TwEaK

iTrader: (6)

hey guys i thought id go threw a list of things see what you guys can do to help me out ive already spent about $1000 in little things to get it to idle and run half decent but wondering what the hell the other problems are

First

Car doesnt turn off after you take the ignition out yes i heard about the alt im gonna try it prolly tmw about taking the plug out..

Second

which is my most important car is giving me spuddering and falling on its face here is what ive done car has been sitting for 6 months so.. here is what ive done

Compression check (it can idle at 500 rpm! when it wants)
oil change
fuel filter change
drained old gas and replaced it with fresh gas
replaced old secondarys that had rust inside the screen with good ones (yes i forgot to check the primarys)
full exhaust
checked fuel pressure (solid 45pounds)

heres the symptons after car has kinda warmed up when i floor it around 3000 rpm it falls on its face spudders to keep it going i can barely touch the gas when the symptons start if i try to give any kind of boost starts taking a **** let me know what you guys think?

P.S really need this car running perfect by the 25th of march signed up and payed for tickets to go to the next meet cost me $40 dont want to throw that away =/
Thanks
TwEaK

TwEaK

iTrader: (6)

bump need some opinions pls!
TwEaK

myfc3s

iTrader: (2)

See if your plug wires are shot. Or get some nw plugs. Also check your timing.

WonkoTheSane

iTrader: (2)

Unless I missed it, TwEaK, I didn't see anywhere on your list of fuel fixes where you sent the injectors out to be properly cleaned? It sounds like dirty injectors to me... I mean, the secondaries had rust in them, and replacing them is only going to help you above 3800.... Well, not even then, cause it relies on the primaries then, too..

TwEaK

iTrader: (6)

no your right wonko i havent touched the primarys or the secondarys to get them properly cleaned.. but heres the case only happens when the car is warming up if the car is cold runs great once i start boosting it and punching it is when the hesitations n **** kick in any ideas?
Thanks
TwEaK

TwEaK

iTrader: (6)

please guys any ideas?
TwEaK

adrock3217

Timing, clean injectors, new plug wires, new spark plugs..

What were the results of the comp. test?

TwEaK

iTrader: (6)

timing is on injectors are fine because it only does this after the car has warmed up in the mornings when the car is cold i can redline and drive it hard with no problems as soon as i keep that going for about 5 min the problem comes back rough idles/ wont pass 1500 rpm in neutral or in gear

and already have new wires and plugs
TwEaK

WonkoTheSane

iTrader: (2)

One thing that isn't exactly common knowledge is that your cold engine is injecting up to nearly double the amount fuel that it will when your engine is warm. You may not be having trouble when it's cold because your ECU is telling your injectors to stay on twice as long as when your engine heats up. You're still probably running lean/poorly when cold, but you have enough fuel in there to cover it up.

The only way I found this out is by playing with a standalone.. And figuring out why my car wouldn't start with "the proper amount (when warm)" of fuel...

Dcrasta

Test your sensors. Behavior like this can be caused by bad engine temp/coolant temp sensor . Too much fuel will cause almost the same issues of not enuf. Im leaning to bad CTS sensor.

TwEaK

iTrader: (6)

wtf is a CTS sensor???? was thinking could it be the boost sensor? how do i test my sensors with a volt meter?? and can someone tell me what kind of volts im supposed to be seeing in the sensors and what sensors to check??
Thanks
TwEaK

turbine

iTrader: (1)

here is a TSB
here are the specs

If a customer complains of a rough idle, check the water temperature switch and related wiring. The water temperature switch wiring could be damaged and may not be detected while checking voltages with the engine off.

Should you encounter the above condition, refer to the following procedures.

CHECKING PROCEDURE

1. Connect the engine signal monitor to the control unit. Refer to the 1987/1988 RX-7 Workshop Manual, page 4A-30 or 4B-31.

2. Warm up the engine to normal temperature.

3. Monitor voltage at terminal 1H for correct voltage under the following conditions:

- engine off, key on
- engine idling
- engine acceleration and deceleration in neutral

NOTE:
The voltage should be below 1.5V with warm engine.

4. If any voltage fluctuation is noted, inspect the water temperature switch wiring especially near the radiator where the harness is tie-wrapped to the oil cooler lines.

5. If open or damaged wire is found, repair as needed.

TwEaK

iTrader: (6)

i really dont understand what you just said but ok any other ideas?
Thanks
TwEaK

Dcrasta

CTS = Coolant Temperature Sensor / (As listed in the FAQ) also refered as the Water temp switch (I think). it provides the ECU with 'warm engine' notification so the fuel can be adjusted. Malfunctioning CTS/WTS makes the car stay in a cold start condition, dumping too much fuel and causing hesitation and drivability problems (does your car flood on warm starts?)

TwEaK

iTrader: (6)

no car does not flood on warm starts actually starts right up and holds idle and how do i check my CTS sensor i know where it is but just have no idea how to check it?
TweaK

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

turbine showed you how to do it in an above post. he posted the tsb page.

boost_its_what_for_dinner

well i thought that was my problem to (bad cts) but i unplugged it and it ran the same and now heres question ... will unplugging it do anything or do u have to replace it period?

but my 87 t2 does the same thing but when cold it does cut out /go way lean as bad as it does when warm, but my does it under light-medium load light gradual incline in road or give it to much gas like say more than ( on a boost gauge) 10-15 in. hg. (vacuum, boost doesnt happen at all) and when my car is warm and i shut it off and restart i have to hold the pedal to floor to get it start up otherwise it just cranks like not getting fuel. also i dont mean to take over this thread but can the fuel pump power assembly ( all the parts u have to rewire when rewiring the fuel pump) go bad or not change voltage to kick up fuel pressure when under load/boost if so then i need to try that, ill stop there for now

87 t2
mods
3inch dp full exhuast
greddy profec b type s boost controller
boost gauge and a/f gauge narrowband but i have hooked a wideband and drove around and it goes way lean under loads like af ratios reaching 16.5s and higher
cone filter
block off plates all but egr* and cold start assist
new secondaries but not rewired and not checked but when i replaced them fuel was getting to them
redone vacuum lines on uim and rats nest
redone grounds all but the ecu grounds and added extra power wire from alt. to battery
new boost sensor
new afm
new o2 sensor
new tps
walboro 255 plh
fcd
wastegate is not ported?? need to do that ..
front mount intercooler and all piping is been check for air leak none
can it be a bad ecu i havent tried that yet?
fuel filter change also but can it be backwards and resisting high flow a pic of proper install would be sweet
newer plugs but not new wires

TwEaK

iTrader: (6)

well just to give an update because this thread is like SUPER OLD i completely forgot about but neways i found out when i dropped my gastank i had about 1/4 of the tank fill with rust i had to clean it out and make shure it was spotless but thats what was happening rust was getting stuck in the screen of the fuel pump
TweaK

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

glad you got that all sorted out!!