing it. Have hose clamps for this, as well, just in case.
Located on lower fuel rail.
ONe way to approach the problem:
www.rotaryresurrection.com/pulsation.html
Youll have a hard time finding 3.5mm hose locally. use 5/32" from autozone. I personally don't like silicone, most locally available types are the cheap thin stuff that collapses under vacuum and heat, and causes more problems than it solved. The rubber stuff fits perfectly, won't collapse or melt, and will last 5 years or more.
For fuel line, use 5/16" HIGH PRESSURE FUEL INJECTION hose. That is important, some fuel line is meant for low pressure carb setups. Dont forget the small hoseclamps, too. MIght as well do a fuel filter at the same time. IF you wanted, you could do a fuel pump pickup sock (filter in tank), and (if necessary) drain your old gas and clean the crud from the tank. This, combined with cleaned/new injectors, is how you recondition your entire fuel system at once, for under $200.
IF you're going so far as to get new injector orings, why not send them out for cleaning...you know they need it. It'll run you around $125 with shipping, and you get a reportcard before and after. Also, they normally supply new pintle caps (you will need them), grommets, and o-rings. Remember, there is an upper grommet, too. WHen you reinstall the injectors, use a little motor oil on the upper orings, being sure the fuel rail is dry and clean, and work them around in a circle, to prevent the oring from tearing.
You'll need plenty of shop towels to help clean stuff up with, and you'll need a good gasket scraper. I have found that those long, thin razor knives sometimes work well removing old gaskets...if you can get it under one corner of an old gasket, and you work it just right, often it'll lift the whole thing right off...whereas, if you do it by just pulling up, the thing will break and you'll be stuck scraping it off. Flat razorblades are helpful too, but be careful, the aluminum is damaged easily. The best tool is a coarse wire brush mounted to a fast drill, sideangle grinder, or diegrinder. This won't damage aluminum at all (it polishes it a little) but removes stubborn gasket fragments well. IF you choose this method, wear eye and respiratory protection, that old gasket **** flies everywhere. Dont forget to clean both the LIM and UIM surfaces...I also use a small amount of sealant on both sides of a gasket for a perfect seal.
Have some electrical tape on hand to rewrap the harness, as you'll undoubtedly have some frayed wires and unraveling loom.
You'll probably (if you have a turbo model) have to cut the coolant hose to the throttlebody, it is near impossible to get to in the car. Have a few feet of coolant line (I believe that is 3/8") on hand to effect this repair. I have a special method for replacing this hose ona turbo model...if you have an NA, you have no problems getting to the stock one, and reusing it. Have hose clamps for this, as well, just in case.
Last edited by RotaryResurrection; 06-23-04 at 11:54 PM.
06-23-04, 11:50 PM
#4
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This might help a little
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory_service_manual/
Get about 4 feet of High Pressure Fuel hose so that you can replace all of the hose for the supply and return under the hood. You can pick that up at any local part store.
I would add in upper injector grommets. You could check out all the prices for those parts on mazdatrix.com as a reference on total cost.
Be careful when scraping off the old gasket you don’t want to cut into the aluminum because it could cause an intake leak. As fare as advise be patient take your time don’t rush it.
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory_service_manual/
Get about 4 feet of High Pressure Fuel hose so that you can replace all of the hose for the supply and return under the hood. You can pick that up at any local part store.
I would add in upper injector grommets. You could check out all the prices for those parts on mazdatrix.com as a reference on total cost.
Be careful when scraping off the old gasket you don’t want to cut into the aluminum because it could cause an intake leak. As fare as advise be patient take your time don’t rush it.
06-23-04, 11:59 PM
#5
And fuel injection hose is expensive, just so you know - around $5/ft for 5/16" - and is a pain to find in some place (took me 3 auto shops to get it - and the 3rd one couldn't believe the others didn't have it).
-=Russ=-
-=Russ=-
06-24-04, 12:02 AM
#6
Ban Peak
Thread Starter
iTrader: (49)
Originally posted by RotaryResurrection
FPR (aka fuel pulsation dampner, aka fiery problem ready to happen).
Located on lower fuel rail.
ONe way to approach the problem:
www.rotaryresurrection.com/pulsation.html
Youll have a hard time finding 3.5mm hose locally. use 5/32" from autozone. I personally don't like silicone, most locally available types are the cheap thin stuff that collapses under vacuum and heat, and causes more problems than it solved. The rubber stuff fits perfectly, won't collapse or melt, and will last 5 years or more.
For fuel line, use 5/16" HIGH PRESSURE FUEL INJECTION hose. That is important, some fuel line is meant for low pressure carb setups. Dont forget the small hoseclamps, too. MIght as well do a fuel filter at the same time. IF you wanted, you could do a fuel pump pickup sock (filter in tank), and (if necessary) drain your old gas and clean the crud from the tank. This, combined with cleaned/new injectors, is how you recondition your entire fuel system at once, for under $200.
