Are you talking about making the transition on the ports smoother into the iron so the sideseal doesn't crash into the walls of the ports like judge ITO says in this?

http://www.nopistons.com/forums/inde...opic=33859&hl=

 

No idea on either question. I know that I have about $1300-$1450 Canadian into the engine.

Not really...It depends on how good a job you want though. I just cleaned, sanded, primed and painted. I'm sure there are others who would like the engine bay to look as good as the rest of the car who would want to use a high build primer, multi-stage paint and clear. For me though, I just wanted to clean up the engine bay.

The whole car (and me as well ) sort of has a "goth" (I hate that word) theme. Deep metallic crimson paint, maroon interior, black side trim and the the contrasting silver wheels. Engine is also nice and dark. The manifolds will be treated the same way as the rotor housings, and most other parts will highlighted in black (including the wiring).

As you can see in the pictures, all the plates (and housings) in the engine are NA. In fact, this entire block is the NA block. The casting (except the port are) is the same on both NA and turbo irons, so strength is not a problem. However, S4 irons have a weak spot at the lower dowl which tends to crack. This is true for both turbo and NA.

This engine is turbocharged.

Cleaner? The engine, or the work area?


Yep, there's plenty of room on those ports. Also, you may be able to see from the picture that the edges of all the ports were taken down with sandpaper to remove any "lip" formed.

Didn't take long at all. The irons were roughly ported with the stones, then finished off with the paper rolls. The inner surface of the housing was taken down with the stones, and the inner aluminium as well as sleeves were ported with the paper rolls. I have about 2 hours into each port (well, less on the primaries, but then they're messy).

 

"Are you talking about making the transition on the ports smoother into the iron so the sideseal doesn't crash into the walls of the ports like judge ITO says in this?"

Not exactly, i was talking about never dropping the leading side seal off the bridge.

I ment to say that mine isnt turbocharged. Your parts are much much cleaner, im to lazy to clean everything spotless like that.

I found stones would wear down and/or not make much progress at all. I did most of my ports with a dremal w/ flexshaft and a 1/4th inch carbide burr. Maybe the fact that your using much larger diameter bits made the difference. Everything went nice and quick except for the exhaust port diffusers, thoose #$$%^!! toke forever.

 

O, and just a FYI incase you ever want to make a manifold or are curious, i had a timming wheel on my plates and my aux bridge opens at 45 degrees BTDC and my bridge looks like it goes down alomost exactly as far as yours. I'm VERY interested to see how she runs. Do you have an estimate to first start up?

 

Awesome, awesome job man! But really, and i do mean seriously, we need pics of that intake!!

 

For some reason everyone is on about that intake.... Here's what I'll do...I will be posting pics of the engine build soon, which include everything but the front cover (waiting for my bearings from Mazda). I'll throw the current pics of the intake in with the engine. In fact, I may just post the pics of the short block without the front cover if I have to wait a week or more for the bearings/spacer (they're back ordered).

LOL. Well, I like CLEAN. I was tired of working on my engine and having my hands come out black. Suffice to say that this engine was clean enough that after building it, I didn't need to wash my hands for dinner...

The secret with the rotors is to not worry about the bearings. Use Zep purple or some other nasty chemical, and then remove any rust that forms (and it will) with Naval jelly.

Basically, my washing process for engine parts is this:

-take off engine, wash in parts cleaner then rinse with warm water
-scrape o-rings grooves with degreaser and modified screwdriver
-do any porting or whatever
-wash in parts cleaner again, then rinse with water and dry
-scrape grooves with carb cleaner, remove ALL carbon and stuff. Paper towel should be perfectly clean after wiping grooves if done right
-back to parts cleaner. Heavy cleaning, use 600 grit sand paper and sanding block on mating surfaces of rotor housings. If cleaning each iron/housing takes less then 25 minutes, it's not clean enough. Now bring up to bathtub, rinse heavily with hot water. Get a BBQ brush and dish soap, and SCRUB. Now rinse with COLD water (helps prevent rusting). Blow out with compresser, making sure it's completely dry.
-soak with brake cleaner several times, let evaporate. Soak with brake cleaner, then dry with compressor

Now ready to paint.

