FD brakes on FC?
04-18-08, 12:46 AM
#26
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If you want more feel, a brake master cylinder brace makes a world of difference. I posted up a how to a while back if you're interested. It's dirt cheap and easy to make.
04-18-08, 03:06 PM
#28
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Basically yes, none of them use drilled rotors. Go to any given race weekend and >99% of the brake rotors you'll see are plain rotors with a few slotted thrown in the mix, almost no-one will be using drilled, unless maybe that's their only option or something like that.
It is a well known, proven fact that drilled rotors are much, MUCH more likely to crack when used hard. Yes all rotors crack, but drilled crack WAY sooner. I've got an SAE paper where they tested drilled vs plain rotors and found that in some cases they helped a little (and this was only when the pads were overheating, where better pads should have been used anyway), and in others they were worse. That's combined with much higher replacement costs and increased pad wear.
They are purely for style. If track use is in the cards, get plain rotors.
It is a well known, proven fact that drilled rotors are much, MUCH more likely to crack when used hard. Yes all rotors crack, but drilled crack WAY sooner. I've got an SAE paper where they tested drilled vs plain rotors and found that in some cases they helped a little (and this was only when the pads were overheating, where better pads should have been used anyway), and in others they were worse. That's combined with much higher replacement costs and increased pad wear.
They are purely for style. If track use is in the cards, get plain rotors.
04-18-08, 03:52 PM
#29
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yes the drilled and slotted crack more often, which is why most people settle for either or, but not both, unless you just want to look JDM pimp tyte yo.
i never understood the whole drilled&slotted craze on street cars, all it does is raise the chance for cracking rotors and reducing the friction surface between the pad and rotor
what kind of setup are you (OP) running currently? going for something slightly bigger (i think someone already mentioned the actual difference) will not really reduce fade that much, the actual rotors and pads will have more of an effect. maybe SS brake lines as well
i never understood the whole drilled&slotted craze on street cars, all it does is raise the chance for cracking rotors and reducing the friction surface between the pad and rotor
what kind of setup are you (OP) running currently? going for something slightly bigger (i think someone already mentioned the actual difference) will not really reduce fade that much, the actual rotors and pads will have more of an effect. maybe SS brake lines as well
04-18-08, 07:02 PM
#31
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On the street it's not that big a deal, as you won't see the wild temp fluctuations that you do on the track, which is a large part of what causes the rotors to crack. They should last quite a while on the street provided you're driving more or less legally.
Drilled rotors are really just a solution to a problem that no longer exists (pad off-gassing), therefore they're pretty much useless.
It's not an either or thing with either drilled or slotted not cracking, but both cracking, it's the holes that are the problem, slots are relatively compromize free (they are only slightly more prone to cracking and have somewhat increased pad wear than plain rotors). A hole is a stress riser, no matter if it's chamfered, cast in place or whatever, it's still a stress riser, and that leads to the cracking.
Drilled rotors are really just a solution to a problem that no longer exists (pad off-gassing), therefore they're pretty much useless.
It's not an either or thing with either drilled or slotted not cracking, but both cracking, it's the holes that are the problem, slots are relatively compromize free (they are only slightly more prone to cracking and have somewhat increased pad wear than plain rotors). A hole is a stress riser, no matter if it's chamfered, cast in place or whatever, it's still a stress riser, and that leads to the cracking.
04-19-08, 09:28 PM
#33
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Yes I got drilled and slotted rotors on my FC but only because thay came with it.Used them at the track one day (15 min rums around button willow) with Hawk HP+ pads that came on the car with them , low initial bite but good modulation., I am sure when I make the switch to just slotted and HPS it will feel much better and better initial bite will be a bit better since the pads will heat up a bit faster..
I preff. Brembo Stock replacements with 5 slots no HOles.
I preff. Brembo Stock replacements with 5 slots no HOles.
04-20-08, 08:09 PM
#34
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Basically yes, none of them use drilled rotors. Go to any given race weekend and >99% of the brake rotors you'll see are plain rotors with a few slotted thrown in the mix, almost no-one will be using drilled, unless maybe that's their only option or something like that.