IF you're going so far as to get new injector orings, why not send them out for cleaning...you know they need it. It'll run you around $125 with shipping, and you get a reportcard before and after. Also, they normally supply new pintle caps (you will need them), grommets, and o-rings. Remember, there is an upper grommet, too. WHen you reinstall the injectors, use a little motor oil on the upper orings, being sure the fuel rail is dry and clean, and work them around in a circle, to prevent the oring from tearing.
You'll need plenty of shop towels to help clean stuff up with, and you'll need a good gasket scraper. I have found that those long, thin razor knives sometimes work well removing old gaskets...if you can get it under one corner of an old gasket, and you work it just right, often it'll lift the whole thing right off...whereas, if you do it by just pulling up, the thing will break and you'll be stuck scraping it off. Flat razorblades are helpful too, but be careful, the aluminum is damaged easily. The best tool is a coarse wire brush mounted to a fast drill, sideangle grinder, or diegrinder. This won't damage aluminum at all (it polishes it a little) but removes stubborn gasket fragments well. IF you choose this method, wear eye and respiratory protection, that old gasket **** flies everywhere. Dont forget to clean both the LIM and UIM surfaces...I also use a small amount of sealant on both sides of a gasket for a perfect seal.
Have some electrical tape on hand to rewrap the harness, as you'll undoubtedly have some frayed wires and unraveling loom.
You'll probably (if you have a turbo model) have to cut the coolant hose to the throttlebody, it is near impossible to get to in the car. Have a few feet of coolant line (I believe that is 3/8") on hand to effect this repair. I have a special method for replacing this hose ona turbo model...if you have an NA, you have no problems getting to the stock one, and reusing it. Have hose clamps for this, as well, just in case.
FPR (aka fuel pulsation dampner, aka fiery problem ready to happen).
Located on lower fuel rail.
ONe way to approach the problem:
www.rotaryresurrection.com/pulsation.html
Youll have a hard time finding 3.5mm hose locally. use 5/32" from autozone. I personally don't like silicone, most locally available types are the cheap thin stuff that collapses under vacuum and heat, and causes more problems than it solved. The rubber stuff fits perfectly, won't collapse or melt, and will last 5 years or more.
For fuel line, use 5/16" HIGH PRESSURE FUEL INJECTION hose. That is important, some fuel line is meant for low pressure carb setups. Dont forget the small hoseclamps, too. MIght as well do a fuel filter at the same time. IF you wanted, you could do a fuel pump pickup sock (filter in tank), and (if necessary) drain your old gas and clean the crud from the tank. This, combined with cleaned/new injectors, is how you recondition your entire fuel system at once, for under $200.
IF you're going so far as to get new injector orings, why not send them out for cleaning...you know they need it. It'll run you around $125 with shipping, and you get a reportcard before and after. Also, they normally supply new pintle caps (you will need them), grommets, and o-rings. Remember, there is an upper grommet, too. WHen you reinstall the injectors, use a little motor oil on the upper orings, being sure the fuel rail is dry and clean, and work them around in a circle, to prevent the oring from tearing.
You'll need plenty of shop towels to help clean stuff up with, and you'll need a good gasket scraper. I have found that those long, thin razor knives sometimes work well removing old gaskets...if you can get it under one corner of an old gasket, and you work it just right, often it'll lift the whole thing right off...whereas, if you do it by just pulling up, the thing will break and you'll be stuck scraping it off. Flat razorblades are helpful too, but be careful, the aluminum is damaged easily. The best tool is a coarse wire brush mounted to a fast drill, sideangle grinder, or diegrinder. This won't damage aluminum at all (it polishes it a little) but removes stubborn gasket fragments well. IF you choose this method, wear eye and respiratory protection, that old gasket **** flies everywhere. Dont forget to clean both the LIM and UIM surfaces...I also use a small amount of sealant on both sides of a gasket for a perfect seal.
Have some electrical tape on hand to rewrap the harness, as you'll undoubtedly have some frayed wires and unraveling loom.
You'll probably (if you have a turbo model) have to cut the coolant hose to the throttlebody, it is near impossible to get to in the car. Have a few feet of coolant line (I believe that is 3/8") on hand to effect this repair. I have a special method for replacing this hose ona turbo model...if you have an NA, you have no problems getting to the stock one, and reusing it. Have hose clamps for this, as well, just in case.
Where do you reccomend sending the fuel injectors?
Will you sell me the banjo bolt I need?
And finally, will the vacuum hose kit from RX7store be okay to use for the vacuum hose(I plan to replace all vacuum hoses this summer)?
Did I forget anything?
Thankyou again,
-Ian
I already replace the fuel filter!
06-24-04, 12:10 AM
#7
get the banjo bolt
reground the O-ring ground
Where do you reccomend sending the fuel injectors?
Will you sell me the banjo bolt I need?
