Now that I have this car Im starting to wounder more and more....

Its the 88 SE.
I found the HP/TQ ratings. But Im wondering the following.

Would a different intake help? Is replacing the stock header/exhaust going to yeild a difference?

How does the alarm system work, mine came with it, but I have no clue about it?? Does it come with key controlls (mine had none). Should I disable it?

How are the stock brakes, are they worth upgrading.

I want to run a moderate stereo system in the car, (200w deck, 400w amp, 2 10inch subs), is the stock alternator large enough?
Would a Yellow top optima be a good choice for a replacment battery??

 

Yes. Do a search for the thread "how to make a beefy NA". It's also in the Archives.

I have never had an RX-7 with an alarm, and never paid attention to those that do. But I believe you set the alarm by locking the drivers door from the inside, then closing the door while holding the handle up. Could be wrong though.

No. Not unless the car is primarily a track car. Change the fluid, get a good set of pads (Hawk Metal Masters are a popular choice), and make sure they're working properly.

If that is a "real" 600W (not cheap crap), then you will need an alternator upgrade. The FD (3rd gen) alternator is popular. Hell, I'd do the alternator anyway.

Get the Red Top unless you specifically need the deep cycle ability of the YT.

 

Would a different intake help? Is replacing the stock header/exhaust going to yeild a difference?

Intake and exaust is the best thing you can do for a N/A other than a porting job. The header that comes stock on these cars are just absolute ****. Go with the racing beat "streetable" header, and since you have a N/A... I'd go with 2.5" piping. Your 5/6th port intake system are dependant on back pressure from the exaust. Running without a cat migh make your ports not work correctly. I'm not sure on this, but having 2.5" piping would help. If you want to do an exaust upgrade, do the full thing. I wish I would have instead of just doing the cat-back, but I have emmissions

How does the alarm system work, mine came with it, but I have no clue about it?? Does it come with key controlls (mine had none). Should I disable it?

From my owner's manual, (S5 GTU) all doors need to be locked, and when you are closing the driver's door... hold the handle open and close the door, then release the handle. My alarm does not work... so I wouldn't know FOR SURE.

How are the stock brakes, are they worth upgrading. The SE came with the 2 piston brakes I think.. so they're "OK". Your best bet for a brake upgrade would be a set of decent pads. If you want to go a step ahead of that, go with a set of Turbo II 4 piston brakes. The turbo II's brakes are actually very good, and most people under-rate them.

I want to run a moderate stereo system in the car, (200w deck, 400w amp, 2 10inch subs), is the stock alternator large enough?

I have a 100W head unit, with a 400W 4 channel jenson amp. I don't have subs yet. When I turn my stereo on, with the air blowing, the headlights dim a marginal amount, and I have a S5 alternator (which makes 85 amps?) IMO, I would do a "FD Alternator Swap." I will be doing one soon. This simply is a plug and play job. PM silverrotor (might not have two Rs) he has a kit availble for a great price, and includes everything you need.

Would a Yellow top optima be a good choice for a replacment battery??

If its something you can afford, absolutely. Go for it



Do a FULL tune up, replace all filters (oil, air (go with a K/N cone filter here) and fuel). Oil change, coolant flush, and tranny fluid. Good recomendation for tranny fluid is red-line. Check your plugs... if they are fouled, get a new set of NGKs.

Last but not least, have fun

Later,
Jon

 

1. Some people swap to the s5 intake for certain reasons.

2. There is no stock header, but adding one and upgrading exhaust will be the single largest power upgrade you can do. Can't go wrong with racing beat www.racingbeat.com

3. The alarm just goes off when a window is broken and the doors are locked, I think. No key unit.

4. Stock brakes aren't the greatest, but they work fine. Do some other upgrades first.

5. Stock alternator should be fine, but a lot of people upgrade to a FD alternator. It is super powerful, but since you have an s4, you would need a new harness.

6. Yellow top is a good battery choice.

 

Haha, all within 2 minutes.

 

Aaron is correct for the alarm.

To set the factory alarm you must lock passenger door and lock drivers door from inside the car. Then close the door while lifting the handle so it stays locked. The alarm will take 10 seconds or so to fully arm. You know its armed cause when you push the lock down it will make a beep noise, then after you close the door about 10 seconds later it makes another beep noise that you can hear from quite a distance actually. Then the Security light will flash once very 5 seconds or so.

later
-Justin

 

Very cool, just want I need to know.

I think the full tune up is in order first.
Then replacing the intake.
Exhaust /header comes next.
New brake pads soon.
Full stereo comes last.

Other then that the car is great!

Ok now Im going to be flamed. How do I check the oil.... ahahahha, never owned a rotary before.

 

Funny that people recommend the YT. The YT is a DEEP CYCLE battery. I have covered all this before, so you can do a search under my name and "battery". There are advantages and disadvantages to the YT when used in a car...For most people, there is NO REASON to go to the YT when the RT is cheaper and lighter, designed to be used as a starting battery. The YT, being a deep cycle battery, has a completely different charge curve. It will live fine in your car, but will show shorter life due to the constant under-charging.

 

Oh, and http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/newowner.htm

 

Regarding the alarm, it doesn't have a motion detector or anything that senses broken glass. It will only go off if a door lock, hatch lock, or hood is forced open or if the doors or hatch are opened from the inside without the key.

To arm it, you just have to lock everything (doors, hatch, and shut hood) and lock the last open item (door, hatch or hood) without using the key. If the hood is open, it is possible to arm the system by just dropping it shut (assuming the hatch and both doors are already locked shut).

To disarm, you must turn the key in either door or hatch lock. The ignition is supposed to be disabled.

If you want to see if yours works, lock everything (hold handle up when closing the door as mentioned above) and leave a window down. After 20 seconds or so, reach in and unlock the door from the inside. Lights will pop up and flash and horn will sound if everything is working.

 

I only use yellow tops in vehicals that I know could be draining the battery completly with their audio systems, and then trickle charged back up. I know they are deep cycle, but your right, the constant undercharging would shortain the life span. Red top it is for me. (Have a yellow laying around...)

 

If you have changed oil on a piston car... its no different. If you've ever changed oil in a V8 with little hood clearance (aka mustang) then you'll LOVE how easy the oil filter is to get to

The filter is accessable from the top, on the drivers side (you won't miss it) and just jack up the car, and you'll be able to find it (oil drain plug).

 

Oh I know, I see the filter and drain plug, but is there no dip stick.

Im assuming the black caped tube is for oil???

I own a 67- stang, a 302 84 Tbird (dead now) and a 97 F150, I know how to change oil in the worst of cases

 

why would you upgrade the intake 1st bring more air in..... but whats the sence when your car breathes through a straw with the stock exhaust

 

Because the stock one is plugged beyond believe with dead bugs?? Its sucking through a coffee sturrer and putting out through a garden hose??


BTW- but first through last on my list, thats things to do within a few days...

 

oh ok i never really thought about that with all the stuff that could be in there but in my opinion we are both right

 

Its a small lil focker.

N/As hold something like 4.8 quarts?? Something like that. You should burn about 1 quart of oil every 1K miles or so. GOOD idea to check your oil level atleast every other fuel stop..

 

Ok, figured that out.
Getting the drive shaft tommorow.