JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

So after almost a year of not driving my car and several months of knowing I had a bad compression on the front rotor, the rebuild has started. Its my first rebuild of any kind. Today was the first time I pulled an engine. First day I got to check out my turbo off the engine. I'm breaking into new territory so bare with me if I have noob questions.

Here's the compression tests from a few months ago
Front
[IMG]<object style="height: 344px; width: 425px"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/5NX62VjONf4"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/5NX62VjONf4" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" width="425" height="344"></object>[/IMG]

Rear
[IMG]<object style="height: 344px; width: 425px"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/5NX62VjONf4"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/5NX62VjONf4" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" width="425" height="344"></object>[/IMG]

Pulled the engine today and have it stripped down to the keg. I took pics till the camera battery died. Then took some more pics on my cellphone. Garage lighting wasn't good enough for the craptastic cell camera.


I labeled what I was taking apart and unplugging. I tagged and bagged most all of the nuts, bolts and fasteners to help when reassembling and installing. Tomorrow I'm returning the engine hoist I borrowed and picking up a breaker bar and 2 1/8 socket for the flywheel nut.

hiroichi1515

iTrader: (17)

use an impact, don't waste time with the breaker bar. Its gonna be rough lol

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

Don't own one

arghx

iTrader: (3)

^ Have fun with the front bolt then.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

Yeah was toying with it today. I can tell it's gonna be fun. IIRC from the Atkins rebuild dvd that bolt has locktite on it???

I'm hoping I can use a breaker bar on both the front and flywheel nut at the same time. I've got a 1/2in. socket breakerbar and 17mm socket for the front. Gonna borrow a friends 3/4in socket breakerbar and 2 1/8in socket. Hoping I can have a helper hold the flywheel from spinning so i can break the front free.

If it gives me too much trouble I can put the keg in the back of the van and take it to a shop to have them break the bolts free.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

LOL just realized I posted both front rotor tests....damn my ADD..or the hum of the a/c kicking on which distracted me from noticing that I copied the same vid twice??

[IMG]<object style="height: 344px; width: 425px"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/5GYypgfEVU4"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/5GYypgfEVU4" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" width="425" height="344"></object>[/IMG]

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

Correction front bolt is 19mm...i had a mental moment.

At the advice of many I didn't even attempt breaking the front or flywheel nuts. I take my car to a local shop that lets me bring my own fluids and I pay them to use their car lift to change oil and such. I brought them the socket and they popped them for me...no charge.

This is my first turbo I've owned so I'm not sure how much play is alright. I took it to a local turbo and fuel injector shop to have them do a visual inspection. They say the thrust play is pretty bad and wanted me to leave it with them to tear into. I brought it back home.

thejallenator

iTrader: (14)

ok rear nut. we did this with the motor on the ground. might be easier with a engine stand. you'll need the said breaker bar and socket. also 2 long pipes. we had 2 5' chunks laying around. and also a strong bar to use to hold the flywheel. we used a torsion bar for this.have a friend hold the bar one 2 or the bolts and stick your socket on the nut and you and the friend press down on the cheater bars to break it loose. this works in reverse too. also a chunk of chain going from the flywheel to a bellhousing bolt helps a bit too

amd the front nut you'll need a pipe wrench and the 2 pieces of pipe again. use the pipe wrench to hold the hub while you break the bolt loose, shouldnt be as hard as the flywheel nut, but its on there tight, like 100ft/lb

as far as play in the turbo it should be little to none front and back(intake to exhaust) and little to none frm side to side

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

^ I rigged up a test to try and get some numbers on the turbo play. I took cardboard and cut holes for the exhaust side studs. I layed it flat over the exhaust end then took a fine pitch bolt and pushed it thru a hole in the center as best lined up as I could over the shaft end. Using the threads on the bolt I could get a good visual reference on how much thrust play there was. I tried marking with a fine tip marker but there was little enough play that I couldn't get a good mark on both extremes of thrust play.

Visual reference using the threads was about 1mm of thrust play. A website I was reading sited .001 to .003 inches as acceptable end play/thrust. That converted to .025 to .076 mm. My makeshift measurement wasn't very accurate to say the least.

The same site suggested using a a dial indicator but that was more for free play than end play. I was considering getting one for my rebuild anyway...possibly renting one if that sort of thing is available.