It is a well known, proven fact that drilled rotors are much, MUCH more likely to crack when used hard. Yes all rotors crack, but drilled crack WAY sooner. I've got an SAE paper where they tested drilled vs plain rotors and found that in some cases they helped a little (and this was only when the pads were overheating, where better pads should have been used anyway), and in others they were worse. That's combined with much higher replacement costs and increased pad wear.
They are purely for style. If track use is in the cards, get plain rotors.
It is a well known, proven fact that drilled rotors are much, MUCH more likely to crack when used hard. Yes all rotors crack, but drilled crack WAY sooner. I've got an SAE paper where they tested drilled vs plain rotors and found that in some cases they helped a little (and this was only when the pads were overheating, where better pads should have been used anyway), and in others they were worse. That's combined with much higher replacement costs and increased pad wear.
They are purely for style. If track use is in the cards, get plain rotors.
yes they do crack easier but not as easily as you are trying to make it sound. i have personally put drilled and slotted rotors through hell and back multiple times and the only the that has destroyed them so far is rocks from people in front of me hitting and breaking pieces off of them.
yes, they are in no way needed for street use unless you are going to more than legal speeds. but to reinerate (sp) once again, all you need for a street fc would be the TII brakes and some good pads such as Hawk HP+ which are also nice for autocross if you happen to go to a couple of them.
04-20-08, 09:15 PM
#35
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thats why about 90% of the people at my track use drilled and/or slotted rotors...
yes they do crack easier but not as easily as you are trying to make it sound. i have personally put drilled and slotted rotors through hell and back multiple times and the only the that has destroyed them so far is rocks from people in front of me hitting and breaking pieces off of them.
yes, they are in no way needed for street use unless you are going to more than legal speeds. but to reinerate (sp) once again, all you need for a street fc would be the TII brakes and some good pads such as Hawk HP+ which are also nice for autocross if you happen to go to a couple of them.
yes they do crack easier but not as easily as you are trying to make it sound. i have personally put drilled and slotted rotors through hell and back multiple times and the only the that has destroyed them so far is rocks from people in front of me hitting and breaking pieces off of them.
yes, they are in no way needed for street use unless you are going to more than legal speeds. but to reinerate (sp) once again, all you need for a street fc would be the TII brakes and some good pads such as Hawk HP+ which are also nice for autocross if you happen to go to a couple of them.
Maybe you've had good luck so far, maybe you're not punishing the brakes that hard, but that doesn't make them any less failure prone. Yes they won't crack on the first hard braking, but they will do so at least twice as fast as plain rotors. Combined with the much higher costs, only suckers run drilled rotors on track, as it'll cost you A LOT more in the long run for NO PERFORMANCE INCREASE at all.
04-21-08, 07:01 PM
#37
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Great rotor info. Here is a pic of fd calipers on my fc. They are physically bigger than the fc four pistons and don't seem different at all, but I could be wrong.
Here's the reason why I have the fd caliper: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=brake+caliper
I wouldn't go out and buy some. They just seem to be bigger and get in the way of wheels.
Here's the reason why I have the fd caliper: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=brake+caliper
I wouldn't go out and buy some. They just seem to be bigger and get in the way of wheels.
05-16-08, 01:07 AM
#38
Great rotor info. Here is a pic of fd calipers on my fc. They are physically bigger than the fc four pistons and don't seem different at all, but I could be wrong.
Here's the reason why I have the fd caliper: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=brake+caliper
I wouldn't go out and buy some. They just seem to be bigger and get in the way of wheels.
Here's the reason why I have the fd caliper: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=brake+caliper
I wouldn't go out and buy some. They just seem to be bigger and get in the way of wheels.
regular iron too, not ceramic or any exotic material on the brakes
10-25-13, 05:16 PM
#41
bunch of people on the keyboard talking worse case scenarios of slotted and drilled rotors
like everyone here is a die hard track racer, lol
and I just realized this is from 2008, lol
by the way - joel did create a front kit, never a marketable rear kit. If he did have a 4 wheel kit it would still be way over $1000 by the time you had it all together
like everyone here is a die hard track racer, lol
and I just realized this is from 2008, lol
by the way - joel did create a front kit, never a marketable rear kit. If he did have a 4 wheel kit it would still be way over $1000 by the time you had it all together
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