Finally! Pictures and Status Of My Turbo-NA-Bridgeport
07-19-04, 10:33 AM
#51
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Originally Posted by drago86
That looks like what im doing right now but with a turbo and a hell of a lot cleaner/ organized. One slight addition though, the leading edge of the side seals should be taken into acount when doing a bridge. The corner seals will be supported almost anywhere you put the bridge, but it its to far out the leading edge of the side seal will not be supported and crash into the top of the port. You left tons of meat in that bridge though, and didnt bring the aux out any so this is mainly a warning to newbie porters.
Did you do all porting work with stones and paper? If so that must have taken ages.
Did you do all porting work with stones and paper? If so that must have taken ages.
http://www.nopistons.com/forums/inde...opic=33859&hl=
07-19-04, 02:15 PM
#52
Engine, Not Motor
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Aaron, how much will the project be costing you in total and what type of HP figures do you expect from this?
I know that I have about $1300-$1450 Canadian into the engine.
I was wondering if you know any sites that give some descriptions or what I would need to clean the engine bay and then paint it, a Super White painted engine bay
i would spray most of the engine accessories with VHT flat black to really set the motor off. that and... ur going to hate me but, some red ground wires or something. that would look cool.
) sort of has a "goth" (I hate that word) theme. Deep metallic crimson paint, maroon interior, black side trim and the the contrasting silver wheels. Engine is also nice and dark. The manifolds will be treated the same way as the rotor housings, and most other parts will highlighted in black (including the wiring).
You kept the N/A endplates right? Those are much weaker that the turbo ones (I think). Will they hold up to that much power?
That looks like what im doing right now but with a turbo
and a hell of a lot cleaner/ organized.
One slight addition though, the leading edge of the side seals should be taken into acount when doing a bridge. The corner seals will be supported almost anywhere you put the bridge, but it its to far out the leading edge of the side seal will not be supported and crash into the top of the port. You left tons of meat in that bridge though, and didnt bring the aux out any so this is mainly a warning to newbie porters.
Did you do all porting work with stones and paper? If so that must have taken ages.
07-19-04, 07:03 PM
#53
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"Are you talking about making the transition on the ports smoother into the iron so the sideseal doesn't crash into the walls of the ports like judge ITO says in this?"
Not exactly, i was talking about never dropping the leading side seal off the bridge.
I ment to say that mine isnt turbocharged. Your parts are much much cleaner, im to lazy to clean everything spotless like that.
I found stones would wear down and/or not make much progress at all. I did most of my ports with a dremal w/ flexshaft and a 1/4th inch carbide burr. Maybe the fact that your using much larger diameter bits made the difference. Everything went nice and quick except for the exhaust port diffusers, thoose #$$%^!! toke forever.
Not exactly, i was talking about never dropping the leading side seal off the bridge.
I ment to say that mine isnt turbocharged. Your parts are much much cleaner, im to lazy to clean everything spotless like that.
I found stones would wear down and/or not make much progress at all. I did most of my ports with a dremal w/ flexshaft and a 1/4th inch carbide burr. Maybe the fact that your using much larger diameter bits made the difference. Everything went nice and quick except for the exhaust port diffusers, thoose #$$%^!! toke forever.
07-19-04, 07:11 PM
#54
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O, and just a FYI incase you ever want to make a manifold or are curious, i had a timming wheel on my plates and my aux bridge opens at 45 degrees BTDC and my bridge looks like it goes down alomost exactly as far as yours. I'm VERY interested to see how she runs. Do you have an estimate to first start up?
07-20-04, 09:05 AM
#56
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For some reason everyone is on about that intake.... Here's what I'll do...I will be posting pics of the engine build soon, which include everything but the front cover (waiting for my bearings from Mazda). I'll throw the current pics of the intake in with the engine. In fact, I may just post the pics of the short block without the front cover if I have to wait a week or more for the bearings/spacer (they're back ordered).
LOL. Well, I like CLEAN. I was tired of working on my engine and having my hands come out black. Suffice to say that this engine was clean enough that after building it, I didn't need to wash my hands for dinner...
The secret with the rotors is to not worry about the bearings. Use Zep purple or some other nasty chemical, and then remove any rust that forms (and it will) with Naval jelly.
Basically, my washing process for engine parts is this:
-take off engine, wash in parts cleaner then rinse with warm water
-scrape o-rings grooves with degreaser and modified screwdriver
-do any porting or whatever
-wash in parts cleaner again, then rinse with water and dry
-scrape grooves with carb cleaner, remove ALL carbon and stuff. Paper towel should be perfectly clean after wiping grooves if done right
-back to parts cleaner. Heavy cleaning, use 600 grit sand paper and sanding block on mating surfaces of rotor housings. If cleaning each iron/housing takes less then 25 minutes, it's not clean enough. Now bring up to bathtub, rinse heavily with hot water. Get a BBQ brush and dish soap, and SCRUB. Now rinse with COLD water (helps prevent rusting). Blow out with compresser, making sure it's completely dry.
-soak with brake cleaner several times, let evaporate. Soak with brake cleaner, then dry with compressor
Now ready to paint.
Before it goes into the engine, it is cleaned once again with brake cleaner.
As far as the stones, I never had a problem. They would just EAT the irons. It takes a delicate hand not to make a mistake. The quality of stone makes a huge difference though. Most cheap hardware store stones are crap. The ones I buy are made by Wolfcraft in Germany. Even still, I only use them for the rough porting, then move to a tiny stone (still on the die grinder) to finish up. This small stone came in the porting kit. The final work is then done with the paper rolls.