And finally, will the vacuum hose kit from RX7store be okay to use for the vacuum hose(I plan to replace all vacuum hoses this summer)?
True, it probably comes with a few inches of the larger sizes hoses, but those usually don't even have to be replaced.
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06-24-04, 11:28 AM
#8
Ban Peak
Thread Starter
iTrader: (49)
Alright; thanks, I'll get ordering the stuff I need, and buying some of it locally. Also, can some one help me out with the number from one, or all three of these places:RC, marren motorsports, and cruzin performance?
Thanks again to everyone that helped me out.
-Ian Trumbore
Thanks again to everyone that helped me out.
-Ian Trumbore
06-24-04, 12:21 PM
#9
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It also might be worth the time to check around locally. I found a local turbo and diesel shop that cleaned and blueprinted my injectors. They didn't have all the replacement injector grommets, but pep boys actually had the ones I needed in stock. As for the injector fuel hose, I got mine from Advance Discount Auto Parts, and they actually charged me for the non-fuel injected hose (cheaper). Don't forget some gasket sealant, I bought the non-permenant kind, which came in handy when I had to remove everything again later for something else.
Be real careful around your oil injector hoses, they can get really brittle, and break just from touching them. You might want to replace those if need be, but they ain't cheap.
Clean your EGR while you're under there.
And I don't know about you guys, but I had replaced all my vacuum hoses with new rubber hose. Less than a year later I decided to remove my emission equipment, and removed everything again. The rubber hose had already hardened in some spots, so I bought the Hose Techniques silicon vacuum hose. Has anyone else noticed the rubber hose hardening so quickly?
Be real careful around your oil injector hoses, they can get really brittle, and break just from touching them. You might want to replace those if need be, but they ain't cheap.
Clean your EGR while you're under there.
And I don't know about you guys, but I had replaced all my vacuum hoses with new rubber hose. Less than a year later I decided to remove my emission equipment, and removed everything again. The rubber hose had already hardened in some spots, so I bought the Hose Techniques silicon vacuum hose. Has anyone else noticed the rubber hose hardening so quickly?
06-24-04, 12:46 PM
#10
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RC seems to be the big name company that everyone likes to send their injectors to and is located in CA they charge about $25/injector or something in that area http://www.rceng.com/service.htm.
CruzinPerformance is probably the cheapest cleaning service you'll find, they charge $12/injector. http://www.cruzinperformance.com/fuelinj.html
CruzinPerformance is probably the cheapest cleaning service you'll find, they charge $12/injector. http://www.cruzinperformance.com/fuelinj.html
Last edited by fc3seeker; 06-24-04 at 12:49 PM.
06-24-04, 01:23 PM
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I'm very happy with RC, as I did not expect them to change the pintle caps and include all new grommets/o-rings.. plus they must have blasted the bodies and cleaned them up because they looked like new. Basically a brand new set of injectors for the $50 I paid for them + $113 for cleaning and shipping.
12-04-04, 01:48 AM
#12
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Pulling this thread up from a ways back I think.
Anyway, I'm going to be buying SVH from Hose Techniques (I'm secretly a ricer... ;P lol) and I'm wondering if anyone knows off hand how much hose I should order...
Guessing about 10ft of 3.5mm, but this is a COMPLETE overhaul. (Finishing the engine rebuild so everything will be real clean, want all the hoses replaced too) Are there any other vacuum hoses that are larger size that I should order a few feet of, or is everything 3.5mm?
Guess I'll have to go with the regular fuel line hose though since HT doesn't sell that heh...
Oh and this is for an S5 N/A with all emissions still intact.
--Gary
Anyway, I'm going to be buying SVH from Hose Techniques (I'm secretly a ricer... ;P lol) and I'm wondering if anyone knows off hand how much hose I should order...
Guessing about 10ft of 3.5mm, but this is a COMPLETE overhaul. (Finishing the engine rebuild so everything will be real clean, want all the hoses replaced too) Are there any other vacuum hoses that are larger size that I should order a few feet of, or is everything 3.5mm?
Guess I'll have to go with the regular fuel line hose though since HT doesn't sell that heh...
Oh and this is for an S5 N/A with all emissions still intact.
--Gary
12-04-04, 02:12 AM
#13
What are you replacing, fuel hose-wise? Just engine bay hose, or fuel hose all the way back to the tank?
Also, are you doing an emissions removal? If so, you'll need slightly more fuel hose, since you'll be replacing the vacuum rack with fuel hose.
-=Russ=-
Also, are you doing an emissions removal? If so, you'll need slightly more fuel hose, since you'll be replacing the vacuum rack with fuel hose.
-=Russ=-
12-04-04, 02:56 AM
#14
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Well on the fuel hose I'm not sure actually, I don't think I'll replace it all the way back to the pump unless I have to... but everything inside the engine bay I'd like to get replaced now.
All emissions are staying on... I live in California... ;p
--Gary
All emissions are staying on... I live in California... ;p
--Gary
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