working on my 6port turbo setup, need some help this might be an ongoing thread as i come up with new problems every day hahah. im fairly newbish but ive been reading about this for a year now and i couldnt wait any longer!

basics = s4 GXL with s4 TII parts (manifolds/tb/turbo/etc)


1) im replacing my stock fuel pump with an FD pump.. do i have to drop the gas tank?

2) i have a 3in downpipe and muffler, but before i get piping ran in between i was wondering about noise. is 3in straight back from the turbo to muffler really loud? i had an RB header and true duals (no cats or presilencers or anything) back to 2 n1's which sounded good, but it was really loud, i dont want it to be like that anymore. does the turbo quiet it down at all?

3) im using a TII parts (front cover=oil feed i believe/water pump=water feed/return?) for my turbo coolant/oiling. but where do the other two lines go (and which is which out of them??)

4) the ECU switch. I got a TII ecu, i cant find the wiring maps to see if i need to switch any pins in my NA harness-plugs to match the tII ecu... do i?

5)is removing the EGR valve important? in a writeup i read to take it off, but for what? will it hurt to leave it there? (smog/emissions is not a factor for me)

6) removing emissions stuff? i dont even know where to start with that, but as i just said smog/emissions is not a factor for me so what all can i remove that hinders performance? or isnt necessary/wont hurt anything if i remove it.

7) my wastegate actuator seems like it wants to get stuck (while testing it with my hand) i thought i read that these get stuck and cause motors to blow? will a replacement have the same fate/can i put a different wastegate on without trouble?

thats it for today hahah... thanks

 

Grrr... lost my reply, gotta retype.

1.) No. Under your carpet in the hatch is a "trap door" for accessing the fuel pump.

2.) Spend the $ to get a quality exhaust. I had a 3in open exhaust on a turbo motor... is LOUD. Not cool. I personally sprang for the RB Turboback exhaust and found it well worth the price.

 

1) okay that saves a lot of trouble.

2) know of any good resonators or presilencers that are cheap/3inch/quiet things down a lot?

 

I don't remember if they are 3in, but some forum members have had luck using Borla mufflers before the Y-pipe to quiet things down.

The thing is, with N1-style "mufflers" there really isn't anything to keep things quiet.

 

I have a Motoria exhaust 3 inch from ebay. It is a loud exhaust. I received a performance muffler from Summit racing that fits nicely in the section following the race cat. It's a round tube style in stainless steel that matches the rest of the exhaust. I have it being welded in today and I expect a nice improvement on sound. The exhaust was $300 and the extra performance muffler was $100. For the price it should work pretty well.

 

3) The oil drain line goes to the TII front cover. The oil feed line comes from the TII front iron. I don't think there is a provision for it on the na iron. If you have an aftermarket oil filter pedestal, that could be your oil feed line

On the water lines, the feed comes from the TII LIM and the return is the TII water pump housing. You could do one of two things:

Option 1:

Eliminate the thermo wax or run the water line from it (source at rear iron) to the turbo, and then the return to the back of the water pump housing (next to the water thermo sensor).

Option 2:

Drill a hole in the freeze plug in your rear rotor housing that lines up with the rear hole of the TII LIM. Install the TII LIM with the ORINGS and GASKET and us the original coolant feed line. Change over to the TII water pump housing and use the original coolant return line.


5) I removed the EGR valve and didn't notice any negative impact on the driving.

6) Removing the emissions definately make things much easier, and eliminates quite a few vacuum hoses. I got rid of everything but the PCV and charcoal canister. This eliminates the need for a catch can, and having the charcoal canister properly hooked up keeps it from smelling like fuel when it is parked

And if you want to maintain the twin scroll, you will need to keep that solenoid.

7) When I put my rebuild in, I also put on a newer turbo that wasn't leaking oil and such. It's wastegate actuator was sticky.

The fix was easy:

Remove the clip from the actuator rod on the wastegate flapper arm. Wire brush the pin to remove all the rust, and use a rolled up piece of sandpaper to do the hole in the actuator rod. Once it is clean, apply a little high temp grease (synthetic caliper grease works well) and put the rod and clip back on.

Hope this helps!
Vince

 

4) download FSM and look yourself

 

thanks for the help....

ill keep looking for a good way to get an oil feed line (any other suggestions are welcome)

i do have the tII water pump housing so that is gonna be my return, and ill have to research that freeze plug to drill in to , cause i havent heard of it or seen it really before, but it sounds like itll work.

looks like ill get rid of that EGR since its 1 less thing to go wrong.
same with the emissions and such...

and the flapper arm on the wastegate (and the little rod on the flapper arm) are fine, its the long shaft on the actuator, that kind of flex's from side to side (rather than going in straight) and because it moves to the side it just gets stuck.

thanks for the help... anyone else got some good advice for me? hahaha