Before it goes into the engine, it is cleaned once again with brake cleaner.

As far as the stones, I never had a problem. They would just EAT the irons. It takes a delicate hand not to make a mistake. The quality of stone makes a huge difference though. Most cheap hardware store stones are crap. The ones I buy are made by Wolfcraft in Germany. Even still, I only use them for the rough porting, then move to a tiny stone (still on the die grinder) to finish up. This small stone came in the porting kit. The final work is then done with the paper rolls.

That's about where it opens...I have been told that I'm missing too much timing to make it effective, but it really does open up much sooner then the stock port...So it won't be as good as a "real" bridge, but should still provide the advantages of a bridge...

As for start up, no idea. Maybe Sept? Might even be next spring...It's all about having the time.

 

Nice work. I love seeing car's guts that are 1000 hours from completion.

 

"The whole car (and me as well ) sort of has a "goth" (I hate that word) theme."

Goth haha yeah when i say that word i have to do the quotation marks with my hands haha, its a stupid word stereotype, nayways when are the updates goign to be posted, or are they somewhere else? I must see more, gotta post a few vids of it runign when done too (never got to see the vids of the first setup) anyways awesome work, you've basically given me a shitload of info, and i will hopefully be doing the N/A turbo mod eventually only with the turbo manifolds, if i can fugure out all the BAC and other valve routing etc.

 

^^Yea^^^

 

sorry to bring back the dead but it has good pics...
and ill be needing a referance soon!
not for the bridge port portion though...

 

Holy topic resurrection!

For the record, you can just subscribe to a topic without replying to it. Just go to the "Thread Tools" menu and select "Subscribe To This Thread". It then shows up in your thread subscriptions area (in your control panel).

 

So Aaron have you finished this project? I'd like to see how that paint has held up under heat. Any more pics you want to show? This is a good thread, you should keep it going!

Matt|ttaM

 

Is a project ever truly finished?

Here's where I'm at so far:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/runs-pics-vids-my-turbo-na-bridgeport-project-580083/

 

Wow, tons of awesome work you are doing there.

 

I have seen your screen name every where here and on you tube!

I have a 2nd generation rx7 1988 and im getting a new motor and another 1988 parts car very soon.

Im wondering what kind of performance parts help get horsepower on n/a engines?

also the best exhaust for the car ( for a low pitch tone )

if im not bothering you could you write back

 

any one can answer

 

There's a "How to make a beefy (powerful) NA" thread in the archives - you have tons of homework to do

 

hell ya man whats what i want to do with my 13b...so if you dont mind would wou mind givin me info and appinoins and help thriugh it?

 

Holy 5 year thread resurrection!

What more info do you need then is already in the thread?

 

damn... Talk about old thread. It's been a while since I surfed over to 2nd gen sub forum. Rx7club for that matter even. First thing that catches my eye. TIINA thread. Nice!

Aaron, good to see you are still around.

 

It proves that some people use the search. If he made a new post, everyone would have been all over him to have searched.

 

bingo

 

cool man thats bad *** bro. i want to do the same with my motor if it isnt any problem i would like to get some info on how you bridgeported the motor and how it worked out?
thanks

 

Keep it coming!

 

Aaron will be around for a long time. Hell, I'm marked with the rotary forever now. I'm still working on the car, though just loose ends at this point but there will be another update thread in the spring/summer. After that, I think it's done and I can start on my Cosmo.

True enough...

OK. What information do you need that already is not in this thread?

Well, I will volunteer some that might be a bit important: don't port your engine like I did. Mine was done for a very specific purpose and won't work for you.

If you have a 4 port, buy templates for the vendors. If you have a 6 port, use a vendor template as a basis for your bridges.

Here is all the info you will need on my project:
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/projecttina

Happy reading.