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FC3S 4 to 5 Lug Conversion Help

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Old Jul 23, 2013 | 04:39 PM
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Question FC3S 4 to 5 Lug Conversion Help

Been away from the forum for a while but decided to work on the 7 again. Finally got a hold of my buddies 5 lug mazda factory bbs wheels. I have 4 lug hubs and I am doing the 5 lug swap. I know everyone has posted stuff about this topic before but couldn't find a step by step guide or anything. Ive had a full set of 5 lug spindles with hubs sitting in the garage and now decided to install them since I have 5 lug wheels now. I started on the rear left side first, since I figured the rear would be more difficult with the axle and everything. I have the caliper, and all the spindle bolts off and the only thing that remains is the axle connecting to the hub. I'm assuming I have to take the hub nut off to remove the spindle assembly? Or is there something else i'm missing? Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks !
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Old Jul 24, 2013 | 12:20 PM
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Ive tried to remove the nut with an impact wrench and can't get it off. Is there something else i'm missing???
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Old Jul 24, 2013 | 12:36 PM
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Nope, it's just a regular right hand thread nut. It is tightened down to 200 ft-lbs, so it's going to take a bit of persuasion to get it loose.
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Old Jul 24, 2013 | 12:47 PM
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Thanks! So I prolly need to get a BIG breaker bar then? Can I retighten the nut with the impact wrench or use the breaker bar again?
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Old Jul 24, 2013 | 02:53 PM
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Breaker bar the first time, torque wrench the second. Do it with the emergency brake on to hold the hub or just have someone hold the brakes on.
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Old Jul 25, 2013 | 04:43 AM
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Sounds like u need a stronger impact lol
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Old Jul 25, 2013 | 10:51 AM
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Did you did un-crimp the nut before attempting to loosen it? Usually you can overpower it, but removal will be easier if you pry it up first.
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Old Jul 25, 2013 | 02:54 PM
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Thanks everyone. Used a 6ft breaker bar. It was super easy, used it again to retighten it. Piece of cake!
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Old Jul 25, 2013 | 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by RXSpeed16
Did you did un-crimp the nut before attempting to loosen it? Usually you can overpower it, but removal will be easier if you pry it up first.
No it wasn't crimped that bad. Just used it as a reference point when I retighted it
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Old Jul 25, 2013 | 02:57 PM
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Now to do the other side and then the front 2. The front is easier correct? Or do I need to look out for anything? Thanks
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Old Jul 25, 2013 | 06:47 PM
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The front should be easier by far. Just be sure to repack the bearings with grease before installing the hubs (or if you are feeling adventurous, replace the bearings). Only hard part about the fronts is removal of the brake calipers and the damnable screws that 'hold' the brake rotors to the hubs.

Also, since im unaware of any 5lug cars that used the single piston calipers (would be news to me), if you ARE upgrading to the 4pot calipers, be sure you are also using the related brake lines (or using the stainless braided and coated aftermarket stuff). The single piston caliper lines will not work (lengths are wrong) with the 4pot calipers.
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 01:29 PM
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Already upgraded the front to 4 piston. Thanks everyone! Going on vacation this weekend so I should hopefully have the conversion done by next weekend
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 12:36 PM
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Quick question, im finishing up the swap and I have to swap the rear calipers to accept the wider rotors. Just got threw rebuilding them. My brakes are already bled with my old calipers. My question is after I swap out the rear calipers and re-bleed can I just bleed the rear brakes or do I have to re-bleed the front also?
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 12:43 PM
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I think they are on different circuits so you should be able to leave them alone if you are only swapping rear calipers. Just watch the reservoir, if you let it go too low then you should do them all but if you are quick enough you should be fine.

And of course, test the brakes before you test the engine!
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 12:47 PM
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Ok that's what I was thinking too. Thanks farberio!
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