That's about where it opens...I have been told that I'm missing too much timing to make it effective, but it really does open up much sooner then the stock port...So it won't be as good as a "real" bridge, but should still provide the advantages of a bridge...
As for start up, no idea. Maybe Sept? Might even be next spring...It's all about having the time.
I ment to say that mine isnt turbocharged. Your parts are much much cleaner, im to lazy to clean everything spotless like that.
The secret with the rotors is to not worry about the bearings. Use Zep purple or some other nasty chemical, and then remove any rust that forms (and it will) with Naval jelly.
Basically, my washing process for engine parts is this:
-take off engine, wash in parts cleaner then rinse with warm water
-scrape o-rings grooves with degreaser and modified screwdriver
-do any porting or whatever
-wash in parts cleaner again, then rinse with water and dry
-scrape grooves with carb cleaner, remove ALL carbon and stuff. Paper towel should be perfectly clean after wiping grooves if done right
-back to parts cleaner. Heavy cleaning, use 600 grit sand paper and sanding block on mating surfaces of rotor housings. If cleaning each iron/housing takes less then 25 minutes, it's not clean enough. Now bring up to bathtub, rinse heavily with hot water. Get a BBQ brush and dish soap, and SCRUB. Now rinse with COLD water (helps prevent rusting). Blow out with compresser, making sure it's completely dry.
-soak with brake cleaner several times, let evaporate. Soak with brake cleaner, then dry with compressor
Now ready to paint.
Before it goes into the engine, it is cleaned once again with brake cleaner.
As far as the stones, I never had a problem. They would just EAT the irons. It takes a delicate hand not to make a mistake. The quality of stone makes a huge difference though. Most cheap hardware store stones are crap. The ones I buy are made by Wolfcraft in Germany. Even still, I only use them for the rough porting, then move to a tiny stone (still on the die grinder) to finish up. This small stone came in the porting kit. The final work is then done with the paper rolls.
O, and just a FYI incase you ever want to make a manifold or are curious, i had a timming wheel on my plates and my aux bridge opens at 45 degrees BTDC and my bridge looks like it goes down alomost exactly as far as yours. I'm VERY interested to see how she runs. Do you have an estimate to first start up?
As for start up, no idea. Maybe Sept? Might even be next spring...It's all about having the time.
03-03-05, 01:18 AM
#58
"The whole car (and me as well ) sort of has a "goth" (I hate that word) theme."
Goth haha yeah when i say that word i have to do the quotation marks with my hands haha, its a stupid word stereotype, nayways when are the updates goign to be posted, or are they somewhere else? I must see more, gotta post a few vids of it runign when done too (never got to see the vids of the first setup) anyways awesome work, you've basically given me a shitload of info, and i will hopefully be doing the N/A turbo mod eventually only with the turbo manifolds, if i can fugure out all the BAC and other valve routing etc.
) sort of has a "goth" (I hate that word) theme."Goth haha yeah when i say that word i have to do the quotation marks with my hands haha, its a stupid word stereotype, nayways when are the updates goign to be posted, or are they somewhere else? I must see more, gotta post a few vids of it runign when done too (never got to see the vids of the first setup) anyways awesome work, you've basically given me a shitload of info, and i will hopefully be doing the N/A turbo mod eventually only with the turbo manifolds, if i can fugure out all the BAC and other valve routing etc.
10-16-06, 02:21 PM
#61
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Holy topic resurrection!
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10-17-06, 01:43 PM
#62
FC3C 90, PGT 89.
So Aaron have you finished this project? I'd like to see how that paint has held up under heat. Any more pics you want to show? This is a good thread, you should keep it going!
Matt|ttaM
Matt|ttaM
10-17-06, 01:54 PM
#63
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Is a project ever truly finished?
Here's where I'm at so far:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/runs-pics-vids-my-turbo-na-bridgeport-project-580083/
Here's where I'm at so far:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/runs-pics-vids-my-turbo-na-bridgeport-project-580083/
10-02-07, 08:07 PM
#65
Senior Member
I have seen your screen name every where here and on you tube!
I have a 2nd generation rx7 1988 and im getting a new motor and another 1988 parts car very soon.
Im wondering what kind of performance parts help get horsepower on n/a engines?
also the best exhaust for the car ( for a low pitch tone )
if im not bothering you could you write back
I have a 2nd generation rx7 1988 and im getting a new motor and another 1988 parts car very soon.
Im wondering what kind of performance parts help get horsepower on n/a engines?
also the best exhaust for the car ( for a low pitch tone )
if im not bothering you could you write back
03-03-09, 09:29 PM
#70
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damn... Talk about old thread. It's been a while since I surfed over to 2nd gen sub forum. Rx7club for that matter even. First thing that catches my eye. TIINA thread. Nice!
Aaron, good to see you are still around.
Aaron, good to see you are still around.
03-04-09, 05:07 PM
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cool man thats bad *** bro. i want to do the same with my motor if it isnt any problem i would like to get some info on how you bridgeported the motor and how it worked out?
thanks
thanks
03-05-09, 09:32 AM
#75
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I'm still working on the car, though just loose ends at this point but there will be another update thread in the spring/summer. After that, I think it's done and I can start on my Cosmo.Well, I will volunteer some that might be a bit important: don't port your engine like I did. Mine was done for a very specific purpose and won't work for you.
If you have a 4 port, buy templates for the vendors. If you have a 6 port, use a vendor template as a basis for your bridges.
Here is all the info you will need on my project:
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/projecttina
Happy reading.
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