slitherz90gxl

I'm not exactly new to rotaries but since my last engine, bought it rebuilt with 30k miles, blew up I decided to try to rebuild one on my own. This will be a budget rebuild using questionable rotor housings and mostly used hard seals. Everything is within spec though, but I'm not expecting more than 5,000 miles out of it. I'm just doing this as a trial run so I can get practice with the basics (i.e. setting end play, placement of seals, assembly, etc.)

I know that is is actually recommended that you just use sealent instead of an actual gasket on the oil pan, what about the front cover?
The front cover gasket is 35 dollars on average and I'm really trying to keep this within a 500 dollar budget. I searched and couldn't find the answer.. If I was just missing it I'm sorry.

I know this is only one question, but I figured I'd make this thread and then just repost whenever I've got another one as I'm at work right now... Thank you.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

silicone is fine for the pan, but for the front cover gasket get one from atkins as they are about $13.

12AllWays

iTrader: (20)

You can run without one but you definitely want to use an o ring for the seal where the oil cooler line goes. I would recommend "The Right Stuff" for gasket making. Very good ****.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

+1 for The Right Stuff, it's superior to anything else I've used.
It's expensive and a little hard to find (although I've seen it at Pep Boys), if you have trouble sourcing it, try a GM dealer (GM reputedly uses it on the assembly line).

mikey1992

I work at Pep Boys and we always carry The Right Stuff black bottle and gray bottle.

PvillKnight7

iTrader: (16)

Doesn't the front cover gasket hold the Teflon o-ring in place around the oil passage?

slitherz90gxl

S4 T2 tranny with a s5 engine. Which flyhweel, clutch, and pressure plate do I use? lol.
And I found a s5 gasket on ebay for 5 bucks from Kevin.

PvillKnight7

iTrader: (16)

S5/S6 turbo flywheel (S6= FD and they're all turbo and they're 9lbs lighter)
S4/S5 turbo clutch and pressure plate

I think all the 2nd gen throw-out bearings are interchangeable.

slitherz90gxl

So the s4 turbo flywheel won't work?
What if I use the s4 turbo e-shaft and counterweights, just with s5 n/a rotors?

PvillKnight7

iTrader: (16)

The e-shaft is balanced independently. You can use any 2nd gen e-shaft. The S5 e-shaft offers better lubrication.

If you have S4 rotors you need the S4 front CW and the S4 flywheel.

You can't use the S4 turbo CW with the S5 rotors.

slitherz90gxl

Okay, so... I've got to find a s5 turbo flywheel and counterweight so I can use my s5 n/a rotors?
I guess I'll probably just buy a lightweight flywheel and cw... Thanks.

Oh, have any of you rebuilt an engien on a table with hole in the middle for the e-shaft?
=)

Edit: Do I neeed the s5 TII front counterweight as well?

PvillKnight7

iTrader: (16)

If you want to use S5 rotors you need S5/S6 counterweights

Like I posted before, the FD flywheel is lighter.

slitherz90gxl

Alight, I'll just use my s5 counterweights. I've got three s5 n/a blocks torn apart and a S4 TII block torn apart. I'm putting together a 4port n/a HUGE (read smooth) streetport. Not for sure how it is going to work out but I've been doing a lot of research, porting warped housings for practice, and reading some more...
I'm just asking the tranny questions because my s5 n/a transmission is close to being dead. (Can't downshift in to second or third unless you rev match exactly; gets stuck in reverse all the time....)

slitherz90gxl

Okay, so I've got all my parts cleaned up and ready.
Only "new" parts I'm having to use are o-rings and I went ahead and bought all new springs.
I'm hoping to do my porting tonight, if anybody has advice on how BIG is too big feel free to give me some input.
This is just going to be an autocross/canyon carver for the summer.

85TIIDEVIL

iTrader: (2)

Are you using a template from somewhere as a base or going w what u know...? Post up pics of the practice housings.

slitherz90gxl

I've been meaning to post pictures of all kinds of things but I've been working, busy with christmas things. If I've got time I'll do it tonight.
As for porting I was considering just going off of pictures and knowledge.. I didn't really see a street port template shaped how I want.
I've read both of the Rotary engine books by Yamaguchi? and I think I've got a pretty good grasp on the port timing for a 4-port.
I'm trying to figure out if I should port and then configure my setup around it or port the engine to fit the setup I'm going to have.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

you need to make sure you don't port into the seal paths, hence template.

-RotorDemon-

I have used Hondabond with great results.

http://www.inlinefour.com/oemhoho.html

slitherz90gxl

So, I'm at work and I was reading up on some more things I can do while I'm waiting on the rest of my parts for the rebuild. I'm planning on using 4 port irons and going with a big streetport...
I've got the TII manifolds that I'm going to use.
I was wondering if it would be worth going ahead and doing some porting(smoothing) on the TII manifolds and getting rid of the thermowax plates on the throttle body?