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a few quick front hub questions

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Old 02-24-11, 07:51 PM
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a few quick front hub questions

ok so i am pulling front hubs off of a car on sunday so I need to know

1. what size is the axle nut?
2. will I need a puller or anything?
3. the car has wheel locks on it so, If I need to drill out a stud, can I just press the drilled stud out, or would I need to replace the hub?

thanks in advance
Old 02-24-11, 08:04 PM
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1. 15/16" socket or 24mm socket.
2. No. But if your pulling out the hubs, make sure you don't get dirt inside or new bearings will be needed. When re-installing, you will need a pull scale to properly set the pre-load. If you fail to set the pre-load properly, you will ruin your bearings. If you don't have a pull scale: torque to 21 lb-ft, spin hub, 21lb-ft, spin hub, 21 lb-ft, back off the nut, torque to 8 lb ft. No torque wrench? Forget about removing the hubs. If your removing the hubs, you might as well repack the grease and buy new wheel seals for them.
3. Why would you drill out a stud? If you need to replace the stud, it pops out, new one pops in.
Old 02-24-11, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Donovan N.
3. the car has wheel locks on it so, If I need to drill out a stud, can I just press the drilled stud out, or would I need to replace the hub?
Use the special sockets to pull wheel locks off. You pound them on the outside of the nut, and impact it off. Works super, will save you a lot of hassle. try going to sears or maybe a parts store.
Old 02-24-11, 09:29 PM
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cuz i'm a nice guy...

like these.


http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

don't buy the overpriced strap-on one though/
Old 02-25-11, 12:51 AM
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I have access to a wheel lock master set at the garage I work at, but I don't know if they will let me take tools out of the shop, but it sounds like, worst case scenario, if I need to drill out a stud I can hammer out the bad stud and put a new one in, I asked this because I know working with a lot of Front wheel drive hubs you can't just press in a new stud (stupid I know) but I wasn't sure if these were the same way.
Old 02-25-11, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by jjcobm
1. 15/16" socket or 24mm socket.
2. No. But if your pulling out the hubs, make sure you don't get dirt inside or new bearings will be needed. When re-installing, you will need a pull scale to properly set the pre-load. If you fail to set the pre-load properly, you will ruin your bearings. If you don't have a pull scale: torque to 21 lb-ft, spin hub, 21lb-ft, spin hub, 21 lb-ft, back off the nut, torque to 8 lb ft. No torque wrench? Forget about removing the hubs. If your removing the hubs, you might as well repack the grease and buy new wheel seals for them.
3. Why would you drill out a stud? If you need to replace the stud, it pops out, new one pops in.

#2 i just changed my wheels bearings last month and didnt torque my wheel bearing nut. luckily my wheels didnt fall off yet. thanks for the instructions

isnt 8 pounds to much tho? when i removed my old bearings the nut didnt seem like it was on that tight. it actually came off quiet easily.
Old 02-25-11, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by NatAsRex7
#2 i just changed my wheels bearings last month and didnt torque my wheel bearing nut. luckily my wheels didnt fall off yet. thanks for the instructions

isnt 8 pounds to much tho? when i removed my old bearings the nut didnt seem like it was on that tight. it actually came off quiet easily.
Through trial and error and a pull scale, 6 to 8lb-ft is just right. The bearings need re-adjustment every so often, which is why your nut was probably loose. The proper method is to use a pull scale, it will always give you the acurate amout you need to tighten, but on a fresh pair of bearings 8 lb ft was good (since they "break in" after a few miles and loosen up). It actually isn't much to be honest, you will have to most likely use an pound-in torque wrench to get into this range. For used bearings, I would go around 6 lb-ft since they are already "broken in".
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