what to do? and answers from people that know what they are talking about please. I have all stock exhaust and all emissions stuff still on the car. 1988 GXL with a rebuild that is about a year old. last year i passed in the categories i failed this year by a point or so.

25/25 Test

HC ppm 279 (Allowed 174) failed

CO% 1.53 (Allowed 1.12) failed

NOx ppm 246 (Allowed 1258) passed

CO+ CO2% 15.1 (6.0 min) good



50/15 test

HC ppm 529 (Allowed 180) failed

CO% 1.93 (Allowed 1.01) failed

NOx ppm 459 (Allowed 1378) Passed

CO+ CO2% 14.6 (6.0 min) good

 

uhhhh.... do you even have cats on there!?!?!?!?

 

according to this i am running rich...but I found Ice mark saying that the variable resistor only effects the IDLE mixture, this wont help me if they are running the car on the dyno

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...06#post5131106

 

hailers may have something to say..... but if you are running rich, and have no way of leaning it out, then maybe you can create a vacuum leak to lean it up a bit..... hahaha.... I dunno.

 

Tune up.

Doesn't look too bad actually. Lol, you should see what some of the local guys test at when they first go as a 'baseline'. Just run the airpump directly to the cat split-air pipe and you'll be amazed at what you'll get away with. Hehe.

 

Find friends that work at the E-test place you go to... Then run their car with your info. Bang. Easy pass. hehehehe...

 

Until they get fired or caught. Which is what normally happens.

 

Did you get the engine hot prior to taking the test?
Rev the **** out of it before getting the test will allow the cat to run at it's most efficient.

Also, did you check your O2 sensor?
With the "driving" emissions test, the closed-loop function should kick in, and it's highly dependent on the O2 sensor.
Make sure the O2 sensor is connected!


-Ted

 

One question... Was your car nice and hot/warmed up when it got probed?

When ever an emissions test is done it is best to have the car at opperating temperaturs so the cats are working properly.

Also, just go over every thing, make sure your plugs are good, filters aren't clogged, and running good gas, not the cheap sht. And romp on it good once to clean it out before you pull into the inspection station.

You may even try some of the injector combustion chamber cleaners as well, just make sure you allow enough time to get that stuff out of the system before you sniff it again.


just a few ideas....

my car prior to the cat delete (stock) had 22 hc's at idle and 18 at 2,200-2,500k. I haven't had the chance to test it since the delete though.

 

funny thing about the cat getting nice and hot. IF you have to wait in line for a half hour, its not up to road temps is it. ******* emmisions

 

No, dont do that or HAILERS will chastise you and tell you that you will destroy the cat if you do! That is not the way mazda intended for our 20 year old rotaries to be set up! IF you don't use the ACV in all of it's glory, you will be going against the wishes of a mazda engineer that is in a retirement home somewhere as we speak!

Actually, yes I think it is fine to do that, I was just having fun.

 

I know Kevin, besides its only temp while you are doing the test!!

 

anyone else? please?

 

PM'd

 

Your not off by much, feed the air into the cat directly and you'll be fine

other than that, time to spend some money, or if you want you can try the acetone trick but, you should really know your s**t if your going to do that

 

Well covered by previous posts. I'll just add to the OP, that you mentioned factory stuff, and if original, your cats are about 19 years old, so that could explain your high HC. You can either follow the advice above (maintenance, o2 sensor, air pump hose to cat directly), which is good, or (if you still fail) do that and get a good aftermarket cat, make sure your air pump and emmissions system is working well, and follow the emmissions system checking procedure in the FSM (link in my sig.)

 

Check your O2 sensor, then most likely you need to replace your cat. Do these two items first before you try to 'cheat' the test by modifying your air supply or adding alcohol. If everything else is working, your results look just like a failed cat.

Here is a thread that I started for my emission testing complete with test results. It takes you through my entire test, fail, modify, test, fail, modify, test PASS process that I went through.

Your initial results look very similar to mine.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...missions+texas

Good Luck.

 

I failed too the first couple times, 2200 on hydro carbons

uses a couple bottles of HEET (basically methyll alcohol wich burns cleaner than gas) with about 1/4 tank of gas and then go through deq. my numbers were way higher than yours so i did that, and used a bottle of GUARENTEED TO PASS. should definitely work for you if it worked for me!

 

make sure you don't drive around after the test with just the HEET mixture fill the tank afterwords probably not good to run on alcohol. =)

 

I passed with a highly modded motor premixing with a new cat connected directly to an airpump.

Its really not hard at all to pass in Georgia. If you'd like I can help you get your car tuned up this weekend for another smog test.

 

high HC, high CO, low NOx. I believe there's a table in the FAQ on this.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...06#post5131106

"Rich Air Fuel Ratio, Air Injection"

Check your air pump and figure out if you're running rich and, if so, why.

 

I read your other thread, very useful. But, the part number you put is for a universal CAT that needs welding. Dont want to fuc% with that mess. But, I found this http://www.autozone.com/R,APP116765/...ductDetail.htm

Its part number 28956 if that link doesnt work.

It says its a direct bolt-in fit, but, also, i see in the picture the nipple for the air pump line doesnt have the flange with the 2 bolts like my current one has. I may look elsewhere for one that does...

And just for ***** and giggles a new cat from mazda is like $1600, yes, thats one thousand six-hundred dollars US

 

also, did you replace the Front Pre-Converter, Middle & Rear Main Converters, or just the main converter with the air pump hose nipple? beacuse advance auto offers this:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=145&PTSet=A

 

Hey, where are you located. I stay in the Gwinnett Area maybe you can help me get my car tuned so I can pass emissions.

 

The purpose of the S4's two front pre converters is to quickly light off. This reduces emissions more quickly after startup, then the main converter takes over the load. That situation is not a part of any emission test that I know of. My S5 was oem with only one pre converter. It was long gone when I bought the car. I think your exhaust will flow much better without the preconverters.

In TX, we also do not have a visual inspection, so there was no need for me to worry about replacing the preconverter. You may be in the same situation, you may not be.