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

if you have any in/out play the turbo probably needs to be rebuilt. a bit of side to side play is acceptable, as long as it isn't close to contacting the housing.

Gurew

iTrader: (4)

i quickly glanced over the thread and you should get these...

http://cgi.ebay.com/Universal-Magnet...2#ht_724wt_851

and

http://cgi.ebay.com/Compac-Dial-Indi...ht_2306wt_1076

dont skimp and buy a cheap indicator...compac is TOP QUALITY SWISS MADE!!!!!!!! will last forever and is super accurate


i have a dial indicator and dial test indicator in both inch and metric...same brand so 4 total and i spent $200 each!!! so thats a hella good deal on that one


buy those 2, get them in, and ill explain over the phone how to use them

Gurew

iTrader: (4)

btw that magnetic base is inexpensive..but i own the same one..works ******* awesome

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

I waited too long to get things started today and it's near 100 degrees out. I'm content staying inside and watch world cup. I have to be at work in a few hours.

The extent of work I'm doing today is getting the keg out of the van!!!

On monday I'm gonna make some calls, see if I can rent a dial indicator and a micrometer to measure my housings. This being my frist rebuild I may not enjoy the work and may never come back to do a rebuild again...so I'm trying to hold off on buying any tools that might be a one time use.

Like I said in PMs, i was at Sears pricing dial indicators and it's rapage there...price is ridiculus. I tried pulling up online what they had in-store and couldn't find it.

Gurew

iTrader: (4)

take my word and go buy those tools i listed...when you are done, if you dont want them ill buy them back from you now thats kind of hard to beat....

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

Lol you are too kind sir, but I gotta make sure I don't nickle and dime myself. I found my new clutch I bought unseen 3 years ago while my swap was being done is questioably worn. I'll post pics later tonight. That added with questionable turbo play and I haven't even gotten the engine open.

What I forgot to post yesterday about tools is that I'm also seeing if friends have any that I can borrow.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

Got the engine torn down today and it looks like I detonated and spun the broken off corner of the apex seal. The front housing is scarred

Front apex seal


Front housing has lots of scars couple small ones on the spark plug hole and then a gauge

This might be a better pic of the same thing


At the exhaust port: 4 above and around it and one long one below it


Then another gouge where the housing meets the middle iron

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

It doesn't look like there's any damage to the rotor I marked an X where the broken seal was

Here is where the broken apex seal was and I looked over the whole rotor and couldn't find anything

And another

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

I definitely need opinions and advice on the front iron and all the irons in general. At first I thought the front iron had gotten scared by a side seal. I can feel a blemish on the spark plug side near the edge where it meets the housing and runs a good distance along that edge. Then there is another similar but smaller blemish on the opposite side.

It runs sorta parallel to the seal groove.


I thought it was damage but as I was cleaning the other irons I noticed more of them on the other irons in almost the identical place and following the same pattern. They are all near where the iron and housing meet.

Then also on the same iron there are a pair of discolorations near the top. I had a hard time getting pics of it, the blurry one showed them the best

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

I've been told once a clutch starts fraying like this it's close to toast?

Gurew

iTrader: (4)

that clutch is toast...time for a new one

for the housing...take a rag soaked in acetone and wipe it down..see if those spots come off

and tomorrow im moving all the engine parts to the new shop, ill inspect a few and see what i have

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

Clutch was supposedly new 3 years ago....teaches me who to trust and who to punch in the face

Gurew

iTrader: (4)

well it doesnt look like a high end clutch...and id say new 3 years ago...im sure you got your miles out of it....new 3 years ago doesnt leave you with a new clutch now lol

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

Yeah its just an exedy oe replacement, but the guy who sold it to me sold me some other parts in a package that have also turned out to be questionable....so things are little deeper than the clutch alone

But you live and learn

Gurew

iTrader: (4)

well **** happens i guess...

1) i have a clutch for sale
2) i can sell you a rebuilt kit
3) what else you looking to buy?

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

I'm gonna need a front housing: S5 turbo

But I'm gonna take a few days and do some book-learning. I need to find out about lapping irons and if the areas on my irons are ok and/or normal. I need to make some calls and find out if i'm borrowing, renting or buying dial indicator and micrometer. Gotta clean my parts and generally organize things, etc etc

Is the clutch and rebuild kit in your F/S thread?